help with three new sights for a lever gun

O

oley55

New member
has anyone here had experience with replacing all the sights on their lever gun?

just got a new tang site, new rear leaf folding sight, and new front site.

got all three cause I wanted to add the tang for these old eyes at 100 yards, but wanted to retain the rear leaf sight for short range work.

Rossi R92 38/357, 24" octagon barrel. Marples #65 tang sight, Marples folding leaf, and .375" tall Marples 1/16" brass bead.

for the purpose of sighting these in should I concentrate of the rear leaf and front site first, or tang and front sight and then adjust the rear leaf to lineup between?
 
for the purpose of sighting these in should I concentrate of the rear leaf and front site first, or tang and front sight and then adjust the rear leaf to lineup between?
Click to expand...
It won't matter what order you use since they are totally independent.
You adjust each rear sight as if it's the only one
 
that makes sense. guess I was worried I'd end up with one of the rear sights being so far one way or the other that I would have next to no adjustment left for real wind adjustments.

I think I will first concentrate on the tang sight, drifting the front sight so that I'm as close to mechanical zero as possible. then I can tackle the rear folding sight. it is intended for short range use and chasing the wind shouldn't be an issue.

thanks for the response.
 
The tang sight won't move, so start w/ the tang sight and adjust the front. Then the folding sight.


Actually, you can move a tang sight, but it involves shimming one side or the other.
 
The tang sight won't move, so start w/ the tang sight and adjust the front. Then the folding sight.
Click to expand...
The sight has both windage and elevation adjustments:

Marble's Tang Peep Sight Rossi 65, 1892 Steel Blue
www.midwayusa.com/product/140573
$126.99 · In stock
Machined steel rear sight is fully adjustable for windage and elevation, with each positive click equaling approximately 4/10" movement at 100 yards.
Click to expand...

I'd center the front sight and do all initial adjustments from the rear

Then if there isn't enough, you can always offset the front as needed
 
sighting in range results

hit the range today and started with the tang. after I had the tang sighted in for 50 yards, I flipped up my Marples #95 folding rear sight and it completely blocked view of the front sight. I adjusted the leaf sight as low as possible and ended up 1/2" high at 50 yards. I suspect if I shoot some hot factory rounds it will end up being way too high with no more adjustment available.

the front sight is a Marples 1/16" bead, .375" high. A .410" sight will probably work better. But then again, I do not have a great deal of elevation travel left on the Marples #65 tang sight. the tang sight has 92 clicks elevation stop to stop. I am on target at 100 yds with about 35 clicks elevation available, or approximately 14" if 4/10" per click is correct.

Anyone know the formula to calculate the difference going from .375" to .410" with sights 29.75" apart? Can't find anything that doesn't ask for the current height of the rear sight and that's pretty hard to measure on a tang sight.
 
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(.410-.375)/29.75in = x/100yds (convert the yds to in)

So about 4.2" change in impact at 100yds.
 
Tang& leaf

I have a 92 in 25/20 set up with old lyman tang and Marble folding Buck horn.
Front is Marble 410, Sherd bead. I ended up this way exactly because of the
same problem you have. Folder sighted at 40yds, tang at 100yds. Rig gives
me just enough clearance to see over folding sight. I put front on dead center,
tang has windage.
 
(.410-.375)/29.75in = x/100yds (convert the yds to in) So about 4.2" change in impact at 100yds.

thanks, that means I may still have about 10" of elevation left. that should work unless I decide to try tossing 38spl out to 100yds. that might be a little iffy.
 
The old school solution was the Beech Combination sight.
It is a front sight that has a blade and a hooded bead,and can be flipped to give one or the other.

The blade was the shorter sight,and was used with the open sight.The rear open sight could be drifted for windage,and by means of the notched elevator or filing the blade,sight in could be accomplished with zero compromise.

When the Beech was shifted to the bead and hood configuration,the front sight was taller.This raised the line of sight above the open sight.The open sight notch was out of the sight picture.

So now the rear peep,front hood,and centered bead could be viewed as its own independent sight picture.Windage was drifting the front sight,and elevation was in the tang peep.

That's how they solved it long ago.

BTW,with the Beech,there is no requirement the open rear sight fold.

Original and repro Beech combinations can be had,though they are expensive.
 
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