Gunsmith turns down revolver!

M

Mastrogiacomo

New member
I've been asking around for a gunsmith in my area (Peabody, MA) to do work on my model 442 trigger. I've decided to try and see if I can hold onto this gun since it's still new and try to get used to it. Trigger work and a Wolf spring. I just got an e-mail tonight from Gun and Sport North in Lawrence after two requests for a reply that read: "I am sorry, but at this time we are not doing any work on this S&W model." What the Hell? Has anyone been turned down by a gunsmith? Know of whom else I could ask in Boston maybe?:(
 
Easy to say but I'm not a gunsmith, nor would I know what the heck I'd be doing. I don't know very much about the workings of the revolver -- which is why I'm looking for the gunsmith to do it. It's probably easy for you to do this but the spring aside, I haven't a clue how to do a trigger job, or I'd have done that for my Berettas...:rolleyes:
 
Maybe they've found most people are looking for "light" instead of "smooth" with a trigger job and you really can't lighten a J frames pull that much and still have reliable ignition. Basically you end up making a lot of unhappy cutomers-Gotta respect their decision if thats the case.

As for being turned down, yep on several jobs by a great local gunsmith who sadly moved on:( One of those turn downs was in fact a J-frame S/W 640. He pulled the trigger a couple of times and said "I'll take your $60 if you want, but honestly it's a good trigger. Doubt you would notice much difference other than being shy 3 sawbucks." You can bet that man got all my work after that.
 
With the short hammers on the S&W J-frames I don't doubt it would be difficult to improve the pull. I have an M60, and it's DA pull is about as good as any I've ever felt out of the box.

As a rule, S&W revolvers have excellent triggers (which is part the reason I'm leaning away from Ruger and toward S&W for my .357 needs).
 
The newer J Frames with the MIM parts have a different geometry than the older ones and it is very difficult (impossible?) to get more than a smooth "cap gun" 12# trigger pull. Personally I have had bad luck with spring kits in these guns. They worked on the range but not at 0 degree outside temps even using the right lubs... You might try Mike LaRocca in Worcester, MA. If he will do the work, he is as good as they come.
 
Send your gun to Teddy Jacobsen "Actions by T." Very few people these days have his knowledge, experience or INTEGRITY. All he does is action work. He will give you a dramatically better trigger that is 100% reliable without cutting springs.

www.actionsbyt.com

I don't mean to flame anyone by saying this but, in fairness, if a gunsmith tells you nothing can be done to improve a J Frame trigger past a smooth 12# pull they are probably telling you they cannot do it. I know it can be done because I have one so customized.

IMHO, a gun is something that I might have to bet my life on. I want the best working on it. IMHO and many others, Teddy is the best in the business, and he has the track record to prove it.

Look into it for yourself...

- Paladin7
 
M, don't be discouraged. I replaced my hammer "mainspring" myself and I am to technowiz. Search around on the net for "j frame trigger job/action job" etc. and you'll find lots. Basically, to get at the mainspring all you have to do is remove the grips and observe the function of the spring the rest is intuitive. I put a Wolff on my old 342 and it made a big difference, and did not effect reliability. Call Wolff, they are very helpful and sound in their recommendations. Try that first.
 
As was mentioned previously, I would send the gun to the S&W Performance Center. I have sent a number of guns there and was well satisfied. One of the best things about it is the very reasonable turn around time.
 
If you send the gun to S&W for the trigger job, you don't void your warrantee. Send it to anyone else and you do.
 
If you've got a lifetime warranty you don't want voided, that is something to consider. If you got your gun secondhand (like I get most mine), then consider doing it yourself. I thought we had instructions on tuning up a S&W here.
 
Y'know, when I first read the title to this thread, I got a mental picture of a sixgun on a lathe... ;)
 
There are gunsmiths who do not work on the Centennial series because the customers are not happy with the results and they end up redoing most of them. Something to do with the internal geometry being more difficult. I am fortunate to have a gunsmith in Oklahoma City who has done three of mine and some for other friends in Texas. His Centennial jobs are better than any I have felt from anyone else. I once had another gunsmith tell me 'So what, anybody can polish the parts to a mirror finish to get it smooth.' My response was, 'and your point is?' My smith works on a 'walk in' basis only so if you are going to be around Oklahoma anytime soon bring it with you.
 
Every gunsmith certainly has the right to refuse to work on guns, and in this case, on a specific model. Would you really want a gunsmith to work on that model if he wasn't completely alright with working on it?

I have known of gunsmiths who have refused to work on guns. As noted previously, maybe he doesn't feel he can do much for your particular gun. There is a gunsmith in San Antonio that refused to do a trigger job on my Colt Pony. He did provide a specific reason, however. It was that the trigger job would require lightening the trigger pull and that would then result in the hammer not striking the firing pin hard enough and hence would make the gun unreliable.
 
The J frame hammers are small and light, and even with fairly heavy springs have just about enough mass to reliably fire the primer. Note the point by DBR about functioning in cold weather or under adverse conditions. All makers build in that extra margin to make sure the guns will function reliably if wet, dirty, etc.

(Yes, I know YOU would never drop YOUR gun in wet sand or a filthy puddle; even if you took a hit in the arm you would make sure your gun remained perfect and clean. Yep!)

Trigger jobs, other than just smoothing things up, involve some reduction of that extra margin of reliability. For the reasons above, the J frames are notorious for having reliability problems after trigger work. That does not mean that some work cannot be done and reasonable reliability retained. But the customer needs to understand the ramifications of the work.

Jim
 
I think it is just good business ethics to not screw with something you can't guarantee. As Mr. Keenan says, a J-frame has too little margin for error for an ethical professional to screw with. Not flaming anybody, just mho. :)
 
One further point. Before the MIM parts the hammer was heavier. I guess in a effort to reduce weight or as a consequence of the MIM process, the hammer is relieved on both sides making it lighter. This makes it more sensitive to main spring weight. As far a "pinching" goes, you can have the top of the trigger rounded and the trigger contoured and polished. I have done this to some of my J frames. It makes the trigger feel "bigger". The J frame is a small gun and the trigger is proportionally "small". Maybe your fingers are to big for the trigger? These guns require a very high grip both for control and to get the right angle of pull on the trigger.
 
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