Grip bushing staking

R

Roland Thunder

New member
I was in the process of replacing my grips on my 1911 Springfield Government Model 9mm. When I took the grip off on one side, the bushing came out along with the screws (common problem, I know). On the other side, the bushing stayed in tact. I am ordering some new bushings and screws from Brownells along with a tool to install them
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I read somewhere that on some 1911's the bushings are staked and you have to remove them with a staking tool. I figure since 2 of my bushings came out with the screws that my gun is probably not one that has staked bushings. Would anyone know, or how can I tell. If I have to get a staking tool to get the other bushings out, I want to order the staking tool along with the otheritems I am ordering so I don't have to pay shipping twice.
 
I read somewhere that on some 1911's the bushings are staked and you have to remove them with a staking tool.
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They are "staked" to keep them in. A staking tool will not remove them. If they come out with the screws, they will have to be removed from the screws, screwed back into the frame and then either staked with a staking tool or loctited to keep them from coming loose again.
 
So, it sounds like I have the choice of staking them or loctite and is not dependent on how the gun was manufactured?

In that case I would loctite them.
 
the 1911 was designed to be a military pistol. The reason it uses grip screw bushings is to reduce the number of ham fisted GIs stripping the screw holes in the FRAME. It was thought better, and more cost effective in the long run, to strip the bushing (and screw) than the threaded hole in the frame. And, they were correct.

Staking the bushing in place is done so that the bushing doesn't unscrew. Suitable bonding compounds (like locktite) didn't exist in 1910.

A staking tool is for apply the force needed to displace metal forming the "stake" that keeps things from moving. It is not for removing staked parts.

In Army repair shops in the 1970s (where I had personal experience) the staking tool for 1911 grip screw bushings was a special offset punch, AND a special support fixture for the frame.

For a private individual, I think a modern permanent adhesive (like the CORRECT Loctite product) would serve adequately well, properly applied.
 
"...staking them or Loctite..." Tiny drop of epoxy will do it too.
Staking is bashing 'em to make 'em a tick bigger so they stay put. Removing staking is done with a wee file.
 
This is all very helpful. So, if they are staked, and I assumed they are not since 2 of the bushings came out with the grip screws, (1) how does one remove the staked bushings. (2) How to tell if they are staked.

Sorry, for so many questions but, I have a habit of everything turning into a bigger project than it should be and I'm trying to avoid a trip to the gunsmith
 
Changing the bushings should be a piece of cake in your situation. I don't stake or loctite but I only buy good bushings and screws. I prefer thin grips and those require thin grip bushings.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
If they're staked, you have to file or grind through the staked (distorted/expanded) area so the bushing will come out.
There are special bushing drivers that will do a better job than a screwdriver for removal and replacement, but you can't force the bushing out if it's staked.
There are also "hex head" bushings available that can be driven with a conventional wrench or socket.
 
I suggest slowing down a bit.
So far,two bushings are out,two still there,yes?
Is there anything wrong with the original bushings or screws?
It might be that all you need is a little Loctite.Clean and re-install what you have.
A well fitted screw drive works just fine.
But first,the question is,what happened?I would suspect those bushings usually get staked.MAYBE the worker staked two then went to break?
If the remaing two are staked,and do not want to come out,leave them!

The threads in the frame are relatively soft,RC 22-24 or so.They are a very fine oddball thread,maybe 12-56? not sure.Note the price of the tap,and the .005 oversize tap on Brownell's.

Staking upsets the steel of the bushing to oversize.Just unscrewing staked bushings will goober up the threads in the frame.(Unless you go in and cut the staked end off o the bushing)Then you have an expensive problem.Oversize tap and bushings.

I can respect your plan of all new parts,all of the tools,to do it JMB style...
Are you going to build 1911's?

If you just want to fix your gun,degrease the bushings and grip frame and Loctite the bushings you have in place.Slightly mre than snug,but no white knuckles.Don't put the grip screws in while you are loctiting.You really do not want those glued in.
 
Few manufacturers today stake the bushings. Most use Loctite.

Remember that there are multiple grades/strengths of Loctite. Like pnac posted above, I use blue Loctite (medium hold) on the bushings, and if the grip screws themselves show a tendency to loosen during shooting I then use purple Loctite (low hold) on the screws themselves.
 
Aguila Blanca said:
Few manufacturers today stake the bushings. Most use Loctite.

Remember that there are multiple grades/strengths of Loctite. Like pnac posted above, I use blue Loctite (medium hold) on the bushings, and if the grip screws themselves show a tendency to loosen during shooting I then use purple Loctite (low hold) on the screws themselves.
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I have some blue loctite. I didn't even know there was a purple. I've seen red
 
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