GREASE--which and how much?

T

Teufelhunden

New member
I need a recommendation on grease folks. I clean my weapons with the dry-lube One Shot, and it works great, but I want to stick some grease in my safety (Ruger P-94) mechanism to keep it working smoothly. Since my experiences with cleaning agents have been CLP and One Shot, what kind of grease do you recommend?

-Teuf
 
Wilson Combat has a teflon grease that comes in a handy syringe that lasts a long time and gives good service.

I used it on my carry pistols when I lived in the south because it would not melt off in the heat.
 
Make your own molybdenum disulfide (moly) grease.

Get some fine powdered moly and mix it with Breakfree CLP. You can mix it so that it's pretty dry and then when you wipe it on, it won't be runny or collect dust so much.

Just be aware that it will be black and will come off easily on fingers & clothes, etc. I use it on the inside components and use something like Sheath or MP-5 on the outside of the gun.

It's about as good as it gets for sliding contact areas and pivots.
 
Wilson's grease is not teflon, I don't think. It is white lithium with molydbenum disulfide (sp?). MB is the stuff used in Dri-slide.

It does not take much grease at all. Basically, if the part can have it rubbed by finger or Q-tip tip, that will be enough. For my 1911s, I apply what I apply work the parts together, take apart and remove excess. Even a little goes a long way.

While grease is great for summer carry because it does not evaporate or run out of the gun like oil, it can thicken/harden in winter temps, especially if the gun is not carried IWB, but OWB or left in a cold car. Thick grease can cause malfunctioning of parts that require a thinner lube.
 
I'll second Tetra gun grease. I put two dabs in each slide rail and smear some around the end of the barrel where the bushing rides on my 1911's. For the lock works I use Militech-1 oil.
 
I have been using RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) for over 20 years and it's worked well for me. I apply it in the slide rails and other moving parts using a pipe cleaner and everything runs smooth as butter.

Wally world sells it, as do many gun stores.
 
Gunslick. Yeah, it's old but it works great. I'm an old fashioned guy. I use Hoppes #9, gun oil and Gunslick. Those three have never failed.
 
I'll second (or maybe it's "third") Wilson Combat's "Ultimalube". Never used anything half as good ('course, there's not much in the way of "exotics" around here, last gunshop got ran off the market a couple years back. Wasn't too big on selection then.).
 
I've taken to using automotive grease, the moly grease that comes in the small cartridges for portable grease guns. 3 cartridges look like a long-term supply. It seems to make things glide pretty smoothly and from observing its performance on auto parts (hood latches, striker plates), it looks like it really clings well to metal. I would use Gunslick if I could find it, but other than the small tube supplied in some gun cleaning kits, I haven't been able to put my hands on any.
 
I've used Wilson's for years, it's very convenient in the syringe. But I've also heard great things about Tetra and plan on purchasing some of that in the near future to give it a try.
 
BREAKFREE CLP and TETRAGREASE

Based on environment (sand/mud/rain/snow/temperature/rd count) I'll dab a pinch of TG on slide rails, sears, slide stop pin/cam hole, strut tips, both semi and wheel.

Everything else gets CLP.

Crap environment, CLP only.
 
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