Help needed in designing a defense friendly home.

B

Big Dave

New member
Hi,

My wife and I will be building a home shortly. I'd like to find some solid information on design tips that would aid in a possible intrusion. Ideas to deter the bad guys from picking our house...

The idea is to build something to give me an edge over the evil ones, but still have a very functional living space.

Thanks,

Dave
 
Jef Cooper has every door and window covered by a gun port that you can't detect from out side but he is paranoid. Most effort would be spent in landscaping and lighting. No places for the BG to hide while making his entry. Electric warning system and good locks and a hand gun in near proximity in the rooms you spend the most time in. Locks on all doors within the house. Programmed 911 phone in several points in the house Decorative bars on the windows You don't have to make it look like a jail! Just so a body can't get in that way

These are suggestions to protect you or your wife from normal dangers of burglary or house invasion. For a threat more serious than that I wouldn't have any idea.
 
the one thig that i can think of right now is thick or extremly sturdy walls to keep overpenitration to a minimn shuold you ever have to shoot

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oneshotonekill
 
You might want to check out doors which swing out instead of in. I don't know all the reasoning behind this, other than it would make it nearly impossible for someone to kick in, but it's something you might want to ask a security specialist.

One thing that makes me feel a lot safer are my dogs. They always let me know when someone is getting too close to the house.
And when you're gone, they could raise enough commotion to alert the neighbors.

Advertise! When I lived in the country I had a sign at the beginning of the driveway saying "Forget about the dog, worry about the owner", which had a picture of a hand cannon next to the text. I would like to think the BG would move on if he knew you were armed.
 
Oooh, such a tempting thread.

You see, we're thinking about designing our own home too.

Already, my wife has fully agreed that I can have a so-called "Batcave". Basically, we've taken a selected home plan and modified the den so the only entry way is concealed inside our bedroom closet. The batcave would serve as the hardened saferoom for us. Also, the floor plan has only one staircase leading up towards the kids' bedrooms, creating a prefect bottleneck for surprises if we can't get to them in time.

I've also suggested about adding an underground shelter from Radius Defense attached to the Batcave.. but this is the part where I get funny looks from the missus. Ok, maybe a Hive or Bear Den instead. I dunno. We're just pipe dreaming mostly, but it's fun if nothing else.

Well, that and the typical home security measures. But others will cover these.

[This message has been edited by SB (edited October 23, 1999).]
 
Hidden storage spots are a good idea. A central room that has no windows should be on the list. A cellar door is nice if you need an escape root. Your attic should provide a good view of all of your property.
 
You could resort to an old plan where the house is build around an open plaza. A "U" shaped house with the top of the "U" a wall with the only entry into the plaza and home thru that wall. Three or four feet inside the door opening in the outer wall is another wall a foot or so wider than the opening and too tall for some one to jump. There would be no windows on the outside of the structure, only looking into the plaza.

Those seeking entry with evil intent would have to break thru the outer door and then would run head long into the inner wall. With the proper warning from them breaking thru the door, you should be ready to hold them off.

For alarms, animal, I suggest Guinea fowl and geese. NOBODY can sneak up on Guinea fowl or geese. And a piece of poisoned meat will not silence a flock of either.

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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"



[This message has been edited by Jim V (edited October 23, 1999).]
 
Thanks everyone,

Attack geese, where can I have one trained? Those 200 pound African Badgers would be really effective. Big cats don't even mess with those guys.

The house is mostly designed...basic two story with no attic or basement (Hawaii).

We do plan on getting a little dog and alarm. Saw on one of those Home TV Shows where there's a metal strip that you can install in your door frame that will also help against forced entry.

Actually, someone mentioned a book...don't know if anyone's heard of it. Something like "Truth and Personal Defense."

More help is appreciated.

Dave
 
I know I've seen somewhere a home door where the door lock activates bolts emerging from all edges of the door, much like a safe. Might even have been on This Old House. Cheaper by far, but not so automatic, is this gadget you can get, a hinged arm attached to the door, which locks into a socket in the floor, butressing the door against impact.

SB: LOVE your "Batcave"! If only I'd thought so far ahead when laying out my home. I AM planning a walk in gun safe in the basement, though. (You can buy safe doors with frames to be set in concrete.) It will double as a tornado shelter, something it's very handy to have in my area of Michigan.

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Sic semper tyranus!
 
Ok, spent some time on Amazon and come up with some interesting titles.

Tips Against Crime, Written from Prison : A Crime Survival Guide for the '90s
by Richard O. Jones


Crime Prevention Through Housing Design
by P. Stollard (Editor)

Safe in the City : A Streetwise Guide to Avoid Being Robbed, Raped,Ripped Off, or Run over
by Marc MacYoung, Chris Pfouts

Basic Home Security, a Do It Yourself Manual, Single Source Reference
by Clay E. Higgins

Effective Physical Security
by Lawrence J. Fennelly (Editor)
Table of Contents
Foreword
Louis A. Tyska
PART ONE / DESIGN
1. Designing Security with the Architects
2. Security Surveys
3. Crime Prevention through Environmental
Design Strategies and Applications
4. Approaches to Physical Security
PART TWO / EQUIPMENT
5. Physical Barriers
6. The Use of Locks in Physical Crime Prevention
7. Safes, Vaults, and Accessories
8. Security Lighting
9. Alarms: Intrusion Detection Systems
10. CCTV Surveillance
11. Electronic Surveillance and Wiretapping
12. Physical Access Control for Computer Areas
13. Electronic Access Control and System
Integration
PART THREE / OPERATIONS
14. Guard Service in the Twenty-first Century
15. Bomb and Physical Security Planning
16. Public Relations and the Media
 
I like Drew's comment on doors that open out, since I came up with that observation some 20 years ago, but after research since then I discover it seems to be impossible.

Conversation goes like this:"For a residence, they open in. For a business they open out. It's code."

Me:"Why?"

Him:"For safety in the event of a fire, the doors on commercial establishments have to open out."

Me:"Fine, now why can't MY house have doors that open out?"

Him:"It's not a commercial building." (looking like he was talking to an idiot by now)

Me:"So what? Can't it catch on fire, for example?"

Him:"It's CODE!"

Wasn't going anywhere. Maybe this is local, but I don't think you can get it done. I had ZERO luck, and the only explanation I ever got was (I think) tongue in cheek, a smartass reference to it being tougher to break my door down. Which, of course, was EXACTLY why I wanted it that way.
 
Yea,

That idea about having the doors open out is a good one. On that House Show they were doing it for 2 reasons.
a. stronger for hurricaine winds
b. stronger for breakins

What about Massad Ayoob's book, "The Truth About Self Protection." Anybody read that or the others?

Laters,

Dave
 
One thing I would suggest is steel doors with steel door frames. Not only are they more fire resistant, you certainly aren't going to kick them in. On interior doors, insist on solid core doors; not hollow. They cost more, but they are worth every nickle.

As for locks, but the best you can afford. Don't scrimp. If your exterior doors have windows, MAKE SURE the dead bolt cannot be reached if they break the window. Some would advocate a key-locked dead bolt from the inside, instead of a knob. Pros and cons for both sides. Think about trying to escape a fire at 0230, getting to the door and not having the key to the deadbolt. Scary stuff....

Plan for an extra closet to be converted to a walk-in gun vault. Line it with steel mesh, rebar between the studs and three layers of sheetrock. Add one of the afore-mentioned steel doors and jams and three good deadbolts (top, bottom and above the knob) and you are in business. If you live in a humid climate, you may want to consider a dehumidifier in there, also. Rusty guns are depressing....

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Mossyrock
I respect your right to your own opinions and beliefs
and will fight to the death to defend your right to them
regardless of how uninformed and ignorant they may be.
 
On deadbolts.

1) Our fire department recommends deadbolts keyed only on the outside - to facilitate escape from fires.

2) I have double-keyed deadbolts. When I'm home I leave my keys in the inside deadbolt. Easy escape from fire. No lost keys. Double benefit.

When I'm not home, the burglars can't open the door and cart off everything.

(Just another $0.02)
 
Rregarding attack geese, you don't have to train them.. If they decide you are a threat, plan on getting hurt. I had a chance to watch four domestic geese beat the living dog snot out of a 6' tall trespasser one time. Once he went down, it was gawdawful to watch.

Regarding locks, get them all keyed alike, entry locks and deadbolts. On the hinge side of the door drill a 5/8" hole or two in the door frame and install a couple of dowel pins in the door so that when the door is shut the pins enter the holes in the frame. Or install a dead bolt on the hinge side of teh door. Make sure that the locks on both sides don't line up.

If you use double hung windows, drill a 1/4" or smaller hole through the top edge of the bottom sash and a series of holes in the upper sash that will line up with the bottom sash's hole. Have the holes on a slight downward angle so when the window is open you can put a nail or other steel pin thru the bottom sash and into the upper sash. If the pin to window hole fit is tight and the angle is correct, moving the bottom sash up will not work because the upper sash will be against the top of the window frame, lowering the bottom sash will then lower the upper sash. You need a good pin/hole fit with an angle to prevent someone shaking the pin out of place. You can get keyed window locks that can not be opened with a flexible bladed knife, these window locks coupled with a pin between the two halves of the window will prevent entry when the window is closed.

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Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"



[This message has been edited by Jim V (edited October 24, 1999).]
 
Big Dave: Another good title to read is, "The Big Book of Secret Hiding Places", published by Palidan Press. After all, you want to know how to hide the door to your batcave, right?

Ha! Got it! You can make both the construction code AND Cooper happy: A relatively easy to break outside door opens into a small foyer. Not in line with that door, (So as to prevent a run up with a battering ram.) a steel framed fire door opens into the foyer from the rest of the house. Add those hidden peep holes / gun ports, and you'll be set. Here in Michigan we call it a mud room.

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Sic semper tyranus!
 
While you're building a "defense" friendly home, how about making it "EMS" friendly as well?

Have two people (one at each end) carry a piece of thin plywood (or even stiff cardboard) 6.5 feet long, 30 inches wide from every place in your house to your driveway. No tilting allowed - keep it flat and level! That will give you an idea what EMS needs to carry a stretcher through your home.

Ask me if I hate 18" wide spiral stairs. Grrrrrrr.

One house had ONLY an elevator to the second floor where the bedrooms were. The elevator was about three feet square. DOUBLE GRRR!

We had to strap the patient to a backboard, stand him straight up, put him in the elevator alone!! And have firefighters unload him on the first floor, etc. etc.

(From chapter 43 of "EMS! Nightmare Calling")
 
Thanks for the continued tips.

In regards to the geese. Acutally someone has one in their yard near here. They are the perfect height to go for the nads. Quack Quack.

Ahh, Secret Hiding Places, yes I could use a few more that my wife does not know about.

It's easy to get a little paranoid reading all the forums and such. I was wondering how many bad guys are logging on also.

Take care,

Dave
 
I have Ayoob's book, "The Truth about Self-Protection." it is an excellent book, chock full of stuff. it was written in the late 1970s so the technical content is dated, but the philosophy is the real value. it will help you do a risk assessment.

Dennis' comment is also apropos if you need to move big furniture, appliances, etc.

solid core exterior doors, reinforced frames, and a good deadbolt. don't forget the peephole. concerning double-keyed deadbolts; won't do much good unless you keep all of your serious tools (crowbars, sledgehammer, etc) in a vault in the garage. once they are in, and can get into the garage, they probably have all the tools they need.

the thing to do is look at your house from the viewpoint of a burglar. find the easiest way in, then reinforce that.
 
That's EASY: The easiest way into MY home is by kicking in one of the ground level windows into the half basement, at the back of the house. (A little duct tape first, and nobody would ever hear a thing.) I have one of the most burglar friendly homes in existance; About the only way I could make forced entry easier would be by hanging a house key next to the door!

Blast it, now I'm not going to get a good night's sleep until I do something about this!

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Sic semper tyranus!
 
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