help with reassembly of old Chief Special

kmicic

Inactive
I took off the sideplate on my newly acquired Chief Special Airlite, and now after I put it together the cylinder stop does not work (the stop does not come up and the cylinder always rotates).

Here is what it looks like now:

Airlite-action_1.jpg


Airlite-action_2.jpg


Airlite-action_3.jpg



I have detailed pictures of the action posted here:

pic1 hi-res - 1.3MB

pic 2 hi-res 1.3 MB

pic 3 hi-res 0.9MB

Any pointers on how to get it back to work?
Thanks for looking.
 
There is supposed to be a spring pushing the cylinder stop piece up. It's located near the forwardmost screw.

Amazing how the even old Smiths have all those machine marks! Nice gun.
 
Offhand, I'd say your S&W would work a lot better with the bolt spring put back in. Did you have any "left over parts" that look like a spring? I can't see any spring pushing on the bolt to keep it in position.

The bolt spring is small. It is usually forward of the lower bolt extension that is below the stud and typically at an angle running downwards from left to right.

See Attached. The yellow angled lines illustrate the approximate position.
 

Attachments

  • Airlite-action_3.jpeg
    Airlite-action_3.jpeg
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First of all, thanks for your thoughts guys. I did figure out what the problem was after taking the gun completely apart (what you see on the pictures was as far as I went so far).

The bolt spring was attached properly. However, the cylinder stop (I have a feeling I'm not calling it by its right name) has a tendency to misalign along the sights axis on my gun. Once the misalignment happens, the cylinder stop will not fit through the hole. This may seem trivial, but I did push it around before I made the original post, and realigning it is not trivial. Once realigned, the cylinder stop will go through the hole and stay there, retained by the bolt spring. However, if I attempt any firing before putting the side plate back on, the cylinder stop will immediately go out of alignment again. Once the side plate is on, it fits very tightly into the frame and holds the cylinder stop in place.

Darn, that was a tough one, although quite a learning experience.

Ok, so now that I have it all there (and no leftover parts hehe), maybe someone could help me with another issue. This is an airlight, and not only that, but it's one of the very early ones with an aluminum cylinder. I heard that S&W has recalled those almost right away, because they tended to burst. Should I replace the cylinder with steel one before attempting to shoot it? The gun has been shot at least some, before I bought it. Of course I'm not thinking of shooting any +P ammo, I was thinking of just trying out the standard 130 grain Winchester load.

As far as you can tell, is there a possibility that the titanium cylinder from a new Airweight would fit as a replacement?

Just to make this clear, unless I heard otherwise I was just going to play it safe and not shoot anything until I got the cylinder replaced, and I was going to order the steel replacement and not risk havingto return a titanium one. Come Monday I'm hoping for a nice chat with S&W historian, Mr. Roy Jinks.
 
Your gun is worth a bit of money as is. Just buy another Airweight and retire the alloy cylindered gun as a safe queen.
 
An Airweight with the original alloy cylinder can be worth double the value of one with the steel cylinder. I wouldn't convert or modify it. Either stash it away (they are recommended not to be fired) or put it up for sale (collectors will probably jump all over it if it's in decent condition) and buy another one with a steel cylinder to fire.
 
Well, it's far from pristine condition on the outside, so I don't think it'd interest any collectors, at least not the ones that pay premiums. Advice to shoot modern guns instead of old clunkers is very sound, but I'm limited to C&Rs in what I can legally own, so a 360 S&W will have to wait. As it is, finding a C&R Airweight was like a 4 leaf clover, so you'd have to pry it from my cold dead hands now heheh.
 
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