I am in the market for a new pair of binoculars. I am pretty set on the Leupold line. Most likely the Olympic ones. I realize that Swaro or Leica is top of the line, but I can't justify that much money. I have used a pair of Pentax 8X24 for about 12 years and I'm pleased with them. I just want something that is a little brighter and better in low light. I am considering the Leupold Olympics in either 8X42 or 10X50. Most of my hunting is from a stand. Some of the fields that I hunt offer viewing up to 500 yds. with some looking over cut overs. Which power do you recommend? Should I get the 10X since I already have the 8X24's? Which will be brighter in low light, the 10X50 or 8X42 or will they be about the same? Please give me the pro's and con's of each. I am not interested in Nikon's as I had a very bad experiance with their customer service witha Red Dot scope, so they are out of the question!
Help w/Bino Decision!
- Thread starter TrpD345
- Start date
Nothing wrong with the Olympics, they do fine. Go for the 8x42, they will give a good picture and you can hold them steady. Its generally accepted that for hand holding particularly with out a hand rest that beyond 7-8 power it is very difficult to get a steady clear picture and you dont usually have time to keep guessing when you are looking at a deer. You will like them and they should serve you well. Due to the nature of the optics the 8 power will actually be slightly brighter.
ksstargazer
New member
binoculars
The larger the objective, the brighter the image. The 10x50 should give you the brighter image. I have a 20x70 NcStar that on a moonlit night makes the landscape look like daytime. I got the binoculars at the Tulsa gunshow and only paid $70. Excellent optics. Since I am an amateur astronomer, I have a lot of experience locating objects with binoculars and telescopes. The higher powers do take getting used to but once you have experience they are no harder to use than lower power. If you do not use binoculars often then I would suggest keeping the magnification down to around 7 or 8.
The larger the objective, the brighter the image. The 10x50 should give you the brighter image. I have a 20x70 NcStar that on a moonlit night makes the landscape look like daytime. I got the binoculars at the Tulsa gunshow and only paid $70. Excellent optics. Since I am an amateur astronomer, I have a lot of experience locating objects with binoculars and telescopes. The higher powers do take getting used to but once you have experience they are no harder to use than lower power. If you do not use binoculars often then I would suggest keeping the magnification down to around 7 or 8.
Johnny Guest
Moderator in Memoriam
Changing forums
This is a good thread, but it properly belongs in the Gear and Accessories forum.
I'll leave a re-direct so it won't get lost.
Best,
Johnny
This is a good thread, but it properly belongs in the Gear and Accessories forum.
I'll leave a re-direct so it won't get lost.
Best,
Johnny
Ksstargazer "The larger the objective, the brighter the image"
To get an idea of relative brightness between binos or scopes divide the lens dia by magnification and you will see that 10x50 is a factor of 5 whilst 7x42 is 6 ( its effective aperture thats why sailing / hunting exploring organisations recommend 7x 42 as the best compromise between magnification and ability to view things (depth of field decreses with magnification). It isn't just about holding them steady either, it s things like atmospheric haze and the things in the line of sight between you and what your looking at and finally it is down to the quality of lens and mechanism ( between the two sets of lenses too). The russian ones are ok the throw in the back of the SUV for emergencys and not care if they get ruined but not much else.
The Olympic 8x42s will do good for you!
To get an idea of relative brightness between binos or scopes divide the lens dia by magnification and you will see that 10x50 is a factor of 5 whilst 7x42 is 6 ( its effective aperture thats why sailing / hunting exploring organisations recommend 7x 42 as the best compromise between magnification and ability to view things (depth of field decreses with magnification). It isn't just about holding them steady either, it s things like atmospheric haze and the things in the line of sight between you and what your looking at and finally it is down to the quality of lens and mechanism ( between the two sets of lenses too). The russian ones are ok the throw in the back of the SUV for emergencys and not care if they get ruined but not much else.
The Olympic 8x42s will do good for you!
TheOpticZone
Inactive
I would go with the 8x42's. As said already, they will be easier to hold steady and are lighter in weight than the 10x50's. Equivalant brands and models the 8x42's are going to give a slightly brighter picture due to the larger exit pupil in the 8x42's (5.25mm) vs the 10x0's (5.0mm). It will not be a tremendous difference with the can of .25mm, but the larger field of view and the lighter weight would be the major decison factors for me.
Get big pupil lenses to improve speed of acquisition, and eye comfort, and brightness. 
Straight tubes (BAK-4 is really nice)
Waterproof (Unfortunately, cannot do this with zoomers.)
Armour coated to keep them pretty and improve your grip.
Under $200... or over $350 to get the best bang for the buck.
Nikon and Bushnell are the most "straight up" and they sell binoculars... not name brands.
Leupold's are really great optics and the best price of the best brands.
Straight tubes (BAK-4 is really nice)
Waterproof (Unfortunately, cannot do this with zoomers.)
Armour coated to keep them pretty and improve your grip.
Under $200... or over $350 to get the best bang for the buck.
Nikon and Bushnell are the most "straight up" and they sell binoculars... not name brands.
Leupold's are really great optics and the best price of the best brands.
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