Help Sticky EL-Paso Holster

K

KEYBEAR

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I have a EL Paso Saddlery Holster ( the Harding ) for a Ruger Blackhawk Flat Top . I do like the Holster and use it a lot but the gun is hard to Draw out .
I bought some Draw-EZ that works well but is costly anything else I can use that is cheaper ? I think it cost around 15 bucks for a very small bottle .
 
An old trick is to wrap the gun in several layers of plastic wrap and leave it in the holster for a few days. I think the idea is that the extra girth of the wrapped gun stretches the leather just a bit while retaining the shape of the gun. I tried it on a leather holster and it worked for me.
 
Wrap the gun in plastic wrap and dampen the holster. Place wrapped gun in holster and let it dry. The leather will mold to the gun.
 
I thank You for the Advice but I already did that ?

I ask about a cheaper product to use instead of Draw-EZ .
 
I thank You for the Advice but I already did that ?

I ask about a cheaper product to use instead of Draw-EZ .
Click to expand...

Well excuuse me, I was just trying to help. That has worked for about a gazillion CAS shooters, dunno why it wouldn't work for you too.
 
Is the problem that the holster is too snug or that the leather is "tacky"? Different problems - different solutions to each.
 
Hawg

I soaked the Holster in a 5 Gal bucket for about an hour , Then wrapped the Blackhawk in two Wal-Mart bags . Than set it over a heat vent for a day or two . I fits ok but if it is in the Holster all day it is hard to pull out '

I used the Draw-EZ and it was great for a short time .
Just looking for a cheaper fix .
 
For one thing that was way too much water. All you needed to do was spray it damp. It might have stretched too much and the gun now rides lower in it. Best thing I can tell you is wear it a few days and it should break in.
 
Hawg may be right. If that is so, do what we used to instruct police officers whenever they were issued a new holster (they were issued the Safariiland Triple Retention SS III 070 holster). Take it home and practice drawing it for 1,000 times. It may take a couple of nights, but I'd tell them to go slow first and work on a smooth draw. As they become more familiarized with the holster, speed will naturally pick up. Do that. Practice, practice, practice.
 
let's see if I remember everything
O.P. claims the revolver was too hard to draw.
Was asked if the inside of holster was tacky, like a gummy substance,
or just too tight.
Never seen an actual answer to that question.

Now was it form fitted at the factory?

You soaked it and then left gun in it for two days on heat to dry.
This in of itself will not make it form fitting, you would have to still finger mould it to shape as it dries.
But the excess water and drying can damage the leather, and yes if the revolver was pushed too far down while leather was wet, make it ride too deep and harder to pull, if indeed it was factory moulded.

Other thing is if it was factory moulded but for a different gun.

So back to the original question and because of what you have already tried this may not work either.
PURE neatsfoot oil used sparingly will help soften the leather.

But in this case (originally) I would of recommended saddle soap or even a paste wax. Provided the holster was not lined with a different leather.
If unlined, this would help seal and flatten the "nap" of the rough leather making it smoother and thus less friction.

This should of been done at the factory before stitching closed.

Another all natural option would be our typical bullet lube from just Beeswax and lard (not crisco).
Mixed thin enough to work a bit into the leather will help seal it down also.
But again sparingly.

Once the leather has been over stretched by excess water and then dried, no real way to re-soften and shrink it down.

As I think Hawg said. For those wanting to do it yourselves.
You can use a spray bottle a wet the inside of the holster in just the area you want to stretch a bit. Warm water works better.
Or lay a small clean sponge soaked in water in the area.
You want it (leather) damp to wet but not dripping.
Now wrap the gun and GENTLY insert it to just the desired depth.
Let dry naturally in a shaded spot, no heat or sunlight.
And if you want to form fit the mould apply finger pressure to those areas

Reason to wet inside it is normally raw leather. The outside has been treated with water for forming, dyes (oil water or alcohol based) and a treatment, which makes it pretty much water resistant.

If the holster is lined with another leather, you pretty much sol.
 
I ask this question


I have a EL Paso Saddlery Holster ( the Harding ) for a Ruger Blackhawk Flat Top . I do like the Holster and use it a lot but the gun is hard to Draw out .
I bought some Draw-EZ that works well but is costly anything else I can use that is cheaper ? I think it cost around 15 bucks for a very small bottle .


No one even came close to an answer . The Holster has been fit to the Revolver it fits fine . The problem is a very small little thing I would like to know if any has used a product called Draw-EZ . It coats the inside of the holster and makes it slick . If you have maybe you found something that works as well (as Draw-EZ) but cheaper .

I did not at any time ask for anything else .

Thank You
 
So, I think you have kind of answered my question. It its about the leather itself rather than the shape. Galco sells a holster polish. I've read on other forums where shooters use neutral Kiwi shoe polish or even Johnson's paste wax.
 
Doyle

Thank You for answering the Question .
Yes the inside of the Holster is a little ruff .
EL-Paso is a little vague on the description it said in the catalog lined ??
it is not lined but a nice Holster but not what I really got .

I never really soaked the Holster in a bucket of water I did use a wet cloth and put it side the Holster for 5/6 minutes . I did wrap the revolver in Wal-Mart bags pushed the gun in until it was just right and set it in a warm spot .

One reason I needed to do some extra is the Holster was built for a Ruger Super Blackhawk but I have a Magnum Research BFR 44 Mag 5 inch barrel .
EL-Paso does not offer a Holster for the BFR and the Ruger is just a little smaller
 
No I have not used the draw ez product.
But I did give you some options to slick it up, which were also mentioned by others.
In so many words you were asking for help to make it easier to draw. other products / options. people did give you that info.

and here is YOUR specific problem:
One reason I needed to do some extra is the Holster was built for a Ruger Super Blackhawk but I have a Magnum Research BFR 44 Mag 5 inch barrel .
EL-Paso does not offer a Holster for the BFR and the Ruger is just a little smaller
Click to expand...

wrong gun for the holster you bought, which YOU failed to mention in the first post.

And this contradicts your 5/6 minute wet sponge:
I soaked the Holster in a 5 Gal bucket for about an hour , ..... Than set it over a heat vent for a day or two .
Click to expand...

I mentioned the saddle soap and the paste wax which are about as less expensive as you can get. (as did other folks here)

as far as rolling down the nap almost impossible after the holster is stitched.

as to the form fit.
many holsters are form fitted with a generic plastic pistol that comes close to an original but not always exact.

Now without seeing your holster I can only guess as the reason for hard draw, before you tried wetting and drying.

The mould used was a tad small in some areas. so your gun just plain fits tighter to the formed areas ( not to mention your gun is not the same gun as the holster was designed for)
Just wetting and setting the gun in it will not always correct this. You have to look inside and see if you can see where the gun may be scuffing the leather a bit.
Then wet that area and push the gun in there. It may help to wrap the gun in newspaper or some such to add a bit more bulk in that area of the gun, and then plastic bags. Then insert it.
Then it becomes a matter of just a lot of in and out (usage).

Factory holsters are massed produced not all will be a perfect fit.
Most factories today use a vacuum former. the holster is made, wetted down, plastic mould inserted, placed in a vacuum box. the vacuum sucks the leather down around the gun and the water boils off at the same time.
No heat is needed.

A properly designed holster fitted to your particular gun, should not need a slickum agent to make it easier to draw.

hopefully this clears up my first post a bit, and will actually help you determine the next step.
 
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