topbreakfreek
New member
i am really looking for a drawing or diagram on how to strip my IJ .38 top break to repair or change my trigger return spring. does anyone know where i can aquire such drawings or instructions.?
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help with repair
- Thread starter topbreakfreek
- Start date
I assume the spring is broken, a common problem with those guns.
First off, I recommend you forget it. Most gunsmiths won't tackle those guns because they are such a PITA to work on that it doesn't pay.
If you insist, you will need to have a couple of good drift punches, one preferably with a hollow head to use on the pins. Then drift out the trigger guard pins left to right, being careful not to lose the sear and sear spring. Do NOT remove the trigger pin. Now look at the trigger return spring. It will be one of two types, either a flat spring with a hole in one end and held by a screw, or a bent wire spring. You will probably be able to order either from Gun Parts Corp (www.gunpartscorp.com), or the flat spring from Wolff.
Either may have to be fitted for length, width, or both. If you have to grind the spring, make sure you don't heat it and lose the temper. Losing your own temper is another story, and you may have to take a lot of "calm" pills to keep your nearest and dearest from sending for the guys in white coats.
When (if!) you are ready to reassemble, you will need a slave pin to capture the sear and sear spring. This is a pin slightly less diameter than the rear trigger guard spring, and just as long as the trigger guard is wide. You insert the sear and spring in the slot in the rear of the trigger guard and insert the slave pin to hold them while you install the trigger guard. Insert the front guard pin first, then put the rear of the guard in place and drive in the rear pin, forcing the slave pin out the other side.
If you used well fitting punches to remove the pins, and a plastic hammer to install them, you might not flatten or distort the pins.
Lots of luck!
Jim
First off, I recommend you forget it. Most gunsmiths won't tackle those guns because they are such a PITA to work on that it doesn't pay.
If you insist, you will need to have a couple of good drift punches, one preferably with a hollow head to use on the pins. Then drift out the trigger guard pins left to right, being careful not to lose the sear and sear spring. Do NOT remove the trigger pin. Now look at the trigger return spring. It will be one of two types, either a flat spring with a hole in one end and held by a screw, or a bent wire spring. You will probably be able to order either from Gun Parts Corp (www.gunpartscorp.com), or the flat spring from Wolff.
Either may have to be fitted for length, width, or both. If you have to grind the spring, make sure you don't heat it and lose the temper. Losing your own temper is another story, and you may have to take a lot of "calm" pills to keep your nearest and dearest from sending for the guys in white coats.
When (if!) you are ready to reassemble, you will need a slave pin to capture the sear and sear spring. This is a pin slightly less diameter than the rear trigger guard spring, and just as long as the trigger guard is wide. You insert the sear and spring in the slot in the rear of the trigger guard and insert the slave pin to hold them while you install the trigger guard. Insert the front guard pin first, then put the rear of the guard in place and drive in the rear pin, forcing the slave pin out the other side.
If you used well fitting punches to remove the pins, and a plastic hammer to install them, you might not flatten or distort the pins.
Lots of luck!
Jim
topbreakfreek
New member
thanx
is there any chance that the recoil of the gun will reset the trigger return spring?
is there any chance that the recoil of the gun will reset the trigger return spring?