Graphite question

O

oilcan72

New member
Helo All,


I'm not sure where to post this, this is a likely spot. My question is is graphite powder ok to use for "lubrication" on a firearm? I came across a bunch of graphite powder and I know it's pretty slick, I was just wonderin' thought about putting it on my 45 auto and on the cylinder pin on my Remmy and Walker.

Thanks,

oilcan72
 
The major drawback is that it is a dirty lube, that is the graphite is black in color because it is a form of carbon.
That said I can not see any reason not to use it in certain areas of a gun. As you said cylinder pin, possibly lock work on a sidelock muzzleloader.

When blackpowder is made one of the steps is to add a quanity of graphite, makes the grains flow better and controls staic electricty.
You can add it to bullet lube, many of the older lube formulas use it as a additive.
In many areas conventional oils will be better than the graphite, keep it around you will find many uses for it.
 
There is a gentleman on The High Road blackpowder shooting forum, whose moniker I can't recall offhand, who uses it exclusively and reports good results. The major drawback others have reported is cost, but if one has an inexpensive supply the consensus seems to be it's okay. Personally, I've never tried it myself.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
Real question is: Why?
Click to expand...

It was said that coating the trigger action parts with it would help to prevent black powder residue from sticking and accumulating while providing lubrication. Liquid oil tends to gunk up when mixed with powder residue whereas dry graphite simply resists any sluggish build up.
Because it's powdered it adheres to the parts evenly without running or pooling due to gravity and stays put.
It's also extremely temperature resistant and can readily be mixed with other lubes.
Larger containers are usually more economically priced and it's such a fine powder that a little goes a long way.
It was highly recommended for being effective and compatible for use with BP revolvers.
 
Last edited:
Mix your graphite with rubbing alcohol. You can paint it on your parts with a Q-tip. It dries in seconds.

Also good for putting in your molds if you cast, it makes the bullets fall out of the mold.
 
Not true with my method of apply'n graphite. I've done this for years with many types of molds and never had any problems with size.

I've also used this method on everything from 1911 rails to black powder locks.
Only thing id say not to use it on is aluminum framed guns.
 
C'mon now. Anything you put inside the mold, no matter how thin, reduces the internal capacity of the mold. It's simple physics. No two things can occupy the same space.
 
Ok I won't argue physics with you. But a measurement of .00000000000001 is not going to make any noticible differance.
Ok .0000000000000001 might be wrong so break out your calipers that you got in physics class and measure the mold befor and after apply'n graphite. Trust me it won't amount to any thing noticable that will detract from an accurate casting.
Casters and mold makers use something called Mold Prep, its basically graphite and alcohole. But its cheaper to make your own.
Remember molly coated bullets and barrel treatments? Its another type of micro film. That worked as a dry lube with out build up or closeing the diameter of the barrel.

You are correct but it is a mesurement on a micorscopic level.
 
Hey everyone Thanks for the replies, I'm going to try mixing with alcohol idea for my 1911, and on the Remmy too. As to the question of why, why not I got a bunch of it for no cost, so I thought I'd use it. My son isn't old enough for pinewood derby yet. :D


Thanks again,

oilcan72
 
I use Teflon spray a lot on my guns. It won't gunk up like graphite and oil mixed with black powder fouling will. Dupont Teflon in the blue spray can from Home Depot.



.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top