Help deciding on rechambering/rebareling Remingtin 700

After owning and shooting my Remington 700 classic factory chambered in 300 Weatherby magnum since 1990, and running an average of about 250+ rounds per year, I have noticed the accuracy degrading. Also 2x fired collet sized brass will not cycle because the brass has expanded beyond max COL.

I have a feeling the life of my barrel has passed. I have tried all different factory handloading bullet weights and charges nothing seems to work. So I have come to the conclusion that I need to rebarrel.

I talked to a Gunsmith and they quoted me a price of $500.00 with a stainless, 27", crowned and threaded for muzzle brake, 6 grooved, medium contour barrel installed in either 300 Weatherby or 300 RUM. I have reloading dies for both calibers.

Are their any suggestions; if so why?

I am pretty impressed with my sons 300 RUM accuracy. No matter what we fed it it never shot over 1.00"@ 100 yards.

Sorry for the long run onset I just didn't know how else to get my thoughts out here .
 
Yes I have a Lee trimmer bushing along with debugging chamfer bit 'and I always trim and now I have to fullsize every loading and it seems to be only my 300 weatherby my 270 winchester in a ark I ruger M77 my Savage 110 in 243 and my sone 300 RUM in Winchester model 70 classic don't have the problem my Remington has. Cycling brass or brass expanding beyond max dimensions
 
help deciding n rechaambering/rebarreling remington 700

Five hundred is a fair price. Weatherby wants five hundred fifteen dollars to rebarrel theMKV with 26 in barrel.
 
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So what part of the reloaded round is hanging up in the rifle? If you're trimming, it doesn't sound like it's the length. How many times have you reloaded this brass?

One thing that happens with belted magnum rounds is that the case just in front of the belt expands, and it's not sized down with a normal full length sizing die. A small company makes a special die to size down that part of the case, so it can keep being reloaded. Is it this part of the case that's causing problems?

Have you tried a brand new cartridge?

Basically, is the problem your rifle, or the brass?

Regardless, it appears that you've shot a lot of rounds through the rifle, and it's not unreasonable that it needs a new barrel.
 
i would look for another used rem 700 barrel in 300wby on line or at gun shows. i have bought several take off barrels for rem 700,s very reasonable. my last rem 700 barrel was a unused .308ss take off for 20.00. if needed my gun smith will put one on for 50.00 if not much metal work is needed. eastbank.
 
What do you mean the brass will not cycle? It won't go in the the chamber or it won't extract?
Chambers don't wear out. If you have a eroded bore that's not going to cause feeding/extraction problems.
 
Brass won't cycle after 1 load fresh Virgin brass will cycle ' after resizing and yes I have noticed it does swell above the belt and my rcbs full sizer can't get above the belting may have. To but Larry Willis diet just a little expensive besides that no matter what I feed through it's won't group at all compared to the 3 other rounds I routinely load for .I have looked for oem rememington barrels and I found a few 300 winchester but no luck for 300 Weatherby so if I had to spend another 500.00 iam unsure if I were to go 300 weatherby or 300 RUM?Of course this will be down the road some time like tax refund time but iam just trying what to plan for.
 
I'd never have a rifle re-barreled again. It cost me more than buying a new rifle and selling the old one. Plus, due to scheduling problems with my gunsmith, it took over 3 months to get it done.

You could buy a cheaper Remington with a synthetic stock and switch actions to use your older wood stock. Or, just sell the old rifle and buy a new one. You'll be shooting within a day or so!

JP
 
I'm on the opposite end. I think I'd go with a quality Krieger (or the equivilant) 300 Weatherby barrel on your Rem 700. I'd have them true the action as well. I'd be surprised if your rifle didn't shoot .75 MOA or better.
 
I'd never have a rifle re-barreled again. It cost me more than buying a new rifle and selling the old one. Plus, due to scheduling problems with my gunsmith, it took over 3 months to get it done.

You could buy a cheaper Remington with a synthetic stock and switch actions to use your older wood stock. Or, just sell the old rifle and buy a new one. You'll be shooting within a day or so!

JP
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Good point in fact I found a Weatherby Vanguard (Howa 1500) for 515.00 brand new 'I just couldn't or wouldn't feel right selling a fire arm I know isn't accurate.
 
newbweatherby, One problem with 300RUM on Rem action is you are max out on OAL with 3.600"

You might want to consider

http://wyattsoutdoor.com/product_info.php/cPath/1/products_id/33

I had my 270 Wby build without the Wby freebore and it's throated so I can handle the 170gr Bergers. I didn't build it to shoot factory and you use little less powder.

If you do 300RUM might make up some dummy rd make sure gunsmith doesn't throated it too long.
 
Newbweatherby: I also wouldn't sell any rifle that I knew was unsafe or keyholed bullets, but know that my accuracy standards are way higher than the average hunter. I'd trade/sell a rifle that didn't group 1.5 MOA, but not 4+/- MOA.

After working on people's rifles for years, I've seen many hunters who can't hit paper at 100 yards with a perfect rifle.
 
Thanks for the input and yes
I know what you mean about people who cant shoot.Iam not an expert or am I a novice what is frustrating is I can shoot all the fire arms includington my sons 300 RUM'I have checked recoil lugs mounting screws scope mounts my latest groups looked like I shot a shot gun wide open choke and the bullet holes in the paper were some what oval not clean holes .I have not had a gunsmith check it yet but these are the issues the my bee has .
 
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It is probably time for a new barrel as that rifle was made in 1989 and you have shot a good number of rounds through it. Myself I own the same rifle in .300 H&H mag from 1983, but doubt I have 200 rounds through mine.

If you like the Weatherby cartridge stay with it, you already have the brass and supplies.

I went through the same situation about 7 years ago with a 700 Varmint Special in 25-06. This gun was never better then 1" at 100 yards. I had a Krieger barrel installed in the same caliber and it will now shoot slightly better then 1/2". Think I paid about $450 for the barrel and work. I do not regret it either. At present it has 40 rounds through it as I don't shoot it that often anymore because the areas I hunt are pretty well populated.
 
You can get a Remington barrel called a Remage, that's one with a Savage type nut.

Get the old barrel off and put the new one on, head space, tighten nut good to go.

You can do that as they have the fine Savage type threads instead of the old course ones most rifles have.

If you do one, the a smith is a good choice to remove old barrel (likely needed).

You do more, then you get your own action wrench (you can take the old barrel off with a pipe wrench)

Or get a Savage and don't look back.
 
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