Having a pistol drilled & tapped
- Thread starter Buzzard
- Start date
scgunsmith
New member
depending on what type of mount, normally 35-45.00 for 1st class work
Harry Bonar
New member
Drilling Super Blackhawk
Dear Buzzard:
If you get the proper mount you'll have to remove the rear sight, into which the mount will locate.
Now, you can do this if you're handy and careful!
Coat the top strap with layout dye, and line the mount up perfectly in line with the bbl and top strap and with a scriber scribe around one of the holes in the base! You can also with your calipers measure the thickness of the top strap, divide it in half and lightly make a line working from both sides of the strap which will make a center line which your screws should follow. (there may be a rear hole in mount and the top strap that they use as one of the mount screws simplifying your task).
Center-punch that hole in CENTER and drill with a drill smaller than your no. 31 drill for 6X48. Then "ream" the hole with the 31# drill and with the 6X48 tap square in the hole tap about three threads, back out and go deeper (It's not nrcessary to go through the top strap but will not harm it) until you're pretty deep. Use cutting oil!
Then screw the mount on with the one screw and the projection in the sight slot, now empty.
Now, use a flat true rule to lay along-side the mount and see if you need to go right or left slightly to get it parallel with the strap and bbl!
Without moving the mount scribe the other holes and repeat the process be sure to get the circles you've scribed punched in the CENTER!
It's that simple!
If you feel the least trepidation then find a smith that KNOWS HOW to do this and entrust it to him.
We, you and I are made to think by gunsmiths with "super-egos" that we know nothing! How did the first gunsmiths learn their trade? By doing it on their own! You can do this.
Hope I've helped Harry B.
Dear Buzzard:
If you get the proper mount you'll have to remove the rear sight, into which the mount will locate.
Now, you can do this if you're handy and careful!
Coat the top strap with layout dye, and line the mount up perfectly in line with the bbl and top strap and with a scriber scribe around one of the holes in the base! You can also with your calipers measure the thickness of the top strap, divide it in half and lightly make a line working from both sides of the strap which will make a center line which your screws should follow. (there may be a rear hole in mount and the top strap that they use as one of the mount screws simplifying your task).
Center-punch that hole in CENTER and drill with a drill smaller than your no. 31 drill for 6X48. Then "ream" the hole with the 31# drill and with the 6X48 tap square in the hole tap about three threads, back out and go deeper (It's not nrcessary to go through the top strap but will not harm it) until you're pretty deep. Use cutting oil!
Then screw the mount on with the one screw and the projection in the sight slot, now empty.
Now, use a flat true rule to lay along-side the mount and see if you need to go right or left slightly to get it parallel with the strap and bbl!
Without moving the mount scribe the other holes and repeat the process be sure to get the circles you've scribed punched in the CENTER!
It's that simple!
If you feel the least trepidation then find a smith that KNOWS HOW to do this and entrust it to him.
We, you and I are made to think by gunsmiths with "super-egos" that we know nothing! How did the first gunsmiths learn their trade? By doing it on their own! You can do this.
Hope I've helped Harry B.
Harry Bonar
New member
drilling and taping
Atta-Boy - Buzzard!!
Harry Bonar
Atta-Boy - Buzzard!!
Harry Bonar
Hunter Customs
New member
Buzzard,
Drilling and tapping is not that difficult with the right tools. If you have access to a mill with a good vise this will be a big help in drilling the holes accurately. If not try and use a good drill press that does not have a lot of run out and a good vise clamped to the drill press table. If you use a spotting drill or center drill to drill a small detent first it will help in keeping your other drill bit from walking on you. Also you may want to chamfer the top of the hole before you start your tap. Go slow and use cutting oil for both the drilling and tapping. It might be best if you have an old block of steel to do a few practice holes of drilling and tapping so you can get the feel for it.
Make sure and start your tap straight; do not get your tap in a bind and break it as they can be a real chore to remove.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
Drilling and tapping is not that difficult with the right tools. If you have access to a mill with a good vise this will be a big help in drilling the holes accurately. If not try and use a good drill press that does not have a lot of run out and a good vise clamped to the drill press table. If you use a spotting drill or center drill to drill a small detent first it will help in keeping your other drill bit from walking on you. Also you may want to chamfer the top of the hole before you start your tap. Go slow and use cutting oil for both the drilling and tapping. It might be best if you have an old block of steel to do a few practice holes of drilling and tapping so you can get the feel for it.
Make sure and start your tap straight; do not get your tap in a bind and break it as they can be a real chore to remove.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
Harry Bonar
New member
drilling and tapping
Dear BUZZARD:
Listen to Bob Hunter; I used to use a mill to do this and it is the "ultimate drill-press."
Novaks, for whom I used to work with my late son Joe Bonar (killed by a drunk driving piece of ------) let me use his tools that I did much work for him in my own shop on, he needed his 3 milling machines back. That's O.K. - I'm 70 now and am getting a new mill in the spring for my own projects.
Bob Hunter is absolutely right on - a mill is the best way to do it - enen starting the tap absolutely correctly too!
I've gotten so used to using a cordless drill (on through jobs) that I can do it just fine. I've tapped so many holes (in metal?) I'm pretty good at that too - but Bob's right on.
Harry B.
Dear BUZZARD:
Listen to Bob Hunter; I used to use a mill to do this and it is the "ultimate drill-press."
Novaks, for whom I used to work with my late son Joe Bonar (killed by a drunk driving piece of ------) let me use his tools that I did much work for him in my own shop on, he needed his 3 milling machines back. That's O.K. - I'm 70 now and am getting a new mill in the spring for my own projects.
Bob Hunter is absolutely right on - a mill is the best way to do it - enen starting the tap absolutely correctly too!
I've gotten so used to using a cordless drill (on through jobs) that I can do it just fine. I've tapped so many holes (in metal?) I'm pretty good at that too - but Bob's right on.
Harry B.