hello there, just got my gp100 spring kit from wolfs and have the mainspring out, not real hard, got the hammer out, no sweat, but the trigger assembly is impossible.... any tips on how to get it out so i can put in the lighter trigger return springs?,,,, and how many of you put new springs into revolvers to lessen the trigger pull etc.....?
gp 100?
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oh well, figured it out, not any thing like those stupid drawings in the ruger owner manual,, once i go the trigger housing out though,, whew, that only took about 3 hours to put back together again, all those stupid little springs and things falling and zinging around all vover the place, and those pins that are impossible to get back in,, i guess my big fat fingers weren't made to work on itty bitty stuff like that, now that it is done, the trigger pull is great, and i will never screw with that gun again,,,,, now that i know how to do it and how cheap it was though i might do the same for my redhawk though
Spriings
I have done this a few times myself. After a time or two it comes by second nature and takes but a couple of minutes to strip down. Brownells has a tool, the "Ruger Popper", which you insert through the hammer slot in the frame and wedge against the rear of this on the trigger plunger to make it getting out easy. I lived a long time without it but it is handy.
Once the trigger guard is out if the trigger is not moved so the hand or pawl comes up the other parts should not fly out. As you found out the little pin in the rear can be pushed out and the trigger return spring changed easily. I used the 8 pound spring in my GP.
As noted above I would use Winchester or Federal ammo or primers to avoid misfires as CCI are about the hardest. This depends of course on which mainspring you used. In mine I had the headspace set at minimum so have not had any misfires yet with the 9 pound mainspring but some people have had to use the 10 pound one.
Welcome to the club,
Jim
I have done this a few times myself. After a time or two it comes by second nature and takes but a couple of minutes to strip down. Brownells has a tool, the "Ruger Popper", which you insert through the hammer slot in the frame and wedge against the rear of this on the trigger plunger to make it getting out easy. I lived a long time without it but it is handy.
Once the trigger guard is out if the trigger is not moved so the hand or pawl comes up the other parts should not fly out. As you found out the little pin in the rear can be pushed out and the trigger return spring changed easily. I used the 8 pound spring in my GP.
As noted above I would use Winchester or Federal ammo or primers to avoid misfires as CCI are about the hardest. This depends of course on which mainspring you used. In mine I had the headspace set at minimum so have not had any misfires yet with the 9 pound mainspring but some people have had to use the 10 pound one.
Welcome to the club,
Jim
UBoatCaptain
Inactive
don't touch the Trigger Return Spring
Don't touch the Trigger Return Spring. The Hammer Spring is one thing, the T/G Housing Spring is quite another. I have found that a GP100 can tolerate a 10 lbs. Main Spring and show viturally the same Firing Pin Protrusion as a heavy (say 14 pound stock spring). However, my gun was tuned and drag factors eliminated. Problem is, the Trigger Return Spring tampering can alter the Transfer Bar returning to the safe position. You are comprimising safety when you attempt to lighten the T/G Housing Spring.
Don't touch the Trigger Return Spring. The Hammer Spring is one thing, the T/G Housing Spring is quite another. I have found that a GP100 can tolerate a 10 lbs. Main Spring and show viturally the same Firing Pin Protrusion as a heavy (say 14 pound stock spring). However, my gun was tuned and drag factors eliminated. Problem is, the Trigger Return Spring tampering can alter the Transfer Bar returning to the safe position. You are comprimising safety when you attempt to lighten the T/G Housing Spring.
put the ten lb main spring in, and the lightest trigger return spring in, and the gun seems to work perfcetly, will try it out tomorrow, every thing locks up nicely and the trigger pull is sweet now, still dry firing yo smooth it out some but it sure is sweet now, what problems have you had with the safetey bar thing? mine seems to be working nicely
I haven't had any problems so far. The transfer bar is attached to the trigger. If the transfer bar were to hang up on the firing pin the trigger would not move forward or reset. The cylinder would not turn so a new round would not come up. I guess it could be a problem if the round misfired as you would have a live round under the firing pin. On the other hand if the trigger did not return all the way one would be aware of it.
That is a concern with a light trigger return spring. If the trigger does not go all the way forward and reset the firearm will jam until one manually forces the trigger forward. To be honest I have never had that happen.
You might post this question over at www.pistolsmith.com in the Ruger revolver section or www.sixgunner.com or www.sixguns.com in the discussion section to see what replies you will get.
Good shooting,
Jim
That is a concern with a light trigger return spring. If the trigger does not go all the way forward and reset the firearm will jam until one manually forces the trigger forward. To be honest I have never had that happen.
You might post this question over at www.pistolsmith.com in the Ruger revolver section or www.sixgunner.com or www.sixguns.com in the discussion section to see what replies you will get.
Good shooting,
Jim
UBoatCaptain
Inactive
Transfer Bar timing
First of all, it seems that you folks may not be trained gunsmiths. The problem with the lighter (aftermarket 10 pounds) T/G spring is as follows: You will notice that the T/G housing (when removed from the frame) that the S/A travel is very short and indeed very light (even with the stock T/G spring rated at 12 pounds). Therefore, the T/G return spring is critical for the Transfer Bar timing to be on. The travel is so short, that tampering with this spring leads to problems (you might eventually feel clicking). This is a sure sign of damage your Transfer Bar. (FYI, I've also seen this in a gun with improper DA sear letout).
In theory, the Transfer bar would return to the safe position UNLESS the TRIGGER IS HELD BACK. This is a passive safety system built into the gun and is dependant upon spring inertia to return to safe. The narrow travel and weight of the spring lends itself to creating more problems with the mechanism then solving any perceived over weight trigger pull. There is a timing test for Transfer Bar to be in time. Sorry, but you folks are wrong on this one. Don't screw with it and gauge your FPP on mainspring inertia. Of course, the factory doesn't condone any work outside of factory assembly and gauging.
First of all, it seems that you folks may not be trained gunsmiths. The problem with the lighter (aftermarket 10 pounds) T/G spring is as follows: You will notice that the T/G housing (when removed from the frame) that the S/A travel is very short and indeed very light (even with the stock T/G spring rated at 12 pounds). Therefore, the T/G return spring is critical for the Transfer Bar timing to be on. The travel is so short, that tampering with this spring leads to problems (you might eventually feel clicking). This is a sure sign of damage your Transfer Bar. (FYI, I've also seen this in a gun with improper DA sear letout).
In theory, the Transfer bar would return to the safe position UNLESS the TRIGGER IS HELD BACK. This is a passive safety system built into the gun and is dependant upon spring inertia to return to safe. The narrow travel and weight of the spring lends itself to creating more problems with the mechanism then solving any perceived over weight trigger pull. There is a timing test for Transfer Bar to be in time. Sorry, but you folks are wrong on this one. Don't screw with it and gauge your FPP on mainspring inertia. Of course, the factory doesn't condone any work outside of factory assembly and gauging.
I'm not a trained gunsmith, don't even play one on TV. Replaced the trigger return spring on my GP a couple thousand rounds ago, have experienced none of the problems that you describe.
A SP101 however, had a problem in that it would hang up when cocking it to shoot single action until I replaced the lighter trigger return with the factory. Problem there (as explained by Jack Weigand) is that the lighter spring doesn't have the power needed to return the trigger forcefully enough to reset fully.
A SP101 however, had a problem in that it would hang up when cocking it to shoot single action until I replaced the lighter trigger return with the factory. Problem there (as explained by Jack Weigand) is that the lighter spring doesn't have the power needed to return the trigger forcefully enough to reset fully.
UBoatCaptain
Inactive
so much for lighter T/G springs
Well, that's an indictment against light trigger return springs. I have found lighter trigger return springs a problem in SP101s. Your SP101 exibited problems that are attributed to lighter T/G housing springs. The T/G spring will not lighten your single action trigger pull at all. In fact, it compromises reliable trigger reset. Most folks do not understand that even going beyond 12 pounds on the hammer spring is a problem acute in smaller SP101 models. Reason: Trigger mass is less and I have found 12 pounds the lightest I would go on a hammer spring. Provided, the gun met the minimum requirements of firing pin protrusion. If you don't believe in guage inspection of firearms. Then you probably fall into the catagory of people that perform work on guns and find out that the only thing that happens is malfunctions. Do yourself a favor, get a firing pin protrusion tool. It is cheap insurance against poor ignition and prevention of misfires. A good reading is .040-041.
Well, that's an indictment against light trigger return springs. I have found lighter trigger return springs a problem in SP101s. Your SP101 exibited problems that are attributed to lighter T/G housing springs. The T/G spring will not lighten your single action trigger pull at all. In fact, it compromises reliable trigger reset. Most folks do not understand that even going beyond 12 pounds on the hammer spring is a problem acute in smaller SP101 models. Reason: Trigger mass is less and I have found 12 pounds the lightest I would go on a hammer spring. Provided, the gun met the minimum requirements of firing pin protrusion. If you don't believe in guage inspection of firearms. Then you probably fall into the catagory of people that perform work on guns and find out that the only thing that happens is malfunctions. Do yourself a favor, get a firing pin protrusion tool. It is cheap insurance against poor ignition and prevention of misfires. A good reading is .040-041.
UBoatCaptain
Inactive
transfer bar timing
One more thing SK. You should check your transfer bar timing on your GP. What you don't feel or see on a gun CAN hurt the mechanism. Like I have said in my last post. I have seen a Ruger revolver without proper sear letout adjustments on the double action sear. This affected the hammer arc timing and caused visible damage to the transfer bar. You don't have to be a gunsmith for that. Only if the gun fails the test. Then it is time to get someone on it who does. What is funny in the world of the home gunsmith is the silly things that people do. One net sight "Real Guns" complained about a Wilson Sear fixture being off diamensionally. The site insinuated that Ruger trigger was ground crooked and had to be leveled with the stone. What the poor internet woodby gunsmith didn't know is that is the correct angle of the Ruger sear. It compensates for the transfer bar differential. The guy grounded it off! Said his trigger pull increased. Oh my, I thought. That is the pitfall of no shop training and classroom time. Working on guns is serious buisness. Of course, the factory wants nothing of people who meddle wth the products. There are folks with training that can actually improve the product. I don't think the factory would be able to spend four to five hours on tuning a gun. I have and the results would leave anyone pleasantly suprised.
One more thing SK. You should check your transfer bar timing on your GP. What you don't feel or see on a gun CAN hurt the mechanism. Like I have said in my last post. I have seen a Ruger revolver without proper sear letout adjustments on the double action sear. This affected the hammer arc timing and caused visible damage to the transfer bar. You don't have to be a gunsmith for that. Only if the gun fails the test. Then it is time to get someone on it who does. What is funny in the world of the home gunsmith is the silly things that people do. One net sight "Real Guns" complained about a Wilson Sear fixture being off diamensionally. The site insinuated that Ruger trigger was ground crooked and had to be leveled with the stone. What the poor internet woodby gunsmith didn't know is that is the correct angle of the Ruger sear. It compensates for the transfer bar differential. The guy grounded it off! Said his trigger pull increased. Oh my, I thought. That is the pitfall of no shop training and classroom time. Working on guns is serious buisness. Of course, the factory wants nothing of people who meddle wth the products. There are folks with training that can actually improve the product. I don't think the factory would be able to spend four to five hours on tuning a gun. I have and the results would leave anyone pleasantly suprised.
Here is a web site that explains the steps and does have some picture also.
http://www.milesfortis.com/guests/mcump/mc06.htm
Tony
http://www.milesfortis.com/guests/mcump/mc06.htm
Tony
this is a weustion based on the fact that my gp100 did this before i switched the trigger retunr spring,, my gp1oo when i spin the cylinder takes a couple of clicks before it locks in when i swing the cylinder back into place,,, is this normal, the cylinder to barrel spacing seems good but this problem seems to be non existent in my rhk, that i have not fooled with, what you guys think?