I can't decide on which to get, a SW model 64 or a Ruger police service six. Both are in .38 Special. Both have 4" barrels and are stainless. The Ruger is in Good condition and the Smith is in Very Good. The ruger is $220 and the SW is $230. Please, all who read vote and help me in this decision. I told myself that during the summer, I would only buy two more handguns, one is another 9mm and the other is a .38, so I will be getting ONE of the guns listed above. Thanks
Help me choose!!! S&W or Ruger??
- Thread starter 7.62
- Start date
SouthpawShootr
New member
Same here. S&W, assuming at least equal condition.
XavierBreath
New member
Smith
I just bought a 4" model 64 in excellent shape. Came with the original box and papers,and cleaning kit. Had to pay $300, but I love it. I have a 3" sp101 and a 2 1/4" sp101 ,so I like rugers too. But you will really like the model 64. Sounds like you can get a better deal than I did on the model 64. Go for the 64 you will not regret it.
The smith sounds like a better deal in this unique case however newer smiths arent worth it compared to newer rugers and new rugers are cheaper money wise to boot (smith = frame lock, cant handle heavy loads as good as ruger, they have nice triggers but thats about it) . so this time go wiith the smith, next time a ruger.
GrandmasterB
New member
Although I have a tremendous bias towards the Ruger "Six" series guns, the Smith sounds like the better deal here.
You should be able to find a Ruger Service Six in .357 chambering for near the same price -- it would be a better buy than the .38 version IMHO.
You should be able to find a Ruger Service Six in .357 chambering for near the same price -- it would be a better buy than the .38 version IMHO.
If both of these revolvers are close in condition-then, I'd go for the Ruger Service Six, because it is so much stronger than the S&W Model 64! Although I like the M64, I just would prefer the extra margin of strength built into the Ruger! The Ruger is a very "Underrated" revolver! In view of this, the S&W M64, will be the winner, in terms of being the most popular between these two guns(If this is important to you?)? On the other hand, if you want a .38 revolver, that is tough as nails, will give you great, long term service(Without shooting loose!)then, the Ruger is the best choice? Lastly, if the condition of the M64 is considerably better than the Ruger Service Six-then, I'd then pick the S&W M64, instead? 
Stronger doesn't matter, it is a 38!!!! Even if it was a 357 it wouldn't matter unless you are into overloading them intentionally.
The Smith has a far nicer double action and will last forever. Figure 50K rounds of rapid DA shooting before being concerned. The Ruger will last that long too but you will have do deal with the DA trigger the whole time.
The Smith has a far nicer double action and will last forever. Figure 50K rounds of rapid DA shooting before being concerned. The Ruger will last that long too but you will have do deal with the DA trigger the whole time.
HSSMITH:
I had thought the same thing, about the K-frame .38's not shooting loose so easily-and, I also had felt that these K-frames did not need the extra strength, that such a gun(Like the Ruger "Six Series' revolvers)had(In spades!)over these revolvers! However, I had to send in my first(Like new) M64 back to S&W to fix a serious end-shake problem since it had shot itself loose, early in it's life, without very many .38 rounds having been shot through this gun! This was disappointing to me(Especially, since this was only a .38 revolver!)! I think that strength does matter(Even for a .38!)because this can even make these revolvers withstand the firings of many .38+P loads(Much longer!)before shooting loose! With the Ruger "Six Series" revolvers, you can shoot any "Sane" loading(In .38 or in their .357 revolvers)without any worry of these guns shooting loose! History has confirmed this fact! But(In theory)I grant that in .38 special(Caliber)strength shouldn't matter on the average(But, it is still nice to have this extra "Reserve" strength, that the Ruger revolvers can offer!)!
And, I have seen many(.357)K-frames in Gun Shops that I had wanted to buy(But, had "Rejected")in view of their having too much end shake(And, these being beautiful(Older)S&W collectible(LNIB)revolvers with still beautiful factory S&W bluing)! I very much like these "Classic" S&W K-frames-but, I still prefer the extra strength that the Rugers have over the K-frames! I have seen some Ruger "Six Series" revolvers, that looked like they had been shot to HELL(But, they still hadn't been shot "Loose"!)! This(To me)is amazing!
I agree, that the trigger on the S&W K-frames, are definately better than on the Ruger "Six Series" revolvers! However, with a proper hammer strut spring(Or, a full trigger spring kit)added to the Ruger's, the trigger greatly improves(Although still not quite up to the level of the(Older)S&W K-frames)but still can be pretty good!
I had thought the same thing, about the K-frame .38's not shooting loose so easily-and, I also had felt that these K-frames did not need the extra strength, that such a gun(Like the Ruger "Six Series' revolvers)had(In spades!)over these revolvers! However, I had to send in my first(Like new) M64 back to S&W to fix a serious end-shake problem since it had shot itself loose, early in it's life, without very many .38 rounds having been shot through this gun! This was disappointing to me(Especially, since this was only a .38 revolver!)! I think that strength does matter(Even for a .38!)because this can even make these revolvers withstand the firings of many .38+P loads(Much longer!)before shooting loose! With the Ruger "Six Series" revolvers, you can shoot any "Sane" loading(In .38 or in their .357 revolvers)without any worry of these guns shooting loose! History has confirmed this fact! But(In theory)I grant that in .38 special(Caliber)strength shouldn't matter on the average(But, it is still nice to have this extra "Reserve" strength, that the Ruger revolvers can offer!)!
And, I have seen many(.357)K-frames in Gun Shops that I had wanted to buy(But, had "Rejected")in view of their having too much end shake(And, these being beautiful(Older)S&W collectible(LNIB)revolvers with still beautiful factory S&W bluing)! I very much like these "Classic" S&W K-frames-but, I still prefer the extra strength that the Rugers have over the K-frames! I have seen some Ruger "Six Series" revolvers, that looked like they had been shot to HELL(But, they still hadn't been shot "Loose"!)! This(To me)is amazing!
I agree, that the trigger on the S&W K-frames, are definately better than on the Ruger "Six Series" revolvers! However, with a proper hammer strut spring(Or, a full trigger spring kit)added to the Ruger's, the trigger greatly improves(Although still not quite up to the level of the(Older)S&W K-frames)but still can be pretty good!
Boa, sounds like your gun wasn't set up properly to begin with. I have a K38 from 1949 that is still as tight as they get after many thousands of rounds. I have a M13 with many thousands of magnums and tens of thousands of 38's, endshake is less than .002". My M19 has over 40K rounds through it, end shake is right at .002". My M15 has several thousand rounds through it and no appreciable endshake.
Lots of Smiths left the factory with .002" of endshake, as have lots of Rugers. It isn't right to have them leave that loose but it happens. The endshake is easily repaired on a Smith too even by a DIY guy at home.
I shot a Service Six loose, it took about 15K rounds and about half those were magnums, it had about .007" of endshake. It certainly didn't hold up better than a Smith but it is only a sample of one, much like the Smith you had. It was sent to Ruger TWICE and still loose as a goose, so I sold it off. My Police Service Six is pretty low mileage, and has a little under .002" of endshake.
I've gone through quite a few revolvers. I shoot the snot out of them and do it often. The K-frame has been more durable for me than everything else other than a GP100. The GP held up just fine, but even with full polishing and a spring kit in it there was a lot left to be desired in the DA pull.
Lots of Smiths left the factory with .002" of endshake, as have lots of Rugers. It isn't right to have them leave that loose but it happens. The endshake is easily repaired on a Smith too even by a DIY guy at home.
I shot a Service Six loose, it took about 15K rounds and about half those were magnums, it had about .007" of endshake. It certainly didn't hold up better than a Smith but it is only a sample of one, much like the Smith you had. It was sent to Ruger TWICE and still loose as a goose, so I sold it off. My Police Service Six is pretty low mileage, and has a little under .002" of endshake.
I've gone through quite a few revolvers. I shoot the snot out of them and do it often. The K-frame has been more durable for me than everything else other than a GP100. The GP held up just fine, but even with full polishing and a spring kit in it there was a lot left to be desired in the DA pull.