Help! Security Six problem...

D

Dorrin 79

Inactive
So, I picked up my Security Six today (ordered off gunbroker - Stainless 4"). Flawless condition, exactly what I expected.

Took it down to the range and started putting rounds through it. Nice light trigger pull, accurate, little bit of adjustment to the sights..

on th 6th cylinder of .38spl target loads I pushed in the cylinder release, and nothing happened! Cylinder would not swing free.

Fiddled with it for 10 minutes and finally gave up. Went in to pay, asked clerk if he knew what could have happened. He (with my permission) took a rubber mallet to the cylinder and knocked it free - turns out the ejection rod had been loose and worked itself out under recoil, until it had become long enough to bind the cylinder in place. Application of mallet knocked it loose... but now my new revolver has a bent ejection rod, and is totally bargled. Trigger pull varies widely as you go around the cylinder, because the bent rod is rubbing against the underlug in places.

Does anyone know how I can either a) get a new ejector rod or b) otherwise fix this..

Brownell's doesn't carry them and Numrich is out - and I'd rather not wait 2 months for them to get another shipment in.
 
I guess you have now found out why you do not use a hammer on such a problem. that is what gunsmiths are for. you should be able to get the parts from Ruger or just send the gun to Ruger and let them fix it
 
Take your Six to a good smith. If you try to fix it yourself you may simply cause more problems.

See if you can find an inexpensive Smith, Colt, Ruger, etc to learn smithing on. One that, if you have to "write it off", will not cause serious damage to either your wallet or your ego!!!
 
Agreed re: hammers, guns
:o

Luckily Ruger still has ejection rods available, for the very reasonable price of $3.50.

So I should be back in business in 5-7 days.

This time I'll apply some loctite to it :o
 
make sure that in your use of the hammer that you didn't hurt the crane in anyway also. if it is bent just the new ejector rod isn't going to be of much good
 
This technique works on Smith and Wessons, and I imagine it would work on Rugers also. Keep a strip of x-=ray film or 35mm negative in your tool box. If you ever have this trouble again, draw back on the hammer until the bolt drops out of the notch in the cylinder. Stick the film between the bolt and the cylinder, and this will keep the bolt from engaging. reach into the ejector rod shround with a fingertip to keep the ejector from turning, and turn the cylinder to screw it back enough to allow you to open it. Some people use pliers with padding, to tighten the ejector rod. If you decide to do this, place some fired cases in the chambers to help support the ejector star.
 
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