Gun Safe Installation?

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LoneStranger

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I am in the position that I will need to bolt my present gunsafe to the floor in my condo. I am looking for information on proper procedures and things to look out for.

The safe is a Sentry mid-level that is not fire resistant. I am installing in a closet that has wall to wall carpet in it and the floor underneath is slab on grade concrete.

I am looking at removing the carpet and pad directly under the safe and setting the safe directly down on the concrete. I am considering putting some kind of moisture barrier under the safe to retard moisture getting to the bottom of the safe.

While I have the anchors and bolts that came with the safe is there a better option?

Any info will be considered as helpful.
 
I would bolt it down on some sort of stand off to allow air circulation around the bottom and prevent mositure. A few pieces of scrap steel plate would work, don't need much a 1/2 inch will do. Don't know what kit comes with it but I would hammer drill into the slab and sink ancors in with concreate epoxy, or epoxy in studs and bolt the safe down to them. If you use grade 8 hardware even with the spacer there it would be hard / time consuming to saw the bolts and remove the safe. Such an assemblage would likely be stronger than the safe.
 
Do you own, or rent the condo

If you rent, the owner may not take kindly to your handi-work.

And so may potential buyers down the road, unless you leave the safe behind, then it may be a selling point.
 
i have installed a few midrange gunsafes in houses i have lived in .i discovered trying to line up the holes in the back of the safe to wall studs is impossible so take a sheet of 3\4 in plywood cut it to the size of the back of the safe.then use long sheetrock screws and attach the plywood to the wall then use the safe lag bolts and attach safe to wood.when you remove the safe if you move a little sandpaper and small dabs of sheetrock mud and its all fixed
 
I have two safes. Bolted together then bolted to the floor. Star drilled cement floor and set bolts. Was a chore getting everything aligned and set. Did leave airspace bottom and back. Then built a cabinet around it all. Would take a wrecker to jerk things out. Trouble is I can never move as I do not want that much work again:p . Not a condo, though.
 
When we install gun safes on concrete, we use 3/4" plywood cut 1/2" larger than the width and depth. This gives us 1/4" on each side. We drill from inside the safe, and use 3/8" or 1/2" sleeve anchors that are at least 3" long. These are available from most hardware stores.

The problem with having an air space beneath the safe is that it also creates a prying point. I would leave the carpet as it is, and install the bolts through it. You can use a exacto knife or gasket punch to accomplish this.
 
Thanks for info.

1) I, and mortgage co., own condo. So resale point is limited.

2) Like info on mounting to wall with 3/4 in. plywood.

3) Must think about carpet removal/leaving and vapor barrier. If I leave carpet then when safe is removed I only have to worry about hiding small holes. If I remove carpet, just to size of safe, then I can trim out to make neat installation. Minimum for vapor barrier is some hard plastic sheeting to just size of base of safe and less than 1/4in. thick.
 
For a vapor barrier I used 1/4 thick plastic(nylon) 4" wide and 3 feet long. Three of these , one at each side and one down the middle. Lets air ciculate but keeps the safe off the concrete. The strips are lined up under the lower drill points for floor mounting.
 
I had a locksmith bolt mine to my cement slab. Only cost me $82.00 and was worth every penny. He came with all the tools, equipment and hardware. He was done and cleaned up in 30 minutes, including moving the safe to an ideal position.
 
You could leave the carpet. Mark your holes, cut small X in carpet where hole goes, and drill hole in concrete using hammer drill. Use appropriate sized plastic sleeve to prevent carpet from twisting around dill bit.

Use drop-in type anchors, 1/4" or 3/8" would be sufficient. They allow you to use whatever length bolt you need, and when you are done you are left with anchor flush or below surface of concrete.

When you remove the safe all that is left are small X's cut in the carpet, since it is a closet this doesn't seem like a big deal.

Using plywood below and on the wall are good suggestions.
 
First, figure out exactly where the safe is going. Use a long nail or center-punch to mark your holes through the carpet and pad. Now move the safe out of the way and pull the carpet and pad back. It's only held down with tack-strip unless it's commercial grade. Get a good masonry bit, and use these for your anchors. It's called a "Strike Anchor."
strike-anchor.gif


Make a small x-cut in the carpet and pad where they go over the anchor bolts, and put a dab of rubber cement or construction adhiesive on the back of the carpt to keep it from fraying--but let it dry before stretching it back in place. Put it back over the bolts, drop the safe in place, tighten it down, and you're done.

For a vapor barrier, just put a neoprene washer under the steel washer.
 
Old thread revival here. I just installed a Browning safe like this one on my carpet over a concrete slab floor. It is bolted down by hurricane bolts in the two pre drilled mounting holes. I tightened em down as tight as I could but being as how it's mounted on carpet I can still kind of rock the safe back and fourth ever so slightly and am afraid the weight of the safe could break the two bolts if I (or a criminal) really tried. I guess I'm asking if this is a secure install on the carpet?
 
With a non fire resistant unit I wouldn't bother anchoring into concrete. I have an old StackOn safe that I use to store my ammunition and went the route suggested in that I rested it on a platform which acts as a barrier between the concrete(and possibly water in the basement). It is secured to wall studs by several bolts. When this was my gun safe it was installed in the same manner within my closet at a position which made leverage with a pry bar attempt on the door near impossible. So remember positioning is just as important as how it is fastened to the structure of your home. Also since tipping is an issue with the heavier safes, an additional structure may be built around the safe to hold it in position such as the shelves I built atop mine. I had the same concern with the bolts eventually working loose due to the weight of the door. That and I needed the storage space above the safe.
 
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I guess I'm asking if this is a secure install on the carpet?
Click to expand...

About as good as you're going to get. Gun safes are very light (as far as safes go), and the floor is going to be thin sheet (that flexes). Add the fact that the safe itself will act like a 5' prybar when you push on it.

The safe is going to move, but don't confuse that movement with a bad bolt job. The bolts will keep it from tipping, and will prevent somebody from just knocking it over and/or running off with it.
 
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