Help for my step dad!

My step dad was given a Smith and Wesson top break .32 revolver by my uncle. This gun is in beautiful condition. I am trying to find out information on when it was made and the approximate value. Any ideas? The serial number is 141734. Here us a picture :confused:of it. Thanks all. image.jpg
 
Looks like a IJ . Top break.. the two go hand and hand from what I've seen I'm npt a gun smith or a pro like some on here.. but nice pic...but I see the sw.. Probably made early 1900s late 18s .. check out my post with the pix... you'll see what I mean how they kinda gp hand n hamd.. another Saturday night special? !?!?!
 
Got a couple in that area... I think they are smokeless era guns, but someone who is better with the S&W serials will have to let you know DOM
 
serial number helps on age, but, and this happens often. TO figure out if the barrel/cylinder assembly is smokeless or black powder is harder then you think. That goes by what the barrel says.

I have seen a decent number of sw and ij topbreaks with smokeless numbers that have the barrel/cylinder from a bp only gun.
 
I believe it is a Smith & Wesson Top Break, Double Action, 4th Model. Fourth models extend from Ser #43406 to 282999 and were manufactured c. 1883 - 1909. This info found in the "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson" (Supica and Nahas). Given the numbers made, these are not rare at all. They have been among the lower-valued S&Ws in the collector market but everything there continues to creep up in price. I would be pleased if I could find one in excellent condition for $300. Most gun sharps would ask more. Folks who have these often shoot factory 32 S&W ammo in them. I do not recommend it and prefer to use light handloads with round balls or a 76-gr lead bullet meant for 32 ACP.
 
Don't be confused by the above post! He is talking about handloaded ammunition with bullets designed for .32 acp.
DO NOT shoot .32 acp in this gun.
 
I think the 5th one down on the right is a S&W similar to yours,,, notice the trigger guard is also blued ( & the trigger & hammer )

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if your dad's gun functions properly, I'd expect it to be worth somewhere between $200 & $300 in my area... ( though I think I only paid $150.00 for mine a couple years ago, when I bought it )

I do reload the cartridge, & have 3 different load levels, with my lowest pressure "gun check out load" only using a pinch of Trailboss, & a soft lead round ball, without inspecting your gun, I'd recommend only shooting 32 S&W ( shorts ) with light loads, & soft lead bullets, provided it "times out" as safe to shoot
 
Mr. DeShivs, if I would not recommend shooting low-pressure , factory .32 S&W in an old gun, why would I recommend shooting .32 ACP in it? In my post, I am talking about using a 76-gr lead bullet, meant for the 32 ACP, in a handload for the .32 S&W. This bullet is lighter than the 85- or 88-grain bullets normally recommended for the .32 S&W, and this helps keep pressure down in the old guns. There is no recommendation in my post to shoot .32 ACP in a gun chambered for .32 S&W. I am sure you know that the .32 ACP case is longer and generally will not chamber in a gun bored for the .32 S&W. The ACP will chamber in a gun made for the .32 S&W Long, but all of those S&Ws are solid frame designs.
 
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Steady now...

McShooty wrote:
Mr. DeShivs, if I would not recommend shooting low-pressure , factory .32 S&W in an old gun, why would I recommend shooting .32 ACP in it?

Far be it from me to wade into a dispute that's not of my making, but I don't think Bill's comments were meant to be any kind of criticism or rebuke towards you.

He was merely reinforcing a point to the OP, who may or may not be familiar with the range of .32 calibres available. You can imagine how a novice might home in on the wrong words from your advice and end up loading (or trying to load) the wrong ammunition, with potentially serious consequences.

Any additional clarification for the OP's benefit can only be a good thing and I am sure that no harm or offence was intended.
 
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