GP100 vs 686

S

SixGunner

New member
Hey guys. As many of you might remember, recently I had three guns stolen, including my GP100. Well, the insurance check has gotten here and it's time to replace the GP. I'm looking for a 4", Stainless steel, adjustable sight-equiped, strong-as-he!! revolver. The two I am considering are the S&W 686 and the Ruger GP100.

From what I have seen, Ruger isn't building their guns the way they used to (front sites off centerline, etc). From the looks of both guns it seems that they should be equally strong since the cylinders are the same diameter.

Anyone got any recommendations on one over the other? I have replacement insurance and with the work I had done on the Ruger I got about the price of the S&W.

I also looked at the 686+ (7 shot). This won't be a carry gun so the slight extra bulk of the 7-shooter isn't a problem but is it as strong as the 6-shooter?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
There's more to long-term strength than the cylinder. GP100s lock up at the crane as well as the back of the cylinder...at least theoretically, the GP cylinder placement should be more rigid. And that lack of flex at firing is a good thing.

I recently had a chance to try the trigger on a well-used GP100 stainless owned by a local range (rental gun). Lockup and other issues were rock-solid, they claimed it was a superb shooter and the trigger...DEAR GOD what a trigger. DA was dead smooth through the whole stroke, no stacking, SA was "glass rod breaking". No gunsmithing aside from plain ol' use. Stock springs. I was simply shocked. Best trigger I've ever felt.

It was all the more shocking since they had just gotten a Performance Center 8-shot N-Frame 357...which had a trigger that flat out sucked.

Here's what I'd do:

I'd hand-pick a GP100 using "the checkout", even if it took trips to multiple shops, or cruising a whole gun show or two.

The checkout:

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816

Since the GP100 takes down so easily, there are several ways of fine-buffing the sides of the hammer and trigger to smooth the action without affecting the sear engagements. Don't mess with the sear contact surfaces unless you KNOW what you're doing. Don't whatever you do use a dremel tool! With the sides of the hammer/trigger buffed like mirrors, you'll get a smoother action with no "downsides". Then just dry-fire the heck out of it - 1,000 strokes minimum. At that point, if you still don't like what you have, try lighter springs (while testing for ignition reliability!). The smoothness you'll have already will let lighter springs move the hammer faster than they otherwise would, increasing reliability with light springs.

A Wolff spring kit will run you less than $20. Extra-fine sandpaper is pretty cheap too :).

This will just speed you along to the point I saw at that range.
 
Jim,

You're right - I forgot about the lockup difference. I'm still deciding which I want, although I'll probably get both eventually anyway (I like .357 revolvers). It's gonna be a while anyway (a month or two at least).
 
I was trying to make the same decision a few weeks ago.
GP100 vs 686
It came down to the Ruger was stronger, the 686 had a better trigger. I liked the looks of the Ruger better, and the deciding factor was the ruger simply felt better in my hand.
 
I have both, the 686 and the KGP141. There's not a heck of a lot of difference between them. Triggers are very close, even putting a scale on them. Smoothness of action about the same. Accuracy is terrific with both. I like the adjustable sights better on the Smith than on the Ruger (must use a jewelers screwdriver on the Ruger, other than that no real difference).

As far as the Ruger being stronger, I have not heard of anyone wearing out either and would like to see some evidence of this difference (not opinion).

I put both up for sale, awhile back (MAR), to finance another project. The Smith sold first, so I kept the Ruger. I just bought the Smith back last month (new owner was a Glockaholic and couldn't get used to using a revolver).

Bottom line, I would handle both and go with the one that felt better to me. They are both great guns and should out live you.
 
Get the GP-100, like this.

Tony


16560164.jpg
 
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