Help me date a well used S&W M38

gfen

New member
Last week, I bought my wife her first revolver. Waaay down at the end, in the used case was a little old S&W M38 Bodyguard.

I thought about that revolver for the last week, spent two days reading up on them, and decided to head down and pick it up today.

As the workerbee pulled it from the case he says, "Well, it might be cursed..guy who just tried to buy it left in 'cuffs..."

I pressed me luck, as far as I'm concerned, I was destined to buy it!

$209 later, and here I sit with a M38 Bodyguard, blue Airweight with stainless cylinder. There's no "Airweight" script on the body, its only on the barrel under ".38 Special CTG." The store tells me they sent it back to S&W to fix its timing, and it locks up perfect, I'm no revolver expert but the trigger seems perfect, and the weapon flawless (in performance, its a bit worn on the muzzle and a few scratches, but, whatever)..

So, three questions..
One, can someone date this guy for me? Serial #4246xx.
Two, rated for +P or not?
THree, OK to dryfire? Hammer mounted pin. I can carry on a loaded chamber, right?
OK, a bonus fourth: Anything I should check on before I use it?

Anyways, turns out the unlucky buyer came back after I started the paperworks. Identity theft victim. Felt bad for him, but tough luck, my revolver now!

gfen, two buys in one week!
 
I own one of these very nice guns. SOG had them for about $250 a couple of years ago. They were Michigan State Police back-up guns. The sales to the Michigan Police Supply began in 1969
Here's mine.
SmithWessonM38.jpg
One, can someone date this guy for me? Serial #4246xx.
After 1969, before 1982. Probably about 1971 (WAG)
Two, rated for +P or not?
You can get away with it for a bit, but expect to ruin the frame if you shoot much +P.
Three, OK to dryfire?
Yes, dryfire away. You might want to put some spent shells in the cylinders if you are paranoid.
I can carry on a loaded chamber, right?
You should carry with all chambers loaded.
Anything I should check on before I use it?
Send it to me for a free 5 year evaluation.
 
Excellent, y'all are fast around here!

Nice to know my newest pistol is likely older than I am, there's something kinda fun about that. Mine and yours look almost identical in wear patterns except my cylinder-release-switch (bet theres a proper name for that), is also stainless. My grips are also different, with silver S&W medallions.

Although, well, I'm planning to replace the grips with a set of Lasergrips which may be hokey, but that part of me that aspires for mall ninja-tude is begging for it. :o

What do you use for your defensive load?
 
I use 110 grain HydraShoks.
My M38 came with the S&W splinter grips. The ones pictured were made by an old friend and used on his Centennial for years.
My M38 is my pocket and go carry gun, a constant companion. I really wish S&W would make it in a scandium framed .357 magnum. I just might buy a new S&W if they did.
 
If there's no letter prefix on the serial number, it's PRE 1969.

Probably 1964-66 time frame.

S&W started adding a letter prefix after serial number 786544, which dropped in 1969.

$209 is a very good price for a humpback.
 
About where would that put Serial # 296JXX Mike?
I always thought the stainless cylinder and Michigan Police order was a dead giveaway.
 
Are you sure you have that serial number right?

I can't find any J serial number 38s with three numbers preceding the J.

J prefix went from 1969 to 1982, and then went to 1J for several years before slipping into the current 3 letter and digits serial number series.
 
Open the cylinder. What's the number inside the crane cut?

That doesn't look like a Smith & Wesson serial number. Even though it's in the usual spot, the stamping appears to be very uneven.
 
attachment.php

It's 0075X. (last number covered in pic)
The butt number does appear to be crooked, but the butt is the same size as any other round butt, and does not appear to be altered.

Inside the frame's yoke recess is stamped MOD.38, with no further numbers, so I always considered the yoke number to be an assembly number.
 

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Yep, the yoke number is an assembly number.

I'm just not finding anything about a serial number with the J in that position.

I'm thinking you may want to contact S&W.
 
My blued 49's serial number is 899JXX. I bought it used 1975 and I'm the 3rd owner. I know the previous owners and figure mine was made in the early 70s. My numbers aren't perfectly lined up either. They're about like yours.
 
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