Have you ever "drift adjusted" your sights?

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DougB

New member
I used to think that I had two requirements for handguns: (1) adjustable sights, and (2) made of stainless steel. Most of the handguns I've bought in the past few years have neither (I just can't pass up the deals on Makarovs, PA63s, Kel-Tecs, CZs, etc.). These are decent, functional, guns, but it is frustrating that they often don't shoot to point of aim for me. Most of these have the rear sight dovetailed in place and often described as "drift adjustable." I gather that you can tap them with a brass rod or something to adjust them. Does anyone actually do this? I don't have a brass rod handy, and even if I get one, I'm not sure I want to pound away on my new CZ-75 PCR. I've used sight pusher tools on my AKs and SKS rifles that work fine. Is there anything like this for adjusting pistol sights? I know I could have adjustable sights added to some of these - but in some cases, the sights would cost more than the pistol, and once the gun is sighted in, I'd probably never adjust the sights again.

Any advice will be appreciated.

Doug
 
I'm not aware of any special-purpose tools.

I've drifted the sights on several semi-autos. I just use a padded vise, hammer and whatever is available. Marks on the side of the rear sight don't bother me.

I would think a spent cartridge casing could be used as a brass "punch". Just a thought.
 
Brownell's does sell a tool (rather expensive)
for rear sights on auto's. I will add this it
can be done by a punch but usually a bad finish
will be the normal results. Also I have found
most sights are fine, most times it is "hold",
finger on trigger placement, or a poor trigger.
Shooting with a rest is the only way to know for sure.
 
I have done it several times. I use a brass rod and small hammer that came in a little gunsmithing punch set that I got via Midway a few years ago. Sometimes the sights are hard to get to move. Sometimes a little ding on the sight is the inevitable result of the process. It is worth it to me to get the gun to shoot to point of aim. Most of the time no adjustment is necessary.
 
I recommend the sight adjusting tool, but a brass punch works just fine. Try to keep the punch as near to the base and the heavy part of the sight as possible so as not to mar the thinner upper part. Some rear sights are staked in place and when you get the sight set as you want, you may want to restore the staking to keep it in place. Be careful though, as some rear sights (example: the P.38) look like they might be drift adjustable but are not.

Jim
 
For a cheap brass "punch", get a 3/16" piece of brazing rod from your local welding supply shop for about a buck. They come in 3' lengths. Cut off a 6" piece. When the ends are too mushroomed to use, cut a little off both ends and it's as good as new (albeit a little shorter ;) ). It'll last you forever.
 
I "drift" adjusted a Ruger about 4 or 5 months ago with a plastic hammer, as suggested in the manual. I still haven't got full feeling back in my left thumb. I contacted Brownells about one of their sight movers, the one for just a little over $100. They got no response from the manufacturer. They did contact, and get a reply from, another supplier. Theirs does work with thr Rugers, price $400+. I'm going to a vice and brass punch for fine tuning.
 
I have used a piece of very hard Oak that I fashioned into a punch. If this will get the sight to move for you, it won't leave dents.
 
In the early '80s we were taught to use brass drifts or punches to move the rear sight. Modernly, every mfg seems to have a special "sight pusher" which does the same job. Unfortunately, unlike the inexpensive rod suggested by Jeff/CA, the mfg's model ususally cost about $100!

Mind you, when you have tritium sights, it's best to use a sight pusher. Breaking a sight won't do and as one employee suggested to another, since it's worn on the hip, the escaping radioactive gas causes sterility and impotency. ;)
 
I have used and abused a few sight tools over the years. All have been purchased from Brownells.

MGW makes one for specific models of handguns. They are ok, but after numerous installations they don't hold up.

Next I used the Pi Systems semiauto model. It is still intact, but, is dangerous to use because the plastic pieces that "hold" the slide in place do anything but that. Result is that the slide has a tendency to cant and you run the risk of gouging your frame if you don't pay attention to what you are doing. Another major complaint is that the knob to move the sight pusher provides no leverage whatsoever, so you need to break out a big wrench just to turn the knob to move the sight. This is on their "cheap 100 dollar" model. Unfortunately, their "professional" model uses the same style of slide retention pieces as their inexpensive model.

I did purchase the Kimber/Meprolight model recently. So far it is a pleasure to use. Heavy duty. Built like a vise. Pushing even the tightest Sig sight is quite easy with the tool. After 8 sight installations it is still going strong and has its own special installation now on my workbench.
 
I always used a brass or nylon punch, but several years ago somebody sold a few pushers that were based on an automatic center punch.

I made my own by buying a cheap auto punch and brazing a brass head onto the end of the punch.

Simply put it on the side of the sight and push until it "fires". This will move the sight slightly. If it moves too much, adjust the punch for a lighter hit.
 
Thanks for all the helpful comments. I'm going to have to try some of the lower cost ideas suggested. Too bad somebody doesn't design an adjustable, universal pusher that can be fitted to any handgun, and costs about $50. Now THAT would sell (to me, anyway). I may try the automatic center punch modified as suggested by dferiswheel - there's an idea that hadn't occured to me. Anyway, all comments are much appreciated (and please feel free to continue sharing ideas and experiences).

Doug
 
Here's a better way, borrow one.....someone at the range should have one and even know how to use it...a cup of coffee and a little harmless lie like, "hey, you're quite good shot" will get you pretty far.....
 
I went to the hardware store, bought a 6 inch long 1/4" brass bolt, and use it as a "brass punch" to drift my sights. Cost was less than a dollar.
 
Shawn Dodson:

You're a genius! Tried using the 1/4" brass bolt (local cost $1.25). Put the P944 in a vise, padded the jaws with foam insulation tape, and just tapped the bolt with a small ball peen. Sights moved! That's about $524 less than the Brownell's super duper sight mover!
 
I always drifted my sights with a mallet/plastic hammer. The precision is not the same as with a sight tool but it´s cheaper and good enough for me.

No marks (never) in the slides or sights (front or rear).
 
I just "drift adjusted" a new set of Heinie sights in place on one of my Glock 19s. I replaced the stock sights. Not a very easy job but I used a brass punch,masking tape and a dab of cold blue at the end. They still look like new! Love a little Heinie (sights that is)! :D
 
I installed night sights in a Glock once with a 158gr LSWC bullet, since I had misplaced my tools and am not very patient.

The leadmark was removed with my kids eraser.
 
One learns the meaning of a one-click whack....

By the way. a threaded brass rod makes a heck of stuck bullet remover. It will not damage a steel barrel with any reasonable use.
I use 5/16" for .356 to .452 barrels. 3/16" should do for .22s. 1/4" for .30 and so on.

They are available in various lengths. I got mine at OSH. Probably most good sized hardware stores should have them.
 
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