when I casted with it the bullets it made were very nice with one exception, they were casting at about a 361-362 diameter and I had a tuff time running them through my Lee .358 sizer.
My question is will this mold calm down on the size? will smoking it help ? Is there a break in on a six cavity mold that diffrent then a two cavity ?
My Lee two cavity in the same size works great.
Last question. I have some staining on the inside of blocks of my .452 mold caused by beeswax when I lubed the alignment pins, what the best way to remove that brown stain ?
That is a BIG block compared to those little holes. One thing you might try is heating up your alloy, and your mold a bit more before you start casting. Hotter molds pour smaller bullets. If that doesn't work, you might try adding in some pure if you have some. I know that will make them softer, but it will also help to pour a smaller bullet to some extent. Don't get carried away, you only looking to add enough to drop the sizes. Here is a link that speaks somewhat to this effect,
Superhard
I also know darned well I have seen a similar write up which also had a chart which showed something to do with the shrinkage as well. It might have been something about aging the alloy. I have put so much of this through my head over the past couple of years I had to start saving it on Word doc, and even then, I have to remember where I put them. LOL
But if those two don't do it you might just have a mold that has been bored out a bit much. That isn't usually a bad thing as usually they are the other way around. IF you cannot get it to drop in size you might contact Lee and let them know what the issue is. Sometimes they will send you a return label and you can ship the mold back to them with a couple of samples of your over sized bullets and they will replace your mold with a new one. Or you could order a new mold and see if you can find someone who is casting for a rifle that needs that bigger size. A lot of lever actions need the bigger sized bullet to shoot more accurately and avoid leading.
Just some ideas.
As for the staining, if it is simply aesthetics, I wouldn't sweat it too much. If it is actually an issue with the closing or what not you might try cleaning it with some Kroil. That stuff will usually get up under anything. I have a couple like that I have VERY gently used very fine bronze wire cleaning brush on. The type that are similar to a tooth brush not the bore cleaning ones. Sometimes you can find them in a pack of three , bronze, SS, and carbon steel, and the bristles or super fine. I used that and the Kroil with the block as hot as the water from the faucet would get it. I didn't want to get too warm on a hot plate and risk it bowing the block due to some sort of weird quenching effect of the cooler oil. The hot water gets it hot enough I can comfortably hold in my hand so that has to open the pores of the metal up enough to alloy the Kroil to get in and do it's work. I also didn't scrub the area, but simply brushed at it, letting the very tips of the wires do the work. It didn't remove it all, but it did get the majority of it which was fine with me.