Help with refinishing S&W Wood Grip Panels

The original wood finish on the used S&W M65 was pretty worn so I took it off. Now I can't find a way to get the original color back. it was a orangish brown color, now the wood is dark brown after I stripped it and cleaned it. I'm considering bleeching the wood and then restaining, but I want to check with you guys first. What finish did S&W use on their factory grips, and how can I duplicate it? Thanks.

The materials I have at hand are Minwax stain and polyurethan clearcoats, Tru-Oil and BLO.
 
Beyond bleaching, nothing, The wood under the finish has aged and with that ageing comes a nice cocoa brown walnut color. I personally prefer the cocoa color of older walnut. I have used Waterlox tung oil finish, that I hand rubbed in until it just filled the grain, about 4 or 5 evenings for about a 20 min time period each side. This leaves a nice cocoa color and a matte finish.
I have a S&W 65 that I put a cut down set of target grips on. I trimmed them to the bottom of the grip frame and stripped the ugly oil soaked finish. The grips have a nice cocoa color and they contrast very nicely with the SS finish of the 65.
 
Be advised, Tung oil has been linked to some nasty health problems. On wood or leather, I use the "Clear Guard" or "Clear Magic" protectant liquid spray you can get a Pep Boys. It's oil based and is amazing. Make sure not to use anything water based like Armor-All.
 
Boiled linseed oil is the only way to go...Rub it on once a day for a week...once a week for a month...once a month for a year...and then yearly after that... Deep, nice and nasty chemical free.
 
...and just to confuse the issue completely--I use Tru-Oil. I think S&Ws' finishing techniques changed over the years so use what suits you. Anything beats dinged, oil soaked stocks (except oversized Pachmayers).
 
I know the wood in these is different, but this what tung oil will do for a pair of dull, faded Ruger GP100 inserts.
 

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If you decide to go the Tung Oil route check to see what you really have. If it says something like "Contains Pure Tung Oil" there is no telling what's in there.
 
As noted, "tung oil" can cover quite a few things. I've used Formbys' Tung Oil and Tru Oil on grips, rifle stocks and canes, with good results. The formbys' is formulated for furniture finish, of course, but has been durable on the handles of canes where it gets heavy abuse and exposure to sweat. Tru Oil is a formulation based on tung oil, but contains brighteners and penetrants which do more, IMO, to highlight good woodgrain. Most of the result, once you pick a good oil, is in the technique. Sand the wood smooth. Strippers and finish removers aren't necessary, and can dull many woods. Apply your oil with a fingertip, spreading the smallest amount you can get on a fingertip over the largest area possible. Set them aside, and let them dry until that coat is hard. Then, steel wool them down with 0000 steel wool, to the bare wood (there will still be oil there, just won't seem like it). Repeat this until you are satisfied with the finish. Usually 4 to 8 coats will provide a good finish, and show off the grain well. Top the oil finish with one or two coats of a good, hard paste furniture wax (Johnsons' Paste is excellent), and you have a finish that will last, and can easily be touched up if nicked, dinged or worn. I've seen some really exotic grains continue to light up and show additional "fireworks" up to 40 coats of this application, so the final can be up to how patient you are, and the quality of the wood.
 
HEALTH PROBLEMS???

Formby's does not contain as much tung oil as Minwax, and produces a yellower finish.

Both Formby's and MinWax contain thinners and varnishes and only a relatively small percentage of "pure tung oil." Thinners and varnishes are hazardous to your health.

100% tung oil can also be purchased at most hardware/paint stores. Is 100% tung oil associated with health problems??? I never heard that. Mostly, though, 100% tungoil is thinned with something hazardous.

Regards.
 
Thanks for all the great insights, I'm going with Tru Oil for this project. Just a thought, if it doesn't work out, what will strip Tru Oil or Tung oil? Just sand it smooth?
 
Most of the factory finishes have been applied hot. This, and anything you add in refinishing, is deep in the wood. Chemical strippers that can get it out also do more harm to the wood than can be corrected in pieces that small. Sanding is the best - just take it down to the grain, and start all over.
 
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