Handloading the 6.5mm Creedmore

cdoc42

New member
I bought a Kimber Model 84M Hunter in 6.5mm Creedmore and I'd appreciate it if those who already load it would share some recipes.

I read about this caliber on Wikipedia and it discussed blown primers on the first shot if pressure was at 62,000psi (when the caliber was initially introduced). Hornady apparently adjusted their loads to 57,000psi as a result. Checking the Hodgdon site using a 130gr Nos AB and 123gr Sierra HPBT, the highest pressure listed for any max load is 61,500. There are 25 loads listed and only 12 are under 60,00psi. 7 loads are in the 60,000psi range and none are lower than 58,300psi.

Has anyone had a problem with blown primers using the usual manual data?

I get the impression from reading articles in several areas that the most accurate bullets range from 120 to 140gr. Hornady supposedly uses H4350 in factory loads, but recommendations included RE17, Hybrid V 100,Superformance, W760 and Varget.

Thanks for your info in advance.
 
If primers were blowing using published data, the company that published it would get sued. Published data(that are averages anyway) is safe.
"...Hornady supposedly uses..." Ammo makers don't use the same powders we can get. They load to produce a specific range of velocities and pressures. They don't publish pressures or what components they use either.
In any case, a load that shoots well out of one rifle quite possibly will not out of another. That's why you have to work up the load for your rifle.
Lyman usually has an accuracy load in their manual. I've found it's a good place to start. Usually stop there too.
 
Get yourself 140 grain Sierra or Hornady ELD-X. Push those pills with H-4350. That seems to be a very good combo that gives good results in many rifles.
 
I use the hornady 140 eld-m's. Just bought a box of the 140 Berger hybrid target's and nosler long range accubonds to try, haven't shot them yet(accubonds are going to be for critters, not paper)

Use H4350. Hands down. Imr4451 may get higher velocities, but isn't as temp stable as H4350.

I also am looking into cutting edge 143's but at a buck a bullet, may not be worth it.

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OP describes your rifle as a Kimber 84 "Hunter". Presumably you want hunting not target loads. Sierra 120 gr. Pro Hunters will zip out of your lightweight 22" barrel with plenty of velocity long before you start flirting with excess pressure. Call Sierra's tech line; a friendly guy will answer the phone and give you several recommendations for powder and charges. As a bonus, you'll likely get great accuracy to go with a super whitetail killer.
 
Oh, bullfooey, I had 6/20 blown primers on 6.5CM winchester factory ammo.

Pun-ctuation doesn"t matter? Does it!
 
I just cant rap my self around the idea of pushing the limit.

Velocity does not mean accuracy. Often its a deterrent.

The 6.5 CM is an extremely accurate round. Its a highly effective hunting round. There is zero reason to push the 140/143 past 2700 fps even when hunting elk size animals.

My wife wanted me to work with her on long range shooting. I'm not a fan of husbands teaching wives to shoot so I sent her to the Gunwerks. She wanted to use her 243 because of her broken back she cant handle recoil. Gunwerks require you to use their rifles. They gave her a 6.5 CM with a brake which she was able to shoot. And she got hooked on the CM.

She brought back some of the Hornady ammo she used. 140 gn. Amax, 2700 fps.

I bought her a RPR, and figured the Hornady engineer knew more then I did, I loaded the Amax to 2700 fps. I was so impressed with the round I bought a Ruger American Predator to have a light antelope gun.

Like everyone else, I started with H4350. It worked quite well. But its rare in this area so when I ran out I tried Win 760. I loaded 41.7 gr in both 4350 and 760. Using the same bullet, they went the same place, plus both ran about 2700 fps.

My kid gave me some 142 Nosler 6.5 Accrubonds. With the same powder charge they shot the same place.

Yesterday I tried some of hornady's 143s, not quite impressed, shot good, but I think I need to tweak them a bit, or maybe stick to the Nosler's. Between wife and I we got 4 antelope the first of the month and the Nosler's worked better then expected. No long range kills, the longest was a bit over 400 yards, but looking at what the Nosler did, I have no doubt they would work at long range.

For punching paper or hitting steel, at the modist 2700 fps the 140-143s remain super sonic to 1700 yards. I see no reason to push the limit. I have no pressure issues what so ever.

Again velocity does not equate to accuracy. I don't can how fast a bullet is, if its not accurate, I don't want it.
 
I just cant rap my self around the idea of pushing the limit.

Velocity does not mean accuracy. Often its a deterrent.

The 6.5 CM is an extremely accurate round. Its a highly effective hunting round. There is zero reason to push the 140/143 past 2700 fps even when hunting elk size animals.

My wife wanted me to work with her on long range shooting. I'm not a fan of husbands teaching wives to shoot so I sent her to the Gunwerks. She wanted to use her 243 because of her broken back she cant handle recoil. Gunwerks require you to use their rifles. They gave her a 6.5 CM with a brake which she was able to shoot. And she got hooked on the CM.

She brought back some of the Hornady ammo she used. 140 gn. Amax, 2700 fps.

I bought her a RPR, and figured the Hornady engineer knew more then I did, I loaded the Amax to 2700 fps. I was so impressed with the round I bought a Ruger American Predator to have a light antelope gun.

Like everyone else, I started with H4350. It worked quite well. But its rare in this area so when I ran out I tried Win 760. I loaded 41.7 gr in both 4350 and 760. Using the same bullet, they went the same place, plus both ran about 2700 fps.

My kid gave me some 142 Nosler 6.5 Accrubonds. With the same powder charge they shot the same place.

Yesterday I tried some of hornady's 143s, not quite impressed, shot good, but I think I need to tweak them a bit, or maybe stick to the Nosler's. Between wife and I we got 4 antelope the first of the month and the Nosler's worked better then expected. No long range kills, the longest was a bit over 400 yards, but looking at what the Nosler did, I have no doubt they would work at long range.

For punching paper or hitting steel, at the modist 2700 fps the 140-143s remain super sonic to 1700 yards. I see no reason to push the limit. I have no pressure issues what so ever.

Again velocity does not equate to accuracy. I don't can how fast a bullet is, if its not accurate, I don't want it.
Some guys drive Ferraris... Some guys drive Jeeps... And some guys try to put 1000 horsepower engines into Jeeps.

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I built 5 rifles for hunting in 2016.
The two I killed with had the same type of stock as an 84M, but were on a Rem700 6mmBR and Win M70 pre 64 25-06.
I pierced 5 primers working up the 6mmBR load. The bolt was very hard to lift when cocking the bolt. The primers were CCI450. I was at 95 gr NBT moly 1.2" 31 gr 4451. I disassembled and cleaned out the Rem 700 bolt and reduced to 29 gr 2800 fps. I sighted in at 200, 300, 400, and 500y. Opening day I shot two antelope at 158 and 250y.

Last year I built a 6.5-06 on a Mauser and sighted in out to 600y. I shot a deer at 629y. I worked up with IMR4166 120 gr nos bal tip moly 3.34" until the extractor groove showed some change on the dial calipers. I reduced 2 gr. to 50.7 gr 3200 fps.

The 6.5 Creedmore has a large primer pocket like the 6.5-06 and will take the same amount of pressure before the primer pocket starts to yield.

That should have happened before the primer pierced.

So when you work up the Creedmore, stop when the extractor groove grows and back off a safety margin. Do not work up to primer piercing.
 
I recommend loading up to an accuracy level below the max book charge. Not because the brass can't take it or it is too unsafe, but because barrel life diminishes rapidly once you start pushing more pressure higher than necessary. It's also why I don't necessarily like the 264 Win Mag or 6.5 Rem Mag. I know barrels are a wear part, but I'm cheap.

Jimro
 
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