hard mauser?

K

kentucky_smith

New member
Getting a k98 drilled and tapped, but gunsmith has run into a problem. He says the action may be too hard. So far he broke a new bit at first attempt. So he took it into machine shop to anneal it. No luck so far. He said he had one more thing to try before he gave up. He also mentioned that this is the first time in over 30 years he's run into this problem on a Mauser. He said he could drill it with carbide, but still be out of luck tapping it.

Any similar stories or tips?
 
hard mauser

Dear Sir:
I've never heard of a mauser that through the outside skin cannot be drilled!
I use an undersize drill and get the hole at least down to the internal case hardening inside the reciever ring and then ream with a no. 31 drill.
There are several reasons for his belated attempts but the first thing that really troubles me is the attempt to anneal the ring!
First, this may be a mauser that the entire ring was hardened - does it have a crest on it? If it does (is this a WWII action?) then it can be drilled and if the crest has been partially ground off it can be drilled! Many mausers had the crest rolled, or pressed in possibly prior to carburizing but most (all I've ever seen) are soft on to and then as you drill down you'll hit the carburized inner surface and STOP!
It may have been re-heat-treated! Enough carbon may have been added to prevent drilling!
Even the VZ24s' the finest WWII actions made readilly drill and tap just fine.
Is this a "commercial" mauser? In which case it is possibly made of "alloy" steel which will harden clear through.
Foot-note: The Rockwell "C" reading on the top or bottom of the action ought not to be over 40 "C" scale, if it is bhe careful.
ALL Mausers are made of the "10" series (SAE) and are then carburized in many ways - I am completely stumpted!!

I'll leave it here for now!
Harry B.
 
It's a German K98, made in 1940. 42 Code means Mauser-Werke AG, Oberndorf a./N, early code.

So, should I tell him to try again with small bit.
 
hard Mauser:

Dear Sir:
Back again.
Forgive my comments to follow: I have a thought that is not meant to be demeaning of anyones work, I hate to even suggest it - but I'm wondering about the manner in which this work is being done. In my 50 years of drilling and tapping Mausers I have NEVER had this occur!
I think I, in my first post was just blowing smoke! I've never had this occur!
Were the holes center-punched? If they were the holes will drill!
Are you sure this is a K98 Mauser? Has it ever been cut down, the barrel changed, the bolt handle welded - sporterized? Is it a "large ring" 98 Mauser with a 1.400" reciever ring?
I would love to see this and have it in my shop! I'm sorry you're having trouble.
Harry B.
 
I worry about his "annealing " it ???.My own Mauser is also a 42 Oberndorf which was spotty as far as case hardening . Some places very hard and some very soft. So I had it recarburized and they heat treated it to 45 Rc which can be drilled. He should have 'tempered' it to about 45 Rc surface hardness . Hard to say more unless I saw it , send it to Harry !
 
I agree with Harry, I have never seen a K.98k that hard, and a 1940 Mauser should be an excellent rifle.* I wonder if something may have happened to that rifle, like being in a fire or being the subject of some earlier "gunsmith" attempt to harden it.

A good standard carbon bit should cut into that action, or if not, a carbide bit certainly should. (If he does not know about carbide taps, I wonder how experienced he is.) I assume he is using a proper jig and not trying to "eyeball" the drill. As to annealing, done properly, it is OK for drilling hard receivers like the M1903 and M1903A3; the heat needs to be confined to a small area, not over about 1/4".

*Maybe it is already too late, but a 1940 Mauser K.98k in original condition is worth quite a nice piece of change; sporterizing it will reduce the value to just another surplus hunting rifle.

Keenan's definitions: Sporterizing - Making a $200 rifle out of a $1200 rifle and paying $400 to do it.

Jim
 
Keenan's definitions: Sporterizing - Making a $200 rifle out of a $1200 rifle and paying $400 to do it.
Click to expand...
LOL. I like that! May I use that quote? I'll give you credit for it. :)
That reminds me of a comment in a thread regarding rechambering a .222 to .223 . One poster said, "Anyone who would do that should have his fingers broken and his tools taken away.":D
 
Feel free to use the quote. Back when I was working as a gunsmith, I sporterized many rifles that proved my point. I did quite a few M1903, M1917, and K.98k rifles that now bring maybe $200; if they had been left alone, they would bring a grand or more, easily. I never really liked to do it, and my own milsurp collection is in original condition, but money is money and my job was to keep the customer happy, not tell him he was a damned fool.

Of course, in 1963, say, a M1903A3 was $14 from DCM or $30 on the market. A Remington 721 was $90 and a Winchester 70 $129. Paying a few bucks for a quick drill and tap job seemed to make sense to most guys.

Jim
 
Thanks!
In '81, I bought a really nice 1942 Smith Corona '03A3 for $150. I had a number of friends say, "That'll make a really nice sporter."
I asked them, "Why would I want to destroy a collector's item?" If I want a sporter, I'll buy a sporter. Or build one on a modern action. Or build my own action.:)
I also used to work as a gunsmith (for my Dad) until I started my current job as a machinist in '79. I still do my own gunsmithing and a few side jobs for friends.
I posted some pictures of some of my projects in this thread.
 
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