My Mauser has this problem where it will fire when opening the bolt. I've noticed it only happens if the safety was engaged then turned off. My hypothesis: the top of the trigger that holds back the firing mechanism is failing and when I start to lift the bolt it slips off the top of the trigger and fires. I think I need to replace the trigger. Any other light anyone else can shed would be helpful.
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Having a weird error with my Mauser 98
- Thread starter Prothe2nd
- Start date
If you have a scope safety on the rifle3 it's probably not installed and fitted correctly.
I have seen this a few times. The safety is supposed to cam the cocking piece back at lease .020" If it doesn't cam the cocking piece back, and if the trigger is pulled the sear is now disengaged and the cocking piece is allowed to go forward a small amount, but the sear cannot intercept the cocking piece, so when the safety is taken off the cocking piece has nothing to hold it back.
A simple fix is to stone the cocking piece back the required amount so the sear can move up and down without touching it, when the safety is engaged.
This is done with the barreled action removed from the stock so you can see the surfaces that need to clear.
Not hard to do, but it may take you a bit of time to stone the clearance into the areas you need it to be.
When done correctly the rifle will operate as you'd expect in the cocking and snapping of the trigger.
When the bolt is cocked and you put the safety "on" you should see the cocking piece cam backwards about the thickness of a match book cover or a bit more. As the safety is taken "off" you see the cocking piece go forward the same amount.
When the safety is "on" you should be able to pull the trigger and have it do nothing at all to the cocking piece because it is not touching it by about .020"
I have seen this a few times. The safety is supposed to cam the cocking piece back at lease .020" If it doesn't cam the cocking piece back, and if the trigger is pulled the sear is now disengaged and the cocking piece is allowed to go forward a small amount, but the sear cannot intercept the cocking piece, so when the safety is taken off the cocking piece has nothing to hold it back.
A simple fix is to stone the cocking piece back the required amount so the sear can move up and down without touching it, when the safety is engaged.
This is done with the barreled action removed from the stock so you can see the surfaces that need to clear.
Not hard to do, but it may take you a bit of time to stone the clearance into the areas you need it to be.
When done correctly the rifle will operate as you'd expect in the cocking and snapping of the trigger.
When the bolt is cocked and you put the safety "on" you should see the cocking piece cam backwards about the thickness of a match book cover or a bit more. As the safety is taken "off" you see the cocking piece go forward the same amount.
When the safety is "on" you should be able to pull the trigger and have it do nothing at all to the cocking piece because it is not touching it by about .020"
Stoning is the process of using a stone like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Professional...=1479435292&sr=8-8&keywords=norton+wet+stones
to rub down (abrade) the surface of the steel to the dimensions you need it to be.
It's like filing the steel, but using a stone because the steel on the cocking piece and sear will be too hard for a file to cut.
I do not know of any videos of how to do it. Maybe someone here that is more computer savvy than I am can help on that note.
My knowledge of computers and the internet fits in a thimble, ---- with room enough left over to store an elephant.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional...=1479435292&sr=8-8&keywords=norton+wet+stones
to rub down (abrade) the surface of the steel to the dimensions you need it to be.
It's like filing the steel, but using a stone because the steel on the cocking piece and sear will be too hard for a file to cut.
I do not know of any videos of how to do it. Maybe someone here that is more computer savvy than I am can help on that note.
My knowledge of computers and the internet fits in a thimble, ---- with room enough left over to store an elephant.
Is it missing the sear spring? The sear should be in tension from the spring and held on the cocking piece. It could also be that either the sear or the cocking piece, or both are worn, or have been messed with by someone along the line in the past 70 to 118 years.
Pretty good view here of how the parts are supposed to interact:
https://youtu.be/WrpcpdwEfPk?t=11m15s
Pretty good view here of how the parts are supposed to interact:
https://youtu.be/WrpcpdwEfPk?t=11m15s
Lets be clear, the problem happens WITHOUT you touching the trigger at all?
First step, take the action out of the stock, and CLEAN it. The trigger, sear, and spring are simple parts, but crud of some kind in the right place CAN cause shallow engagement of the sear and the cocking piece, which could lead to the problem you have.
So could a broken or weak spring.
So could wear on the parts.
So could a trigger job by someone who didn't know enough to do it right...
From my point of view, and no reflection on you, if you need to ask what "stoning" is (in the context of firearms), then you aren't ready to do it, even with a UTube teacher. And stay away from power tools! The "Deadly Dremel" and good intentions have ruined a lot of guns, and gun parts.
So, clean everything first, make sure it isn't a bit of crud, or old oil turned to lacquer keeping things from moving the way they should. Put it back together and see if the problem is still there. IF yes, we go from there...
First step, take the action out of the stock, and CLEAN it. The trigger, sear, and spring are simple parts, but crud of some kind in the right place CAN cause shallow engagement of the sear and the cocking piece, which could lead to the problem you have.
So could a broken or weak spring.
So could wear on the parts.
So could a trigger job by someone who didn't know enough to do it right...
From my point of view, and no reflection on you, if you need to ask what "stoning" is (in the context of firearms), then you aren't ready to do it, even with a UTube teacher. And stay away from power tools! The "Deadly Dremel" and good intentions have ruined a lot of guns, and gun parts.
So, clean everything first, make sure it isn't a bit of crud, or old oil turned to lacquer keeping things from moving the way they should. Put it back together and see if the problem is still there. IF yes, we go from there...
One other possibility.
The striker/firing pin assembly has a square lug underneath it that engages the sear.
And,it follows that the sear,which is a component of the trigger assembly,hooks or catches tht lump under the striker.Wyo is correct,the safety,when engaged,should cam the striker back off of the sear,and when the safety is taken to "fire" the striker is allowed to move forward a bit to re-engage the sear.
A component of the trigger;a couple of lumps that serve as "fulcrums" to aid in releasing the striker.They cam against the underside of the receiver,and draw the sear down.
As designed,the military trigger and sear provide robust sear engagement.The first stage (first "lump" ) draws the sear down to "almost" .Then the second lump comes into play at slightly less mechanical advantage.This is the second stage,the final release.
Good,robust system.UNTIL!!! Somebody monkeys with it." I'm a gonna file the sear" or "I'm a gonna convert it to a single stage trigger"
Either of these,done wrong,will result in inadequate sear engagement.The sear is hanging onto the striker by the thinnest of margins.
Well,the trigger and sear are attached to the receiver.The sear surface of the striker is in the bolt.With a very minimal sear engagement,lifting on the bolt handle will actually lift the striker off the sear,discharging the gun.
Obviously,the gun is red tagged,out of service till repaired.The good news,all of the Mauser trigger parts are available and cheap..You (or your gunsmith) can easily restore it to a safe,original two stage pull,Your gunsmith may need to fit a new lowsafety....OR,you can put in a Timney trigger.hat will give you a crsip,safe,single stage trigger.Let your gunsmith do it.It MIGHT be a drop in,but sometimes...just a little more.You can get a Timney with an integral safety.Then its best to get a commercial type bolt sleeve.
The striker/firing pin assembly has a square lug underneath it that engages the sear.
And,it follows that the sear,which is a component of the trigger assembly,hooks or catches tht lump under the striker.Wyo is correct,the safety,when engaged,should cam the striker back off of the sear,and when the safety is taken to "fire" the striker is allowed to move forward a bit to re-engage the sear.
A component of the trigger;a couple of lumps that serve as "fulcrums" to aid in releasing the striker.They cam against the underside of the receiver,and draw the sear down.
As designed,the military trigger and sear provide robust sear engagement.The first stage (first "lump" ) draws the sear down to "almost" .Then the second lump comes into play at slightly less mechanical advantage.This is the second stage,the final release.
Good,robust system.UNTIL!!! Somebody monkeys with it." I'm a gonna file the sear" or "I'm a gonna convert it to a single stage trigger"
Either of these,done wrong,will result in inadequate sear engagement.The sear is hanging onto the striker by the thinnest of margins.
Well,the trigger and sear are attached to the receiver.The sear surface of the striker is in the bolt.With a very minimal sear engagement,lifting on the bolt handle will actually lift the striker off the sear,discharging the gun.
Obviously,the gun is red tagged,out of service till repaired.The good news,all of the Mauser trigger parts are available and cheap..You (or your gunsmith) can easily restore it to a safe,original two stage pull,Your gunsmith may need to fit a new lowsafety....OR,you can put in a Timney trigger.hat will give you a crsip,safe,single stage trigger.Let your gunsmith do it.It MIGHT be a drop in,but sometimes...just a little more.You can get a Timney with an integral safety.Then its best to get a commercial type bolt sleeve.