Gun Wax

S

Sisco

New member
Looking at the Flitz Polish web site I saw a gun wax listed for use on wood and metal.
Is there any advantage to doing this? Would any quality Carnuba car wax work the same?
Howcome I ask so may questions? :rolleyes:
 
Waxing your guns

I've heard a lot of people say they prefer the wax approach to exterior care. Flitz Wax and Renaissance Wax are two of those preferred, both are available from Brownells and other sources.

Car wax can be problematic, as most of it contains abrasives designed to "restore" a car's finish. I used one once on a blued gun. Thank goodness I was using a white handkerchief, cause I noticed it turning blue and that's the last time I used car wax on a gun except for the wood.

Good luck and regards.
 
I've used Birchwood Casey's gun stock wax with very good results. You can get a mirror finish on a stock that is very easy to touch up if you get a slight scratch, and it doesn't yellow with age.
However it takes many coats to do it. I have one beautiful smoke pole that took about 100 coats, but it was worth it.:)
 
I just got done with the stock, ten coats of Tung oil and it's pretty shiny now. Just wondering how much more the wax would help.
 
There are car waxes and floor waxes that contain NO abrasive. Just carnuba and a thinner. You have to look for em.

If mostly carnuba and little thinner, will be a bear to buff out by hand.

Sam
 
I tried some Meguiar's "Gold Class" car wax on it this evening. Applied it in a couple of 'hidden' areas first and it didn't seem to do any harm so I went ahead and did the whole gun. Looks good.
 
Check out

the Brownells catalog. They carry at least one good wax purposely made for stocks. I forget the name, but it comes in a shoe-polish tin and works great.
 
Mike

Do you use the Johnson's paste wax on both the steel and the stock?

What is the reason for waxing the steel any way?

Thanks..
 
SFS,

On my handguns I wax any exposed steel I can get to, for the same reason that I wax my car, it protects the finish. The grips on most of my handguns are rubber of one sort or another, so no waxing there.

I'll wax the stocks on my rifles about once a year if I remember.
 
Use either furniture paste wax, good for tools, anything metal. Or for a less durable finish use beeswax diluted into mineral spirits. It works for anything from wooden coutertops to the slide of a 1911. Beeswax is better for kitchen wood, everything else gets regular furniture paste wax.
 
The best I have ever found for wood is Minwax Finishing Wax.
I used to use Johnsons, but this stuff blows that away. I get mine at the local ACE Hardware. About 7 bucks for a lifetime supply.
 
Is it safe to use the Johnson's paste or Minwax on Blued steel and also Laminated wood stocks?

What is actually better Flitz or the furniture paste wax for both looks and protection?
 
I sometimes use Klasse car wax on the metal surfaces of my guns - haven't tried it on wood. It works great as a rust preventative and once applied you can't see it at all. The wax works better than most liquid protectants because it doesn't evaporate and doesn't get on your clothes.
 
SFS,

Sorry, I didn't see your question about Johnson's.

YES, it is perfectly safe to use on blued steel.

That's what I'm talking about. I've been using JPW on my blued steel firearms for years with no adverse affects at all.

I wouldn't see why it couldn't be used on laminated stocks, but I'm not sure it would be necessary. Most of the laminated stocks I've seen have been HEAVILY sealed with poly or epoxy.
 
Mike,
Thanks for getting back to me.
Do you usually apply it with a damp or dry rag, I believe it says to use either?
Then do you let it dry to a haze before wiping it off?

Scott
 
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