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Help with SN on my SW 38
- Thread starter Conductorman
- Start date
Jim Watson
New member
The true serial number is on the butt of the revolver.
We also need to know which S&W it is.
Overall pictures will help.
We also need to know which S&W it is.
Overall pictures will help.
Conductorman
New member
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqslfY1t71cdxlAemriNS76XxKD6
The number 801xxx p on the butt of the gun and 801xxx
on the cylinder on my 38 pistol.
The number 801xxx p on the butt of the gun and 801xxx
on the cylinder on my 38 pistol.
I would guess 1941 or 1942. This was marketed as the Military & Police.
Note that this revolver is chambered for the .38 Smith & Wesson cartridge -- NOT the much more common .38 Special. Many revolvers from this era were converted to shoot .38 Special and many of those were converted VERY crudely.
The proper .38 S&W ammunition is much more difficult to find (you can order it online but most stores don't carry it) and it will cost more money than you may expect.
The pearl or faux-pearl stocks are not original. This revolver also has the older style "long action." The 40916 number is an inside assembly number that was used during manufacture and has no relevance now.
I am curious about the "p" suffix you see at the end of the serial number, that's not something I'm familiar with and it is not shown in your pictures.
Note that this revolver is chambered for the .38 Smith & Wesson cartridge -- NOT the much more common .38 Special. Many revolvers from this era were converted to shoot .38 Special and many of those were converted VERY crudely.
The proper .38 S&W ammunition is much more difficult to find (you can order it online but most stores don't carry it) and it will cost more money than you may expect.
The pearl or faux-pearl stocks are not original. This revolver also has the older style "long action." The 40916 number is an inside assembly number that was used during manufacture and has no relevance now.
I am curious about the "p" suffix you see at the end of the serial number, that's not something I'm familiar with and it is not shown in your pictures.
Conductorman
New member
https://1drv.ms/b/s!AqslfY1t71cdxlJ3Np61r-CSoee3
Here is a picture
Here is a picture
Jim Watson
New member
I thought it looked kind of shiny for a wartime revolver.
The lanyard loop stud was cut off flush when it was reblued.
The "P" is a common proof mark on 1911s and rifles, maybe this revolver went through a shop that just stamped it on everything routinely.
The lanyard loop stud was cut off flush when it was reblued.
The "P" is a common proof mark on 1911s and rifles, maybe this revolver went through a shop that just stamped it on everything routinely.
Conductorman
New member
I’m confused what model gun do you think it is ? Do you think it’s worth much?
Conductorman
New member
How much do you think it’s worth.
ammo.crafter
New member
38S&W vs 38Spcl
Have a competent smith go over your gun. Well worth the investment.
As to s&w and Special, the 38S&W has a cartridge length of 1.240"
the 38Spcl has a cartridge length of 1.550"
If you reload you may be able to duplicate factory ammo for this weapon.
Have a competent smith go over your gun. Well worth the investment.
As to s&w and Special, the 38S&W has a cartridge length of 1.240"
the 38Spcl has a cartridge length of 1.550"
If you reload you may be able to duplicate factory ammo for this weapon.
I am -no- authority on this but I believe the "poorly converted" gun simply had the chamber reamed for length... the net result is a revolver that is basically safe (mostly safe...?) for shooting .38 Special however accuracy can be less than optimal as the bullet diameter of .38 Special is undersized. The bigger issue is that .38 Special brass swells in the slightly larger diameter chambers and the brass can or will get wrecked.
All of this is moot if your revolver is original and not altered.
All of this is moot if your revolver is original and not altered.