GP100 dry firing ect.

[MarkT]

I'm not too well informed on the subject of triggers and how to smooth them out for better accuracy so bear with me, I'm sure this is old to most of you. My question is two part. I always thought that it was not good to dry fire a gun for fear of damage to the firing pin? I have read through some of the posts on here that say to dry fire the hell out of my GP100 to help smooth things out. Is this supposed to be done without anything in the chambers (ie dummy cases)?
For my second part, my gun has a difference of 1/32nd of an inch from side to side where the barrel rib meets the strap on top.(being from the outside of the rib to the outside of the strap) Now since the rear sight is attached to the strap this makes a big difference on how it lines up with the front sight. I have to adjust the rear sight 1/32nd of an inch to the right to get them to line up and shoot straight. Am I just being too picky with this or what? I would sure think even with a factory gun it should be right, any opinions? I have mostly all Ruger guns and love them all but this bothers me and I never noticed it until I went to shoot it.
Mark

 

[Arub]

As to dry firing, don't hesitate. I had the same concern a while ago and contacted Ruger. They said 'no problem' dry firing any of their handguns except for the .22s.

The 'misalignment' of barrel rib to top strap, if I interpret what you're saying correctly, I would not consider a problem. As long as the chambers line up with the forcing cone, you shouldn't have any problems. If you're striving for perfection, you may want to consider a Smith or Colt. The higher priced models bring somewhat better fit and finish.

That said, I have a GP141 and a Smith 686. Accuracy wise, they are tied. The Smith is better fitted and finished, has a slightly better double action trigger pull (subjective) and cost substantially more the the GP. I find myself carrying the Ruger more often than the Smith.