I'm a small guy, 5"6", with fairly small hands. I've been looking into some 8 shot revolvers but have heard that since they're built on larger frames I may have some trouble holding one and working the trigger in a comfortable manner. I've also heard that if necessary a new set of grips might alleviate that problem, if it turns out to be one. Has anyone here had a similar problem and are there any brands you would recommend. The pistol I'm looking into is the Performance Center S&W Model 627.
Grips for the little guys
- Thread starter Ale GOlem
- Start date
I have the 627PC and I have fairly small hands as well. The N frame is a bit bigger, but not terribly bigger. What I've found that works the best is rubber Hogue grips with finger grooves. I think they look terrible, but they are easy to shoot with. Especially with full house .357 loads!
An N-frame is an N-frame is an N-frame. Doesn't matter if it's a 627, 629, 27, 28, 24, 625, etc. It's an N-frame.A G,
Find an N-frame to try in your hand first to decide. Even if it's a .44 Magnum or a .45 ACP, the trigger reach will be the same as the 627. I wear a medium glove for the most part and find I can manage a large frame S&W OK, though shooting it Double Action is a reach.
A K or L frame is much easier for me to get a good grasp on and manage in fast DA shooting. This puts you in the 6 and 7 shots .357 class (Model 19, 686, 66 ). A K/L frame with stocks like a set of Ahrends smooth tacticals or a Hogue monogrip feels almost perfect to me. The key I find is not covering the backstrap (metal frame at the rear of the grips); anything that covers that gets too bulky for my hands on the medium frame, I couldn't even dream of adding them to the large frame.
Oh, and because I like this picture, even though it's posted in another thread on here as well:
Top to bottom: Model 18, K-frame .22LR, Ahrends smooth tacticals in cocobolo, Model 19, K-frame .357, checkered Hogue monogrip, Model 586, L-frame .357, standard S&W service stocks (actually originally on the M-18. I had to take the Pachmyer grips that came on the 586 off because they covered the backstrap and were too bulky for my grip).
A G,
Find an N-frame to try in your hand first to decide. Even if it's a .44 Magnum or a .45 ACP, the trigger reach will be the same as the 627. I wear a medium glove for the most part and find I can manage a large frame S&W OK, though shooting it Double Action is a reach.
A K or L frame is much easier for me to get a good grasp on and manage in fast DA shooting. This puts you in the 6 and 7 shots .357 class (Model 19, 686, 66 ). A K/L frame with stocks like a set of Ahrends smooth tacticals or a Hogue monogrip feels almost perfect to me. The key I find is not covering the backstrap (metal frame at the rear of the grips); anything that covers that gets too bulky for my hands on the medium frame, I couldn't even dream of adding them to the large frame.
Oh, and because I like this picture, even though it's posted in another thread on here as well:
Top to bottom: Model 18, K-frame .22LR, Ahrends smooth tacticals in cocobolo, Model 19, K-frame .357, checkered Hogue monogrip, Model 586, L-frame .357, standard S&W service stocks (actually originally on the M-18. I had to take the Pachmyer grips that came on the 586 off because they covered the backstrap and were too bulky for my grip).
Sorry, that was a typo.
Scharfschuetzer
New member
Ale,
Back in my LE days, some of the guys on the department had their N frame pistols modified down to K frame round butt configuration and then used the popular Pachmyer grips on them. That might be a tad expensive for you, but it would be an option.
Another option perhaps would be to get an L frame S&W. The officers that had those used the K frame aftermarket grips on them.
For me and my size of hand, the K frame size is just about ideal. In the past, I've modified the S&W N frame factory wooden target grips by cutting off some depth from the bottom and then reducing the circumfrence at the base. This gives me a useable grip, somewhat between the magna grips and the target grips, for double action shooting.
Back in my LE days, some of the guys on the department had their N frame pistols modified down to K frame round butt configuration and then used the popular Pachmyer grips on them. That might be a tad expensive for you, but it would be an option.
Another option perhaps would be to get an L frame S&W. The officers that had those used the K frame aftermarket grips on them.
For me and my size of hand, the K frame size is just about ideal. In the past, I've modified the S&W N frame factory wooden target grips by cutting off some depth from the bottom and then reducing the circumfrence at the base. This gives me a useable grip, somewhat between the magna grips and the target grips, for double action shooting.
You need a grip with an exposed backstrap. Those Hogue rubber grips seem to work fine, though I cut the bottom finger groove off. Miculek grips also have an exposed backstrap, but being wood, don't absorb as much recoil.
Also, be sure your strong hand grip is as high as possible on the gun. When gripping the gun with your strong hand, you shouldn't see any backstrap visible in front of the web of your hand.
A few things beyond grip & grips can also make a big difference. The first is a radiused trigger (see pic). Rounding the corners can make your finger placement more manageable.
Secondly, consider having a gunsmith do an action job & lower the trigger pull weight. With a lower pull weight, you don't need quite as much finger on the trigger to stroke the trigger. The usual caveats apply, though - too light a pull can lead to reliability issues. How light is too light is largely a matter of how the gun is to be used (SD vs range only) and whether you reload your own ammo.
Smoothed & radiused trigger on my N-frame 625:
Also, be sure your strong hand grip is as high as possible on the gun. When gripping the gun with your strong hand, you shouldn't see any backstrap visible in front of the web of your hand.
A few things beyond grip & grips can also make a big difference. The first is a radiused trigger (see pic). Rounding the corners can make your finger placement more manageable.
Secondly, consider having a gunsmith do an action job & lower the trigger pull weight. With a lower pull weight, you don't need quite as much finger on the trigger to stroke the trigger. The usual caveats apply, though - too light a pull can lead to reliability issues. How light is too light is largely a matter of how the gun is to be used (SD vs range only) and whether you reload your own ammo.
Smoothed & radiused trigger on my N-frame 625: