To change the hammer spring you drive out one roll pin at the base of the grip. A piece of polymer slides out letting the spring fall out too. All you do then is replace the spring, align the polymer block, and put the roll pin back in. The hardest part is holding the polymer block in while driving the pin, but I usually brace the pistol and use something like a pin punch to hold the polymer block in. The roll pin is a light friction fit and doesn’t take much effort. It is literally the easiest hammer spring change of any hammer fired pistol I own.
To change the firing pin block spring you drive out one roll pin in the slide. This allows the firing pin to slide out the back of the slide. As you do this put a piece of tape or just use your hand to cover the firing pin block. Then remove the firing pin block and the spring (they will fall out freely) and just be careful to cover them so the stock firing pin block spring doesn’t go flying. Then place the new spring in the milled hole, put in the firing pin block, and insert the firing pin. An alternative is to put the spring in the block first, but I found it would sometimes better be this way. A smart modification is to use a dab of greases to keep the spring in the block. You want the firing pin to be oriented so that when driving the roll pin in the pin will align with a notch in the firing pin. There is also a corresponding cutout for the firing pin in the firing pin block. With the firing pin inserted far enough it will hold the block in. Then simply drive the pin back in.
In over a dozen HKs I found that despite their Teutonic heritage they are some of the simplest pistols to work on and their parts were always actually interchangeable, a fact I took for granted when then working on SIGs and CZs. There are also video guides and text guides with pictures on the HK forums. Seriously, there is no reason to pay for a smith for the parts replacements I just listed.
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