Great Use For DuraCoat

H

HankL

New member
I like to tinker with my own firearms and from time to time need to cover up where I have been removing metal. I have been using cold blues up until this point and will continue to use it in some cases. For times when the firearm is going to be put back together and most likely fired before the next tinkering session DuraCoat is a great way for the hobbyist to protect the metal as well as have the project look like something.

Case in point:
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I started on this 1991-A1 several years ago and have fired a little over two thousand rounds through it since then.


Here it is now:
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I'm sure that I'm not through with it yet but for now it looks like it is a finished project instead of a work in progress. I think that this is a great use for DuraCoat.

I parts swapped and commited the following sins on the poor little Colt in several phases.

Fit MGW S.S. Barrel Bushing, modified and installed Wilson Slide Release, tuned and installed Wilson Bullet Proof extractor, fit and installed Wilson Thumb Safety, modified frame and fit Ed Brown Beavertail Grip Safety, installed C&S Tac/Match trigger pull kit along with C&S Series 80 trigger pull reduction kit, installed Wilson Speed Chute Mag Well and Checkered Mainspring housing, fit and installed Nowlin Lightweight trigger, installed Kim Aherends "Red Rasberry" grips,
install Chip McCormick rear sights, filed a carry bevel on sharp edges and modified front strap.
 

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baking laquer

Hank, It looks good, but how does the duracoat hold up. I tried browells bake on lacquer on my stainless safety, without sandblasting just degreasing and it chips off with the sliest touch. It’s an on going project for me to. I started with uncle nicks and harrys help with crowning my barrel and with the EGW barrel bushing shrank my groups down under two inches, I also tighten the slide, installed a action kit from nowlin ,and a ed brown beaver tail. It feels great and shoots even better I will post photos when it looks as good as it shoots. My thanks to all that share their knowledge so freely.
 
Redbill,
I too understand you're question and concerns. I have done 3 firearms and with the airbrush and Duracoat applied some very nice finishes. But......they don't hold up well. As you have noticed they do "chip" off. The best way to apply as mentioned by Lauer is to parkerize first--adhesion would be far greater.
 
For any of the spray on finishes prep is the most important feature and roughing up the surface is vital or it will simply chip off. The best thing is to bead blast with aluminum oxide and then sand as a second choice. Glass bead is not recomended as it tends to polish metal. I use silica sand due to price and availability and have never had any problems. Duracoat is a great product but seems to be a little softer than some of the bake on finishes such a gunkote but either is a fine finish that will hold up for a long time.

Thanks
James
 
Just as it was mentioned, the most important part is the prep work. The metal must be cleaned and degreased, and a good sandblasting helps the finish adhere to the metal.

Something else I have learned is you must allow the finsh to fully cure before subjecting it to real use. Lauer claims you can reassemble in as little as 24 hours, but I don't recommend it. Its much better to give the finish a week or so, especially on areas of high wear. I did a Rem 788 and allowed it to sit for almost a month before messing with it, and the finish has held up very well. In fact, none of the finish on the bolt lugs has chipped or worn off since I've used it.

Duracoat is a good product, but not as good as some of the ads proclaim. However, it is extremely easy to apply and relatively cheap to purchase. I will continue to use it, but I do understand what its limitations are.
 
Like I said, it's a work in progress. :) As far as durability, this pistol has not
undergone many presentations from the holster since the last Duracoating and I have not blasted or parkerized any of the parts so I really can't answer that question.
Arched MSH? All of the 1911's that I shoot on a regular basis have flat
MSHs and long triggers, just seems to fit my hands better that way. I do
like the look of a arched MSH though.
 
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