wachtelhund1
New member
Though I would share this with members.
Here is my CZ 527 .223 Rem. Love this gun. This last spring I laid up my own carbon / kelvar stock with epoxy resin. I imbedded aluminum for the action and floor plate; aluminum support for the sling studs, 3/4 walnut plate for the butt pad and then filled it with low density expanding foam. Total weight - 28 oz. I was going to paint it textured tan, but it looked neat, so I sprayed it with UV protecting clear.
The black strands were the carbon filaments and the yellow were the kelvar stands in the carbon/kelvar fabric.
I built this stock for two reasons: First, I had a PVS-2 night vision scope mounted on this rifle for coyotes. The PVS-2 is a Vietnam vintage night scope which performs very well, but weighs 6 plus pounds. And is why I added the higher comb. Second, I have a H&K 630 that I would like to build another stock for it. So this was my test.
So how did I make this? I started with a casting of the original CZ 527 stock. I began with the inside for the action and barrel channel. First I taped off the outside with clear packing tape. Next, I applied liberal amounts of axle grease to the inside and out side as a release agent. Then the scary part; I mixed and packed the inside with Bondo in two steps. First from the top because of a step in the original stock. After it set, smeared more axle grease on the Bondo from the bottom floor plate area and then packed in Bondo from the bottom. After it set, several minutes, I sanded off the top of the Bondo flush with the stock, not standing through the clear tape, next the bottom floor plate. I had put straws in the action screw holes. I drill a hole through the bottom Bondo and used a 1/4" bolt to gently hammered out the upper Bondo casting. This was not easy, but the top inside of the stock came out in one piece as did the bottom. This gave me a casting of the action and barrel channel.
Next step was a plaster casting of the outside of the stock. I had made a casting box with some 1/8" clear plastic, a box about 2" larger than stock when laid in on its side and 4" high. This was just taped together with packaging tape. I re-inserted the Bondo casting and again, I smeared liberal amounts of axle grease over the clear plastic tape on the outside of the stock and Bondo castings, and the inside of the box. I mixed several quarts of plaster of paris and quickly poured about 2" high into the box. I pressed one side of the stock into the plaster of paris while still liquid. The stock on its side was half way into the plaster. I stood bullets into the plaster paris for registration pins. Next day, I smeared more axle grease over the top of the plaster of prais and cover it and the stock with more plaster of paris.
I let this cure for a day, then cut the seems of the box and peeled away the plastic. Gently, I pried the top plaster of paris off the stock and bottom plaster of paris. This was a casting of one side of the stock. Then I lifted out the stock leaving a casing of the other side of the stock.
This gave me four castings; top inside of the stock, bottom of the stock, and two sides of the stock.
For the lay up: I purchased one yard of carbon / kelvar cloth, 36X45" off EBay, about $35.00. I used about a 5th of this. Cutting it was difficult as the woven fibers separated when cut. I used epoxy resin left over from a duck boat build several year earlier. I used about a pint of resin. Use epoxy resin as it does not smell like polyester resin and cleans up with vinegar.
I started with the upper Bondo casting turned upside down on wax paper taped to a piece of plastic. First applied axle grease and then several coats of resin. Then started applying small pieces of the carbon / kelvar cloth, 1x2" pieces. You want to press the cloth into the resin so it is saturated, applying more resin. With one layer of cloth over the action, I placed a piece of flat 1/8" alumimum, cut out to fit over the action openings, but not stud and support areas. Then more resin and cloth until it was an 1/8 to 3/16" thick. I imbedded some 1/2 x 1/16" aluminum from the action area extending over the barrel channel for stiffness. Always working while the resin was wet. The next day when cured, I removed it from the Bondo and I had the action and barrel channelcasting. This was very stiff and I could hit it on a surface with no flexing, it weighed about six ounces.
Next, I greased each stock side casting. Applied two coats of resin and laid in pieces of cloth, resin and cloth. Here a thickness of 1/16 to 1/8" is enough. After these had cured, I trimmed the three pieces where needed so that they would fit together, the action and barrel channel, left and right stock sides. I epoxied the two sides together at the bottom seams by laying in several layers of resin and cloth, including some flat aluminum for the sling studs. In the grip area, I shaped and epoxied in two pieces of 1/2" high density insulation board. Epoxy was mixed with wood flour to a peanut butter thickness to glue in the foam and fill any voids in the grip area. I also inserted the grease floor plate casting. At this time the action and barrel channel was just taped into place. After the two sides set, the action and barrel channel was epoxied into place.
The front of the action area was epoxied closed with the epoxy and wood flour mixiture. This left a hollow forend. Holes were drilled in the barrel channel to spray in expanding insulation foam, then sealed with epoxy resin. A piece of walnut wood was cut to fit into the butt area and epoxied in to provide a flat surface for the butt pad. I just epoxied on a piece 1/4" rubber mat, sanded to the shape of the stock. A center hole was drilled into the wood and expanding foam sprayed in the butt area. And a stock is made!
Here is my CZ 527 .223 Rem. Love this gun. This last spring I laid up my own carbon / kelvar stock with epoxy resin. I imbedded aluminum for the action and floor plate; aluminum support for the sling studs, 3/4 walnut plate for the butt pad and then filled it with low density expanding foam. Total weight - 28 oz. I was going to paint it textured tan, but it looked neat, so I sprayed it with UV protecting clear.
The black strands were the carbon filaments and the yellow were the kelvar stands in the carbon/kelvar fabric.
I built this stock for two reasons: First, I had a PVS-2 night vision scope mounted on this rifle for coyotes. The PVS-2 is a Vietnam vintage night scope which performs very well, but weighs 6 plus pounds. And is why I added the higher comb. Second, I have a H&K 630 that I would like to build another stock for it. So this was my test.
So how did I make this? I started with a casting of the original CZ 527 stock. I began with the inside for the action and barrel channel. First I taped off the outside with clear packing tape. Next, I applied liberal amounts of axle grease to the inside and out side as a release agent. Then the scary part; I mixed and packed the inside with Bondo in two steps. First from the top because of a step in the original stock. After it set, smeared more axle grease on the Bondo from the bottom floor plate area and then packed in Bondo from the bottom. After it set, several minutes, I sanded off the top of the Bondo flush with the stock, not standing through the clear tape, next the bottom floor plate. I had put straws in the action screw holes. I drill a hole through the bottom Bondo and used a 1/4" bolt to gently hammered out the upper Bondo casting. This was not easy, but the top inside of the stock came out in one piece as did the bottom. This gave me a casting of the action and barrel channel.
Next step was a plaster casting of the outside of the stock. I had made a casting box with some 1/8" clear plastic, a box about 2" larger than stock when laid in on its side and 4" high. This was just taped together with packaging tape. I re-inserted the Bondo casting and again, I smeared liberal amounts of axle grease over the clear plastic tape on the outside of the stock and Bondo castings, and the inside of the box. I mixed several quarts of plaster of paris and quickly poured about 2" high into the box. I pressed one side of the stock into the plaster of paris while still liquid. The stock on its side was half way into the plaster. I stood bullets into the plaster paris for registration pins. Next day, I smeared more axle grease over the top of the plaster of prais and cover it and the stock with more plaster of paris.
I let this cure for a day, then cut the seems of the box and peeled away the plastic. Gently, I pried the top plaster of paris off the stock and bottom plaster of paris. This was a casting of one side of the stock. Then I lifted out the stock leaving a casing of the other side of the stock.
This gave me four castings; top inside of the stock, bottom of the stock, and two sides of the stock.
For the lay up: I purchased one yard of carbon / kelvar cloth, 36X45" off EBay, about $35.00. I used about a 5th of this. Cutting it was difficult as the woven fibers separated when cut. I used epoxy resin left over from a duck boat build several year earlier. I used about a pint of resin. Use epoxy resin as it does not smell like polyester resin and cleans up with vinegar.
I started with the upper Bondo casting turned upside down on wax paper taped to a piece of plastic. First applied axle grease and then several coats of resin. Then started applying small pieces of the carbon / kelvar cloth, 1x2" pieces. You want to press the cloth into the resin so it is saturated, applying more resin. With one layer of cloth over the action, I placed a piece of flat 1/8" alumimum, cut out to fit over the action openings, but not stud and support areas. Then more resin and cloth until it was an 1/8 to 3/16" thick. I imbedded some 1/2 x 1/16" aluminum from the action area extending over the barrel channel for stiffness. Always working while the resin was wet. The next day when cured, I removed it from the Bondo and I had the action and barrel channelcasting. This was very stiff and I could hit it on a surface with no flexing, it weighed about six ounces.
Next, I greased each stock side casting. Applied two coats of resin and laid in pieces of cloth, resin and cloth. Here a thickness of 1/16 to 1/8" is enough. After these had cured, I trimmed the three pieces where needed so that they would fit together, the action and barrel channel, left and right stock sides. I epoxied the two sides together at the bottom seams by laying in several layers of resin and cloth, including some flat aluminum for the sling studs. In the grip area, I shaped and epoxied in two pieces of 1/2" high density insulation board. Epoxy was mixed with wood flour to a peanut butter thickness to glue in the foam and fill any voids in the grip area. I also inserted the grease floor plate casting. At this time the action and barrel channel was just taped into place. After the two sides set, the action and barrel channel was epoxied into place.
The front of the action area was epoxied closed with the epoxy and wood flour mixiture. This left a hollow forend. Holes were drilled in the barrel channel to spray in expanding insulation foam, then sealed with epoxy resin. A piece of walnut wood was cut to fit into the butt area and epoxied in to provide a flat surface for the butt pad. I just epoxied on a piece 1/4" rubber mat, sanded to the shape of the stock. A center hole was drilled into the wood and expanding foam sprayed in the butt area. And a stock is made!