HK USP Compact .40: Very Heavy DA trigger.

Note: **He already Owns this excellent gun**.
Whether or not he wants to ever try a lighter spring, I can't tell. He's a buddy I don't know very well.

His USP Compact's DA pull, at the start, is not too bad, but at the end of the pull, is clearly worse than any Polish P-64 (9x18) I've ever tried out, or any other handgun.

Can a lighter Wolff spring allow his gun to be both very reliable, but also approximate the 10 # DA pull on my .40 cal. Sig P229 and brand-new M 11 A1?
 
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Yes. Try a Wolff 12 lb. or 10 lb. hammer spring. Also try a HK light firing pin block spring if you're getting a lot of stacking at the end of the pull.
 
HKs have heavy, bad trigger pulls. That's just the way they are.

If you want a better trigger pull, buy just about any other gun for half the cost such as a CZ or Beretta.
 
Or since the gentleman already owns the pistol he could do what I suggested for $20.

https://www.gunsprings.com/HK%20-%20HECKLER%20&%20KOCH/USP/cID1/mID26/dID136#166

https://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Firing-Pin-Block-Spring-New-Style-Light-198p1955.htm

You could also throw in a light trigger return spring too, though be aware that installing those is a pain in the butt. Really. There is a tool you can buy that helps, but I also cut lengths of a very thin straw, say from an aerosol can, and add them to the legs of the spring to make it easier.

https://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Light-Trigger-Return-Spring-HK-Pistols-198p2081.htm

https://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Trigger-Return-Spring-Tool-For-All-HK-Pistols-p16031.htm
 
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Thanks for the links and other info. Will ask him to read this.

One thing which might make lots of people uneasy about changing springs can be total unfamiliarity with the procedures, or the idea of unknown gun smith costs to do the work.
 
To change the hammer spring you drive out one roll pin at the base of the grip. A piece of polymer slides out letting the spring fall out too. All you do then is replace the spring, align the polymer block, and put the roll pin back in. The hardest part is holding the polymer block in while driving the pin, but I usually brace the pistol and use something like a pin punch to hold the polymer block in. The roll pin is a light friction fit and doesn’t take much effort. It is literally the easiest hammer spring change of any hammer fired pistol I own.

To change the firing pin block spring you drive out one roll pin in the slide. This allows the firing pin to slide out the back of the slide. As you do this put a piece of tape or just use your hand to cover the firing pin block. Then remove the firing pin block and the spring (they will fall out freely) and just be careful to cover them so the stock firing pin block spring doesn’t go flying. Then place the new spring in the milled hole, put in the firing pin block, and insert the firing pin. An alternative is to put the spring in the block first, but I found it would sometimes better be this way. A smart modification is to use a dab of greases to keep the spring in the block. You want the firing pin to be oriented so that when driving the roll pin in the pin will align with a notch in the firing pin. There is also a corresponding cutout for the firing pin in the firing pin block. With the firing pin inserted far enough it will hold the block in. Then simply drive the pin back in.

In over a dozen HKs I found that despite their Teutonic heritage they are some of the simplest pistols to work on and their parts were always actually interchangeable, a fact I took for granted when then working on SIGs and CZs. There are also video guides and text guides with pictures on the HK forums. Seriously, there is no reason to pay for a smith for the parts replacements I just listed.


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Yeah the hammer spring change is super simple on HKs. FPBS was pretty easy too.

I did a lighter hammer spring and new lighter firing pin block spring on my P30L and it has a wonderful DA trigger pull on it now at about 8.5LBs. SA trigger pull was always excellent even out of the box.

HK Pro has an excellent step by step tutorial with pictures on doing the firing pin block spring and trigger rebound spring in the link below.

http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-reference-library/40627-p2000-sk-uspc-lem-trigger-job-part-1-a.html

http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-reference-library/ --- HK Pro reference library
 
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A lot of the newer HKs come with the lighter firing pin block springs in my experience, but certainly the older USPs did not and even some of the P series pistols too. Compared to the older firing pin block spring there is a notable reduction in stacking. The springs can make a world of difference and are very simple to do.


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My P2000 V3 trigger variant has a lighter DA pull than my P30 V3 had before I had it worked on. I practice staging the DA trigger so I feel that I can shoot it pretty well. I had my P2000 out to the range yesterday and I’m very happy with the way it shoots in both SA and DA.

I think the P2000 and P30 are two very intelligently designed and extremely well built, reliable and accurate firearms!
 
You should have bought a P7 ! My P7s have a 3.5 and a 4.5 trigger , smooth with clean break ! Always reliable with no special springs ! :eek:

There is a lot more to it than springs . Smooth makes a big difference !
 
mete: said:
You should have bought a P7...

You’re not kidding! I can barely remember the last time I saw an HK P7M8 for sale years back and the asking price for a used one back then was about a grand!
 
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