H&R 999 Sportsman

Rmasters3

New member
I recently picked up a 999 Sportsman in excellent condition--but with the typical broken plastic yoke on the mainspring. Square butt, solid/one-piece firing pin.

I ordered a replacement all-steel mainspring rod and am still getting light strikes and failure to fire.

I ordered the complete all steel rod, retainer, and guide from Numrich and am waiting for that.

I also question the firing pin protrusion, can someone measure the firing pin striker from base to end. It doesn't look broken, nice smooth squared end.

Thanks
 
I was getting a lot of failure to fires with my H&R 922. I was using Winchester white box
ammo and it was very tight in the cylinder, so much that I had to mash the cylinder on a hard flat surface to get the cartridges to clear the frame.


I made a burnisher to use by hand in the chambers and was able to make enough of a change that the shells will now almost plunk in. No more misfires. It seems that sometimes a rim was not quite bottoming on the cylinder and absorbed some of the hammer's energy be moving to close the small gap. Maybe?

Before that, I had straightened the mainspring guide, which had been slightly binding the spring. That helped but I still had misfires fairly often, until I burnished the chambers.

On the other hand, there had not been any misfires with Remington or Federal ammo.
 
Last edited:
999

Thanks, I'll give that a look.

When you pull the trigger with the gun broken open, how far does your firing pin protrude to strike? I pull the trigger and can barely feel the strike with my finger.
 
My 922 is a solid frame and the hammer nose does the work--not a separate firing pin. I haven't measure the protrusion, but it is enough to make dry-firing with an empty cylinder out of the question.
 
we-e-e-e-e-ll, As it turned out, I found that the hex shank of a spade bit measured about .0005" larger than the cartridges I was using. (Diameter across the corners of the hex.)

I cut the shank of the spade bit and chucked it in an electric drill. I oiled the cylinders and rotated the drill shank slowly while moving the hex section in and out of each chamber a couple of times. Pretty crude tooling, but by the providence of God, the dimensions were right.

I don't expect everybody's shops would have the right size bits lying around.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top