Gun Writers ARRRGGGHHH!!!

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Brutus

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Just finished reading the latest copy of Gun World, this installment had an article written by a Dr. Topper on the new Ruger LCR revolver. My questions:
1. since when did a .009 barrel cylinder gap become a desirable attribute
in any revolver?
2. Does anyone else think a 10lb. trigger pull is acceptable?
3. Has anyone ever experienced a variation in trigger pull from chamber to
chamber?
4. Do 3.71 to 6.64in. groups @ 15 yards do anything to make you want to
run right out and by one of these things?

Is it just me, or does this guy think we're all idiots?:mad:
 
If he reported all of the above, what is your gripe?

If he didn't, where did you get the above comments?

Soon we will understand what you are trying to say.

Bart Noir
Who wonders if Mr. Topper reported it as a "great gun" or not.
 
Gun Writers

First, remember that these people get paid to write these articles. They don't make a living by trashing gun manufacturers. Second, I have handled a few of these Rugers and I've noticed some variations in trigger pull. The last one I handled at a recent gun show, was neither as light nor as smooth as my J frame with an action job. I'm just sayin'.
 
1. since when did a .009 barrel cylinder gap become a desirable attribute
in any revolver?

That is a little on the large side, .007 is usually considered maximum spec

2. Does anyone else think a 10lb. trigger pull is acceptable?

On a DAO snubby, I actually consider 10lb to be pretty good. The single action trigger on a GI Spec 1911 is roughly 5lb so a DA pull twice that on a gun intended for SD is perfectly acceptable to me.

3. Has anyone ever experienced a variation in trigger pull from chamber to
chamber?

Yes, as a matter of fact I have with an extremely dirty revolver. Also, out-of-spec ammo can cause this as well.

4. Do 3.71 to 6.64in. groups @ 15 yards do anything to make you want to
run right out and by one of these things?

That's acceptable combat accuracy. Remeber too, snub revolvers aren't exactly the easiest guns to shoot accurately (especially a DAO revolver), a good deal of the less-than-impressive-to-you accuracy could be Dr. Topper's shooting rather than the revolver.
 
I looked at one last weekend for the first time. I was supprised at how the size was like any other compact revolver, SP101 etc. I thought it was a little smaller oh well. What I didnt like was how I pulled the trigger back and as the cylinder rotated and staged (heard that term/concept the other day, which explained what I felt in the trigger pull), it got harder to finish the trigger pull. If I pulled the first time, it was ok. But then as I progressed to the second, third, fourth it got worse?? Does that make any sense? I just really didnt seem right/normal. Now I know you wouldnt pull the trigger like that in a SD shooting. But it just didnt feel good. Does this make any sense? Or did I just fondle a lemon?


added info: this was at the gun store with an empty cylinder...
 
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Pardon the ignorance, but how exactly does ammo relate to trigger pull?

In a revolver, if a cartridge doesn't chamber fully it can drag on the recoil shield. You'll feel this drag in the trigger pull.

Since the cartridge will drag different amounts across different parts of the recoil shield, the drag, and hence, the pull, can vary.

Larry
 
A fired cartridge can also cause variations in trigger pull if the primer backs out of the primer pocket and isn't reseated by the case moving back against the recoil shield.
 
We need a someone like "Yahtzee" to review guns instead of video games. He is quite popular with what he does.

Even if you don't play video games, the videos are funny to watch. [Removed OT link]
 
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An out of the box 10lb DA trigger on a snubby is better than average, in my limited experience.

Last time I called S&W service, they stated that a 0.010" cylinder gap was acceptable, I would think that 0.009" is on the high side for a new revolver--not particularly desirable but not reason for complaint either.
 
Since the manufacturers make the guns, I suppose if they say .009 is "in spec", then it must be. That said, velocity in a snub is generally limited by the short barrel. A wide cylinder gap would not help matters at all.

So on that subject, I'll pass on spending my hard earned cash on such a thing.

A 10 lb DA trigger isn't all that bad for a SD handgun. Personally, I like them a bit lighter, but not so light that they won't fire with the light hammers commonly installed on lightweight snubs. I haven't shot a "DA only" revolver, but I'm assuming that the concept is the same since pulling the trigger is what "cocks" the hammer?

I'll refrain from judgement on this one, since I haven't had the opportunity to try one for myself yet. 10 lbs seems a little on the heavy side (heavier than my snub), but I'd have to try it to decide for sure.

Group size doesn't sound all that bad for a SD snub, but mine shoots better than that. Perhaps that one would too with different ammo? Time may tell.

It's apparent to me that one would have to overlook a few "within spec" traits in order to attempt to "praise" such a firearm. It doesn't sound like anything special to me.

Overall, I'd say it's another snub. Nothing spectacular to write home about on it, so I'll keep my well-broke-in Smith & Wesson.

Daryl
 
You need to compare apples to apples

Some of the points brought up sound like they are comparing the LCR to a target revolver which it is definately not. When I bought mine I compared it to a Smith 642 side by side which is the LCR's most direct competition. The trigger action was definitely better out of the two NIB revolvers so I bought the LCR. It also sounds like the writer needs a little more practice with a snub revolver. Mine groups a lot tighter than that.;)
 
4. Do 3.71 to 6.64in. groups @ 15 yards do anything to make you want to run right out and by one of these things?

Well Brutus, would you rather that the author posted the actual results so that you could make an informed decision before purchasing or would you rather the author fudged the numbers to make you think the gun performed better than it actually did so that you would want to buy one?

Why are you upset with the author when it is the specs you don't like?
 
I think the thing that set me off was the author trying to justify the .009 barrel/cylinder gap as being a good thing. Checked all my revolvers and .005 is the biggest (Ruger blackhawk). Maybe it was just this fellows style of writing but he really seemed to patronize Ruger.
 
I'd prefer they just report their findings, good or bad, and let me use my own brilliant powers of deduction to render my decision. ;)
 
but he really seemed to patronize Ruger.

Have you ever read a BAD review in a major gun mag that depends on those folks for ad revenue?....nope, and you never will - they might hint at something lightly and quickly, but that's about it......called "not biting the hand that feeds you"
 
2. Does anyone else think a 10lb. trigger pull is acceptable?

I would guess it to be better than average for a DA.

Without digging out the issues, I believe Gun Tests was showing S&W's DA at around a 12# average across several models. Gemini Custom catalogs SP101 work at 9, 10 and 11.

If it's smooth and actually ignites the round every time you can color me provisionally impressed.
 
How to read a review

I write reviews for products unrelated to firearms, but the idea is the same. Magazines are funded by advertizers and product reviews are for advertizers products. We all know this. No secret there.

The trick to reading a review is in two things. First, if a reviewer has even the slightest negative thing to say, it means one of two things. A) The negative was so appalling that inspite of the risk to POing the advertizer, the writer could not in good conscience ignore it. Now he may sugar coat it, but he'll at least put it out there for his readership or B) the negative is really so insignificant that it almost doesn't merit mention. This device is used to give credibility to the article/author through the appearance of balance. It's not a scam, it just keeps a positive article from sounding like an informercial.

The second thing is to read what the author doesn't say. If he goes on and on about insignificant virtues, then chances are that the real substantive attributes of the product were not very praiseworthy. Product reviews can be very helpful, you just need to know how to read them and what to look for.

Finally (and I guess this would technically be a third thing), stats are a reviewer's best friend. They are facts that cannot be argued. The manufacturer can still get PO'd if the stats don't make their product look very good, but they will have a harder time arguing it. So the author can state "The trigger was a might stiff at 25lbs according to my scales, but was very smooth..." This puts the reader on notice through a simple statement of fact. I didn't read the OP's reference article, but it sounds like he put all of the information out there for the knowledgable reader to make an informed purchasing decision and still be able to write articles next month.
 
first, it seems to me that you fellas are making excuses for Rugers LCR. My wife, me, and 1 daughter have S&W M36s. We can all get a 4 inch or less groups (single action) at 25 yards. The trigger pulls on all of them runs about 7lbs, there abouts. The triggers are not staged and extremely smooth. If Smith makes present guns like this, why buy a Ruger that is not really handling right? My other daughter has an older daughter who has a Rossi .32 M99 and her revolver, although roughter than the Smiths is also fairly accurate. I see no reason to pay that much money for a gun that is not up to par.
 
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