High tech greases...which is better?

I dunno. For me the white Lubriplate engine assembly grease I already had in the garage is good enough. If I didn't have that I'd probably use the same #2 grease I use for tie rod ends and u-joints.

I'm sure either of the ones you mention will work just fine. Get the one that's less expensive.
 
I've used the TW25B, it comes or did come, with Sig firearms. I was impressed with how well it persisted on a surface, even after apparently wiping it off. No experience with the other product.
 
High tech ? there are a number of greases designed for high pressure applications such as hinge pins on O/U shotguns where those pressures tend to wipe off the lube .These lubes also used on early stainless steel guns before they understood galling and used proper alloys. I'm most familiar with RIG+P+ .
 
I'm not yet convinced that any "weapons grease" is actually built for the firearms market. We're such a small subset of the lube industry that it simply doesn't make sense to formulate a lube for guys who buy it by the ounce. I buy my grease at Auto-Zone. For the most part, I buy my oil there too.
 
I use Military issue weapons grease in the OD can for anything that calls for it (M1 Garand, Carbine etc) and Ed's Red for all else. Rod
 
I use TW25B myself, but have used plain old white lithium grease quite a bit in the past, and keep a tube of it in my kit in case I ever need it.

The TW25B is lower viscosity, it goes on easier in smaller amounts and stays put.

No experience with the other one, but they all work adequately I imagine.
 
I have the EWL and have used it on my semi-auto rifles for a little while now with no issues. But not long enough to recommend it to my friends just yet.

I have used a 60% moly grease with very satisfactory results. The nice thing about moly is that it is a high pressure lube that imbeds itself into the metal.

Hobie
 
I have used Rig for over 25 years on all fishing and firearms. It has worked great so far so why change. For oil applications I use Mobile One Snythetic or good old 3-in-1. Ok - at 68 you might say I am set in my ways. Dan
 
You know, I think people are overthinking the whole issue of cleaners and lubricants. The mention of Rig above makes me say this. I used to use it too, back in the '60s, until I ran out and so I bought something else that was handy that also worked just fine. Has anyone had a weapon failure attributable to a particular cleaner or lube, assuming reasonable level of care? Has anyone experienced corrosion attributable to a specific cleaner or lube, assuming reasonable level of care? I haven't.
 
Has anyone had a weapon failure attributable to a particular cleaner or lube, assuming reasonable level of care? Has anyone experienced corrosion attributable to a specific cleaner or lube, assuming reasonable level of care? I haven't.
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That's not the point, but yes, I've had failures as far as corrosion goes where I've quit using products in favor of what I consider better products-Outers was one. Depends on what you want. Sure, use Sweets or Shooter's Choice if you really want disgusting stench. Personally I'd rather use RIG-2 or Hoppe's Elite and clean my guns anywhere in the house. Or CLP, which is easy on the nose as well. As far as grease goes, RIG+P stays where it's put and you use very little. I don't even know how people can run out; they must slather it on with a putty knife.
 
I've had failures as far as corrosion goes where I've quit using products in favor of what I consider better products-Outers was one.
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It may just be the way it's worded, but are you saying the product you thought was better wound up causing corrosion?

I think the bottom line for the OP is to use whatever grease HE feels will provide the protection and lubrication he needs. Either of the ones he mentioned will no doubt do this. Which one is "better" is immaterial as either should get the job done until the gun is cleaned and the grease re-applied.

Some of us haven't bought into the specialty lubricant market for firearms and that's okay too. As long as our firearms continue to function and we enjoy shooting them everyone's happy.
 
SLiP 2000 EWG was designed for chain guns and has an extremely wide operational temperature range (-100F to +750F). It is a fully synthetic grease and not a petroleum product. I use it on all of my semi-automatic firearms including: shotguns, pistols, and rifles. If it slides = grease.

Use an extremely thin coating to the point you almost can't see it. I apply it with a cotton tip swab on the slide and frame rails so thin you have to turn the gun at an angle to a work light to see the coating. On pistols, rack the slide and wipe any excess off the back of the frame / slide. I've run several 1911's to the 2,000 round point with no additional lubrication and no malfunctions. The guns run hot (100F+ ambient), cold (10F ambient), in dust, blowing dirt etc.

The nice thing about grease is that it doesn't get thrown off the gun when it heats up - I no longer end up with little black splotches on shirts and jackets like I've gotten with oil being thrown off the gun.

Despite the nay sayers and Mobil 1 users (and why DON'T ya'll use Castrol synthetic??), I've never had a problem with grease, and for cost, my Lord, I run $1,000+ guns shooting $100's of dollars in ammunition. In comparison, gun grease is inexpensive as you use such tiny amounts of it. I figure I have enough EWG to last about 20 years between the syringe applicator and the 1.5 oz container.

Lubricants are CHEAP despite the spendthrift approaches found on gun forums. Buy a couple of different kinds including Lubriplate or whatever, run them all for awhile and make up your own mind.

I've even tried John Deere Cornhead grease, and Deere NGL 00 harvester grease.

Use whatever you feel comfortable using and have proven will run under any condition in which you use your gun. If that's some home made formula of cooking oil, transmission fluid, Marvel Mystery Oil, Mobil One, and bacon fat - whatever...if it works and you like it that's all that counts.
 
It may just be the way it's worded, but are you saying the product you thought was better wound up causing corrosion?
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Nope, Outers was allowing corrosion to appear, switched to Hoppe's, no more problems. (late 60s)
 
I was impressed with how well it persisted on a surface, even after apparently wiping it off
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There are a lot of lubricants that do this ^

I've used GP packing grease on my Glock, completely wiped it down with cloth. And yet when I hold the slide to my nose I can still smell the packing grease even though I can't see it, and I can still feel it on the metal no matter how many times I wipe down the slide.

I would'n't call any of the stuff discussed in this thread so far - High-Tech greases.

One high-tech grease is Krytox from DuPont. Early versions of it had almost no protective qualities to it. If you have a highly corrosion resistant coating on your firearm already - like NP3+, Cerakote, Poly-T2 or something similar, then Krytox is a great lube to use and it is has SUPER lubricity. There are a couple new blends out that are mixed with petroleum grease and I think those probably do protect from corrosion.

I'll have to call them again...


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