Gun Safe Help

F

FJ4ZROX

New member
I have a "Remington" labeled Liberty safe with an S&G electronic lock (the old 2 9V battery style). Over the years, I have had intermittent problems gaining access to the safe. I input the combo, but get nothing...after 4 attempts of the CORRECT combo (no memory issues here), the lock goes to "lock out" mode???

Any suggestions? I'm ready to replace the lock with a new unit (dial type), and relegate the safe to ammo storage only...getting a newer/stronger/bigger safe for my valuables. The improved security available and ability to easily/quickly gain access to the interior will make the purchase worthwhile alone.

So - any ideas or suggestions on how to get the damn thing open? I know to rotate the handle all the way to the left (unloading the bolts), and I know nothing is pressing on the door from the inside (the 2 top ideas from the local safe sales shop). Should there be any "slope/angle" to the safe (ie canted backward slightly or completely level)? Anything else? Safe company can't replace the lock without me opening the safe....

HELP!!
 
Have your locksmith contact Remington (or Liberty) and get the schematic for "drilling" the safe. The company should be able to send him a template with a "drill here" mark, once he drills the hole he should be able to unlatch the safe with a small pry bar. You then replace the lock. And your safe will now have a small "beauty mark" where the hole was drilled.
 
Thanks for the reply!!

Question: Won't the drilled hole render the safe useless, since anyone with a pry bar could gain access? Just curious - as stated, I'm ready to replace/upgrade due to added security/size.
 
How much is a new keypad? Or does a local safe company have a keypad they can use to try to unlock the safe for you? That's assuming, of course, that this is a viable option.

We have a couple of members who are in the safe business and perhaps they will notice this thread and step in with a solution.
 
The keypad/lock is about $200....no big deal, but they can't even do that without me being able to open it. Had it opened, and the guy at the safe store asked me to try changing the batteries and pushing everything back away from the door to avoid any binding of the bolts...that was 2 days ago, and I can't seem open it since (multiple failed attempts yesterday, and tried 5 times so far this morning). The troubling thing is the safe keeps going into "lock out" mode even the correct combination is being input.

Thanks guys....hoping to at least get in without too much damage so I can still use the safe for secure ammo storage.

Next thing is to research Browning Platinum vs Fort Knox Legend vs ??? for an upgrade/replacement.
 
After drilling the safe, a metal putty may be used to fill the hole. I'd leave a gap and mig weld the rest, file and repaint it.

If you open it, have a locksmith install a dial lock. Slower but less subject to mechanical failure.

Let's see if a1abdj chimes in. He's a professional locksmith and a safe dealer.
 
Mechanical lock - as in a dial? Seems like the best way to avoid the failure I am currently facing, but takes a LONG time in comparison to get in.

I guess I have my HD weapons more easily accessible, so I can take my time getting to the other guns and valuables....
 
I do not know what your unlock procedure is for that safe but my Fort Knox, which also uses the S&G combination in dual mode, requires the dial to be spun 5 times past the "control" number before the keypad will unlock the safe. Does your's have a similar procedure or perhaps a different procedure that you're failing to complete??
 
Mine is a 12 yr old, 2-battery keypad only, setup. I input the 6 digit number and press "#" to unlock....press "*" to reset the combination if I make a mistake :confused:
 
Sorry....misread that. Since it's electronic only that could be most anything electronic.....batteries to a bad sensor. Sounds like professional assistance is warranted.
 
Safe company can't replace the lock without me opening the safe....
Click to expand...

Why can't the safe company drill the safe open if that is the last resort? Has the safe company sent a tech out to trouble shoot the lock at all?


Have your locksmith contact Remington (or Liberty) and get the schematic for "drilling" the safe. The company should be able to send him a template with a "drill here" mark,
Click to expand...

Watch out for guys that need schematics for basic lock openings. It's a good sign that they don't (or never have) do them often. You'd be better off getting somebody who knows what they are doing.

Question: Won't the drilled hole render the safe useless
Click to expand...

No. Safes are drilled, opened, repaired, and put back into service all the time.


Or does a local safe company have a keypad they can use to try to unlock the safe for you? That's assuming, of course, that this is a viable option.
Click to expand...

They should, and that should be part of the basic trouble shooting. It could certainly be the problem. A bad keypad could be sending the wrong signal to the lock even though the correct button is being pushed. This could cause the lock to think that the incorrect combination is being entered.

If the OP has already purchased a new lock, and the keypads are compatible, he could use his new keypad to give it a try.

After drilling the safe, a metal putty may be used to fill the hole. I'd leave a gap and mig weld the rest, file and repaint it.
Click to expand...

This is pretty much what we do minus the welding. It's tough to weld a gun safe because of the thin steel. It gets too hot too quickly, and has a tendancy to fry the paint.

We do use a carbide imbedded putty that makes a pretty darn hard repair to drill through. A ball bearing or two added into the hole, and you'd be better off drilling elsewhere.
 
Ok...finally got the safe open...called the safe company and they came out to check the lock. Turned out the lock was bad....replaced the whole unit and now everything is working as it should. Good to have access to my valuables again!

However - after seeing the internals/cam locking system and the single bolt on the bottom, I am even more set on replacing the safe. Safe company says I'm on the right track...top of the line Browning or Ft. Knox.

Thanks for the suggestions and help.
 
This is why I avoid electronic locks like the plague. Mechanical dials don't fail.

For fast access, I use a 5 push button lock on a small pistol box, that's the only safe I need to open quickly. As for my big safe, it is nice and slow, which I greatly prefer...
 
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