Help picking up new scope mount.

[berto255]

My set up Vanguard synthetic 223 with:

Millett 2-Piece Steel Angle-Loc Weaver-Style Scope Base (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=187470)

Millett 30mm Angle-Loc Detachable Rings Weaver-Style Matte High (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=155262)

Mueller Target Rifle Scope 30mm Tube 8-32x 44mm Side Focus Target Dot Reticle Matte (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=835407)

Here is my dilemma, I really want a one piece rail but I don't know If I really needed (maybe I just want one) but if I get one which one do I really get.

EGW 1-Piece Picatinny-Style Base Howa, Weatherby Vanguard Matte Short Action (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=147936)

or
EGW 1-Piece Picatinny-Style 20 MOA Elevated Base Howa, Weatherby Vanguard Matte Short Action (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=341815)

Do I really need the 20 MOA and how much of a difference is really going to make? I'm not a hunter, I can't really shot more than 250 to 300 yards because down here in South Florida there is really no where that I can shoot longer than that. Maybe in the future if my buddy buys the 20 acres his got in the works

 

[matrxx]

I would go with 1pcs scope mount instead of 2 pcs for being less busy.

I see you don't need that 20MOS scope base but flat.

 

[bamaranger]

bases

There are many that feel that a one piece base stiffens the action and lends to accuracy. The counter argument is that they are slightly heavier.

A 20 MOA base is only useful if you plan to shoot past 1000 yds, & your scope has limited MOA adjustment. Sounds like your intended use is very typical and the MOA base would simply be unnecessary.

 

[berto255]

There are many that feel that a one piece base stiffens the action and lends to accuracy. The counter argument is that they are slightly heavier.

A 20 MOA base is only useful if you plan to shoot past 1000 yds, & your scope has limited MOA adjustment. Sounds like your intended use is very typical and the MOA base would simply be unnecessary.

I would go with 1pcs scope mount instead of 2 pcs for being less busy.

I see you don't need that 20MOS scope base but flat

Thank you

 

[berto255]

Range Update

First we set the target at 100 yards and squeezed the first round (Remington UMC 55GR MC .223) and nothing (no visible bullet strike), second round and nothing, third round and nothing. So we moved the target all the way to 25 yards. The board was about 2'x4' and I had this sheet in the bottom (pix). First round was about almost 1.5 feet from center of the board.

So I think I made like a 1.5 MOA adjustment and I got the first 3 shots to the left in a nice clover leaf pattern at 10 o'clock.
4th round after maybe 2 or 3 clicks adjustment (remember my scope is 1/8" per click).
5th round was an unknown adjustment; I know it was a lot because I crank the dial like maybe a couple of MOA's.
The 6th was right on top of the red bullseye and two more (7th & 8th) right after that (very nice cloverleaf).
So we moved to 50 yards and I got two more (9th & 10th) right in the middle (BULLSEYE) after maybe a couple of MOA's of elevation adjustment.
My dad, an ex-military officer, has been retired for about 15 years. He is right handed but left eye dominant, he took the rifle from me and stood up and shot (11th) at 3 o'clock on the red. Not too bad for an old man and a rookie shooter (me).

I feel very happy with my performance, my first rifle, my first built and my first time shooting a center fire rifle. Kudos Weatherby.

 

[golfnutrlv]

The only real reason to have the 20 MOA base, is for more adjustment range at long range. It increases the height-over-bore number, but mine has never been a problem.

I have the same base you are looking at. Mine is on a Remington 700 Short Action. Be aware, you may have to loctite the screws on the base.

 

[kaylorinhi]

Scope mounting advice

Thank you gentlemen for the advice as I needed to buy new mounting equipment this weekend, I ended up with this set-up. I have not even received it yet so any advice would be appreciated!

http://media.midwayusa.com/ProductImages/Large/445105.jpg

http://media.midwayusa.com/ProductImages/Large/562717.jpg

http://media.midwayusa.com/ProductImages/Large/954240.jpg

My set-up is a M700SPS .308 with a hogue overmold Harris bipods and a Bushnell 3200 5-15x40 tactical mildot.

Suggestions?

Mike

 

[kaylorinhi]

Items

The above posted items came in the mail today, Any advice will be helpful, i have a all needed tools and a friend has one of those scope level and torque-driver sets. Advise and your experience will be read and heeded as this is my first real, read expensive, scope mounting adventure!

Mike

 

[Dallas Jack]

Make sure your scope reticle is centered before starting. Get your scope level with the gun. Use a grided boresighter to see how far off you are from center. If the difference is very great (8-10 inches) then lap the rings and try again. You want to get as much misallignment out as possibly leaving you with the most adjustment for the turrets.

Hope this helps.
Dallas Jack

 

[kaylorinhi]

Get Everything going and lapped the mounts until my arms were sore! She shoots like a visual O and things were great until... see new thread "*** is this"

 

[James R. Burke]

I like them both in a good a quality make. It is nice to have the windeage adjustment on the base. I try to get fairly close with that to begin with, then use a lock tight **** that is removable. That way your more centered over the bore when you start out. Then I make my smaller adjustments with the scope. You dont need it perfect just get it close than take over with the scope. I do like the Leupold but there are a few others that are just has good or better. Sometimes you need a one piece or the two piece depending on how the fire arm is set up. Most the time it will not matter except to you, and what you feel is the best.