Boomer8404
New member
What is K-Coat gun coating and whats the best way to remove it from a Glock slide that has had K-Coat sprayed over the black oxide finish. Thanks for any tips. Happy Shootin.
Gun Coating?
- Thread starter Boomer8404
- Start date
I have not heard of it before. I checked it out online and found this mention of it.
“The k-coat is an electroless Nickel plate with PTFE (Teflon) distributed throughout the Ni matrix. A solution with PTFE is added to the agitated Ni bath and as the base material is plated PTFE molecules are trapped in the coating with some of them being exposed to the surface. As the coating wears more Teflon is constantly being exposed. The resulting surface is Extremely corrosive resistant, Extremely abrasive resistant, has a very low coefficient of friction, and one of the lowest surface energies available ( ie stuff has a Very hard time sticking to it ).”
“The k-coat is an electroless Nickel plate with PTFE (Teflon) distributed throughout the Ni matrix. A solution with PTFE is added to the agitated Ni bath and as the base material is plated PTFE molecules are trapped in the coating with some of them being exposed to the surface. As the coating wears more Teflon is constantly being exposed. The resulting surface is Extremely corrosive resistant, Extremely abrasive resistant, has a very low coefficient of friction, and one of the lowest surface energies available ( ie stuff has a Very hard time sticking to it ).”
Bill DeShivs
New member
If it is nickel plating, www.caswllplating.com sells an inexpensive nickel stripping solution that works well.
Boomer8404
New member
OK, I found out its Duracoat. So, how do I remove it?
Last edited:
Boomer8404
New member
Gun-Kote
Who uses KG Gun-Kote? How is durability, prep & application? Do you have to use a separate oven or can you use the kitchen oven and give it a really good cleaning after. Could a small toaster oven be used? I am only coating a G22 slide.
Who uses KG Gun-Kote? How is durability, prep & application? Do you have to use a separate oven or can you use the kitchen oven and give it a really good cleaning after. Could a small toaster oven be used? I am only coating a G22 slide.
We've been using Gunkote for the past 30+ years as the top two coats in our Tuff-Gun finish. The big secret in any finish or refinish work is the prep work. Abrasive blast the metal, clean it, clean it again, Parkerize it, clean it several more times, Gunkote it, bake it, clean it and reassemble it.
Curing should be done in a dedicated oven...meaning an oven that you do NOT use for food preparation. Our shop oven is the size of a fridge, is computer controlled for time/temp and has a blower inside to keep the air moving around. The moving air keeps dust and curing vapors from sttling on the curing parts. I have a smaller bench top oven that I use for small jobs. You can get one of those used from a lab supply place. I use a toaster oven for tiny jobs. Don't just "flame on". Bring the temp up in stages to the curing temp. The smaller the oven, the more critical this is because the heating elements are closer to the parts tray.
Yes, you can use a kitchen oven if you clean it very well afterwards. Curing vapors will settle on the inside of the oven and transfer to anything inside like the pizza the next time the oven gets used. My shop oven gets absolutely filthy with black dust and has to be vac'ed out. Granted, there are a LOT of firearms that get cured in that oven but any curing residue at all on my Grand Daughters pizza is to much. That stuff contains nasty things..like lead.
Chemical durabilty on Gunkote is excellent. It's non or very slow reactive to most chemicals including blood, sweat, salt water, chlorine, battery acid, acetone, etc. Anything that will "eat" the finish will probably kill you first! Physical durabilty is pretty good too. I've found it (Properly applied) to be as good or better in the physical durabilty department as any other finish that is spray applied.
Aside from it's chemical durabilty, it has one property that's better than any other spray on finish. It will burnish to a perfect fit. That's critical on internal close tolerance parts. It means that after you apply it, the part may fit tight but once it's used in place, it burnishes to a perfect fit. Yes, Gunkote can be applied to all of the external and internal parts of a firearm. I even use it on the insides of my RC boat engines. http://www.shootiniron.com/P9130008.jpg On the piston in the ring lands, etc.
Compared to a few other finishes, Gunkote is not user freindly. It has to be force cured, the finish has to sprayed on hot metal, the fumes will eat your lungs, etc. On the plus side, it's not a two part mix, so you just have to clean the sprayer if you leave it set overnite. No, I don't own stock in KG!. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
Curing should be done in a dedicated oven...meaning an oven that you do NOT use for food preparation. Our shop oven is the size of a fridge, is computer controlled for time/temp and has a blower inside to keep the air moving around. The moving air keeps dust and curing vapors from sttling on the curing parts. I have a smaller bench top oven that I use for small jobs. You can get one of those used from a lab supply place. I use a toaster oven for tiny jobs. Don't just "flame on". Bring the temp up in stages to the curing temp. The smaller the oven, the more critical this is because the heating elements are closer to the parts tray.
Yes, you can use a kitchen oven if you clean it very well afterwards. Curing vapors will settle on the inside of the oven and transfer to anything inside like the pizza the next time the oven gets used. My shop oven gets absolutely filthy with black dust and has to be vac'ed out. Granted, there are a LOT of firearms that get cured in that oven but any curing residue at all on my Grand Daughters pizza is to much. That stuff contains nasty things..like lead.
Chemical durabilty on Gunkote is excellent. It's non or very slow reactive to most chemicals including blood, sweat, salt water, chlorine, battery acid, acetone, etc. Anything that will "eat" the finish will probably kill you first! Physical durabilty is pretty good too. I've found it (Properly applied) to be as good or better in the physical durabilty department as any other finish that is spray applied.
Aside from it's chemical durabilty, it has one property that's better than any other spray on finish. It will burnish to a perfect fit. That's critical on internal close tolerance parts. It means that after you apply it, the part may fit tight but once it's used in place, it burnishes to a perfect fit. Yes, Gunkote can be applied to all of the external and internal parts of a firearm. I even use it on the insides of my RC boat engines. http://www.shootiniron.com/P9130008.jpg On the piston in the ring lands, etc.
Compared to a few other finishes, Gunkote is not user freindly. It has to be force cured, the finish has to sprayed on hot metal, the fumes will eat your lungs, etc. On the plus side, it's not a two part mix, so you just have to clean the sprayer if you leave it set overnite. No, I don't own stock in KG!. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com