GP 100s and SP101s

P

Patrick Graham

Moderator
I've got both and I really like them but they have one nagging little idiosyncrasy, the spring return on the trigger. If you should happen to have your finger in the way when the trigger is returning home and then try to pull the trigger again you can actually lock them up in double action mode. Is it me or am I just getting too old to be handling firearms? The Ruger frames are beefy and can really stand up to the punishment but when it comes to double action the company who’s two word name we can no longer say (begins with an S) makes a much better double action.
 
Have the same trouble using my GP's or 44 Redhawk shooting USPSA matches.
I've just slowed down my splits slightly to obtain reliable trigger reset.
 
I agree that the Company whose name cannot be spoken has a better trigger than Ruger. I have an old Victory model by that Company and it has the older, elogated sear which gave an excellant trigger pull.

Rugers triggers must be released so that the trigger resets against the sear. With practice, you can feel the "click" when this happens (you can also do this with a semiautomatic pistol) and once you've mastered this, you'll be better skilled at reactive target shooting.
 
I can live with a crappy trigger on Rugers...after all they usually break in after 1000 rounds and get better. If not, I can get a gunsmith to smooth out the pull. In every other area (besides trigger), the Ruger is a better revolver than are S&Ws IMO. I like the features (more user friendly), handling, and durability much better on Rugers.
 
I have the GP100 (GP141 model). I'd noticed that also but got the trigger fixed. I don't know if the smithy removed the Ruger trigger assem. and put in another (the trigger is defin. different) or just fixed the one that it had. I don't know but I do know that it's alot better now. The only thing that I'd wish he hadn't done is cut down the trigger pull (lbs). If you dare cock the hammer back, your finger HAD better be off the trigger (and the wind had better stay still). In DA mode, the trigger is about right on the pull.

USP45usp
 
I've got a GP100 w/4" barrel and I have put about 500 rounds through it. The trigger is fine now. I would recommend a bunch of snap caps and dry firing at home. It helps the trigger and the finger.

I've also got an SP101 with 2 1/4" barrel. Nice rugged piece, but the trigger is going to the smith! Bad tigger, Bad. After about 36 rounds, my finger begins to fatigue.:(

Go to the smith!

Rgards,
MP
 
fortunately, all you have to do is let go the trigger and it will re-set. Does just stop right there though if you try to shoot again before reset. I don't worry about it very much. I have heard of people doing this with pythons and bumming out the action entirely. Seems like it was something Ayoob wrote years ago. Guy was shooting it out in his house, short stroked the python and bent something critical in the lockwork.
 
If you should happen to have your finger in the way when the trigger is returning home and then try to pull the trigger again you can actually lock them up in double action mode.
Click to expand...
LOCK them up? All you have to do is release the trigger fully and you're good to go again.
 
Yup I got two GP100s in 6" full lug and I had trouble locking up, but it seems like it wears in after a thousand rounds or two. My trouble now is when trying to go fast on a rack of steel plates I get that light pull and it only rotates the cylinder without cocking the hammer. Ooooohhhh boy those $uc*$ when a chamber or 2 gets skipped on a 6 plate rack. Definitely have to lower the split times when that happens. I do have a S... and I can also replicate the same problem but it doesn't happen very much when going for speed. josh
 
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