hammer drag on sideplate side m36

M

mlh1974

New member
hello.
have some hammer drag marks on my cheifs special and kuhnhausen says to get the stainless steel bearing washers... see em for k,l,n but not j.
midway dosent list em in the catalog and they said they dont have these. also do you just eyeball to see if the hammer stud is straight?
any help/comments/thoughts ? thanks.
 
mlh: I don't know of any company that makes shims for the J-frames. If you have a machine shop near by you might be able to get them to make what you need. A shim kit can be bought at MSC, or most any machine shop supply company, that will have the punch block and shim stock.
It would be hard to tell if the stud was bent just by looking. If it was bent bad enough to be that obvious then you would have more problems than drag marks.
 
thanks sad,
appreciate the reply... so i just want the shims the same size around as the frame boss? also is there a specail tool that will show if the studs are off?
mike
 
Another option, and what I use. You've seen the jeweling on bolts? Take tha happer (and trigger) out of the pistol, From Brownells you can get little wire burshes and a jig to jewel the bolts using valve grinding compound. Jewel the hammer, trigger, and the inside of the side plate. It looks nice, it holds light oil, and smoothes up the action with out screwing with the springs and hammer fall.
 
Mlh: About the same size as the boss, a little more or less won't hurt. Shim it just enough clear and not bind the hammer.
No special tools are needed, just what any good shop should have. I don't really think you have a problem with yours being bent. Drag marks on the hammers are more common than you would think.
 
thanks :
craig, bill, and sad... appreicate the comments and help... i will let you all know when i figure it all out.
 
just checking out the files and stones at midway and brownwells, got any idea which stone or file to get to relieve the sideplate? if i can just get one file or stone instead of a whole set... oil or just dry rubbing, no experience$
thanks
 
relieved the sideplate i think

well, did the deed and cleaned it up in there and relubed... am curious though- if you apply slight pressure to the cylinder while dry firing should it ever fail to rotate? if i am applying pressure in the very beginning of the trigger pull it (on some charge holes) will stop it from turning. if i try to stop the cylinder from turning after pulling the trigger slightly i cant stop the cylinder....
just curious- on my 28-2 i cant stop the cylinder in the same manner and the hand that rotates the cylinder comes out of the window. on my 36 it never leaves flush from the window... should the hand come out further than the window on the 36??
well, i think i am going to try john g lawson from the sight shop Tacoma WA if i cannot be sure if it is safe to shoot.... anyone have experience with this smith?
any comments suggestions or help, thanks alot.
mike
 
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