Gun cleaning solvents and lubes what do i need?

Just grab a Hoppes gun cleaning kit from Wally world. Or you could get a bore snake and a can of break free CLP. Either way is GTG
 
I agree that a Hoppe's cleaning kit is probably a good place to start. You don't mention whether it's for rifle, handgun or shotgun but either way there is a large number of cleaning solvents and even larger number of gun oils available - and all of them will likely be more than adequate for most conditions. Feel free to experiment once you have a baseline... a caliber-specific Hoppe's kit will include their #9 cleaning solvent, patches, rod, jags and their gun oil. For years I have used Hoppes #9 solvent for most of my routine gun cleaning and buy it by the quart bottle.
 
I resisted the temptation, but...

There are many products available to use for different tasks. Your cleaning regimen can be as complicated or as simple as you like it to be.

Myself I have many different solvents and lubricants, most of the bottles nearly full. I guess I am a sucker for the "newest and best" product. If I am shooting jacketed bullets, I will use T.M. solvent, as it doesn't smell too awful bad, and does a good job removing both carbon/powder residue and jacket fouling from the barrel. That or the foaming Wipe Out stuff.

If I am shooting cast bullets I'll use either Ballistol or Breakfree or sometimes Hoppes #9.

Sometimes I'll use a loop to hold the patch, other times a jag, yet others the Parker Hale style jag. For my 6.5x47Lapua I use one of those felt plug deals instead of patches.

On badly copper fouled barrels, the little felt plugs and JB Bore Paste can be helpful.

I have an old automotive chamois I have cut 5" pieces of over the years which is nearly saturated with Break Free. I use it to wipe down the outsides of firearms before storage to prevent rusting.

I can see that I have spent far too much time and money in attempting to tackle what could be a quick and easy task. Since I find cleanup after cast bullets to be a whole lot simpler, I find myself shooting firearms that are either optimized for cast bullets, or which tend to shoot them well. Jacket fouling is some stubborn stuff, and either requires mechanical (read elbow grease) means or stronger chemical means to remove. That and bores shot with cast bullets seem to last longer.
 
I like the break free clp cause it does clean and lube so you can use the same can got both, a tooth brush will work or if you want to go to HD and get a plastic bristle brush just for gun cleaning then you can do that and get yourself a bore snake and then your good to start cleaning.....

If you want do a search here for gun lubes, Im sure youll find plenty of threads on different studies. I know I did. A good one and a big one was on frog lube that I saw.
 
Any cleaning kit will do. So will any solvent. Has to be made to remove carbon, copper and lead though. Lubing can depend on the firearm, but it's grease on moving parts and oil on the rest. And it's lightly grease/oil.
Anything else that has the word 'gun' or 'gunsmith' in its title just costs more. Buying "gun cleaning" patches costs more. So does anything with a firearms industry manufacturer's name on it.
Patches can be made on the cheap by buying a yard or two of cotton flannelette(think winter PJ's) remnant in a discount fabric shop. Two yards, 60" wide will give you hundreds of 4" x 2" patches(.30 calibre).
 
The short version is you need three things.

Powder solvent.
Copper solvent.
Lubricant.

The question of which product is best for each of those applications, will get you a hundred different opinions. May as well be asking for opinions on football teams or NASCAR drivers.

My personal preferences are Hoppes No9 for the powder solvent, Sweets 7.62 for copper solvent, and BreakFree CLP for lubricant.

The only thing you need to be aware of is that if you use Sweets (or equivalent, like Barnes CR-10) is that you should use synthetic/nylon brushes. If you use brass brushes, the solvent will eat them.

On edit: To clarify, some solvents are advertised as for use on both Copper and powder fouling, my personal preference is to only use the stronger(stinkier) solvents when needed. If I don't have bad copper fouling, I don't use the stronger solvent.
 
Hoppe's No.9 and WalMart generic Synthetic 5w20 motor oil. The quart of oil is less than $6 and will last somewhere around that many years. :D
 
Dreadful!

1) solvent

2) grease

3) oil

Hoppe's makes fine products in all.

You'll also need a cleaning rod, patches, and a barrel brush.
 
There are a list of things, Hoppe's # 9, KG 1 & 12, Ballistal, kroil oil, grease, Wipe out- Patch out, one piece cleaning rod,good jag, proper size patches. Lighter fluid to clean trigger, blue lock tight. That's about it for now.
 
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