Help with new model 27

M

makarov

New member
I just took my new used model 27 out and ran 50 rounds of .38's through it. It shoots nice small groups. It does have a couple of things that bother me though.

1. Cylinder gap is very tight. The rear of the forcing cone area looks like the cylinder is dragging on one side (it is shiny on one side and not on the other. It appears to be just one area on the cylinder as I cycle the gun around while holding it up to the light. Nothing seems to be bent, but we are talking very small amounts here. Pulling back the hammer on that one seems to take more effort too.

2. Should the number on the yoke match the number on the frame? Serial number is N4484xx - actually I think I just answered my own question since the number under the grip is the same as on the yoke 81391 - I would have thought the numbers would all be the same. What year was this made?


Here is a pic. BTW I paid $300 for it. I think I got a good deal even if it has a minor problem. I am not opposed to having S&W look at it, but would like to know if anyone can tell me what they thing might be the problem. Timing is on. I looked down the barrel while shining a light across the gap. Just that one part of the cylinder seems to be dragging.
 

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The N448 is the serial number.

The other numbers are floor assembly numbers that have no relation to the serial number.

The N448 should also be on the butt, which is where the serial number on revolves of this vintage was located.
 
Yup, it is on the butt end of the grip frame too, just easier to read it off the inside of the yoke. The factory target grips cover the end of the frame. Anyone tell me what year it was made? Is there a resource on the net that has the dates by serial number range?
 
makarov:

I have a model 28 that does the same thing. Irritating, but I have never done anything about it. Yet. Maybe someone here will shed some light on it for us.
 
I had the same problem, but I had my barrel replaced. The guy has it so tight that it actually touches the cylinder. I sent it back to the S&W Performance Center to have that taken care of and to have an action job done. I would have sent it to Smith in the first place but they didn't have a new barrel for it. They said they didn't stock spare parts for the old blue guns. Another brillant business decision.
 
I may just leave it as is and shoot it. If I keep the cylinder and rear of the forcing cone clean it cycles pretty well. This one has the wide trigger and hammer - feels great single action, but the trigger is a little wide for double-action. Again, I'm mostly am going to use it for target plinking so single action is mostly how I will probably shoot it. Sure does feel good in the hand. I really like the feel of the N frames. I don't think this will be the last one I own...
 
I got a 27-2 that's pretty tight too, REAL tight in fact.


The barrely/cylinder gap appears to be just fine and dandy when cycling from chamber to chamber. I think the "rub marks" on the barrel forcing cone and the face of the cylinder is coming from opening and closing the cylinder, if it is allowed to come forward even a few thousandths it's gonna rub until it the yoke/crane meet together and everything is closed.



I had something similar happen on my 29-3 but only those were actual GOUGES in the front of the cylinder because S&W was kind enough to leave a sharp burr on the outside edge of the forcing cone. Under normal loading with muzzle down as you closed the cylinder, the thing would smack right against that burr. At first I thought the darned thing was spitting lead and jacket material, until I gave it a real good cleaning and nearly sliced myself on that burr.



Enjoy yer 27, I haven't even taken mine out shooting yet. Only had it a week and I'm chompin at the bit, might go out this weekend or I might wait till a friend comes home so we can go out shooting together.
 
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