Hard to open colts

E

Eazyeach

New member
Just bought a bunch of different colt revolvers! They've been sitting neglected for years but they look great. My only problem so far is they are super hard to open the cylinders. Is this typical of the brand? I've never had any revolvers other than S&W. thanks in advance. Y'all are great with helping a newbie collector.
 
Colt's are typically easier to open then S&W revolvers.

As above, lubricate them. Old dried lubricants dry into a "varnish" that can act almost like a glue on tight fitting parts.
 
I agree, but I would remove the grips (presumably wood) and spray or soak the gun using Kroil or a penetrant like G96 Gun Treatment. General gun oil is too thick to get into the crevices that are probably gummed up. Once things are free, use a good gun oil to lubricate the insides. I do NOT recommend taking those Colts apart unless you know what you are doing.

Jim
 
Please don't be offended by this:
But, the Colt's cylinder release is pushed to the rear as opposed to S&W being pushed toward the cylinder. If you are able to open them at all you are probably doing it right.

Just checking...
 
I'll try that kroil Jim. Should I use regular or silicone kroil? And yes rodger I know how the colt release works. Thanks though because I could see how someone might not know.
 
I bought a late 1920s early 1930s Police Positive Special .32-20 a couple of years ago.

The cylinder was extremely stiff, as was the action.

I pulled the sideplate and, as I suspected, the lubricant had turned into impediment.

I soaked it in mineral spirits, flushed it out with brake cleaner, and then relubricated.

All is right with the world, now.
 
Don't try to open them much until you oil the crane and let it soak in. Repeated opening attempts will gall the crane shaft and ruin it. Use Kroil or some other penetrating oil, let it soak for few days.......then try to open it. You can even put it in the oven (remove grips first) with penetrating oil and heat it up to no more than 150 degrees. That opens up the fits and lets the oil do it work easier. After it frees up, remove the crane, wash out the penetrating oil and grease the crane shaft. Penetrating oil is not a good high pressure lubricate so you don't want to leave it on there.
 
As above, lubricate them. Old dried lubricants dry into a "varnish" that can act almost like a glue on tight fitting parts.
Click to expand...

Especially WD-40.:mad:

As others have suggested, mineral spirits followed by a good hosing out with Walmart carb cleaner will do wonders.
 
It's not all over if you have to take one apart. I flew in blind having to replace a bolt in mine and I got it back together completely with no instructions. Just take your time and it will be pretty easy to figure out how it all locks up together. Fantastic works of art they are but very delicate. Don't force anything!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top