GP 100 Trigger Question

M

mathman

New member
I'm picking up a Ruger GP 100 on Friday. Is it really worth my while to buy six snap caps and pull the trigger a thousand times to improve the trigger pull? Anyone knowledgeable on this one?
 
I think any gun if you do that too will 'break-in' the weapon. Just make sure the snap cap primers do not wear out otherwise they will get jammed and your firing pin will hit a hard surface. I'm not sure on the life of the snap caps (how many shots?)

I do believe there are a few other guys on here that did a 'job' on their gp100 trigger, I'm sure they will post.
 
For the price of those snap caps, you could have bought a spring kit that will do much more than just breakin in the parts. However, springs are still just a bandaid compared to a trigger job that a experienced smith can do for you.
 
mathman,

Buy the snapcaps if you want, I've not heard of problems with dryfiring the GP100.

A real simple solution is to strip the gun as per the manual and remove the transfer bar (long paddle looking object) from the trigger assembly. Put it back together and dryfire to your hearts content. The hammer will never touch the firing pin.
 
Once you take that GP trigger group down and see how simple it is polishing everything helps out alot more than a set of springs.I went both routes with mine (springs and polishing) though and came out with a trigger better than my python's.
 
This old man has never seen a Ruger trigger as good as a Python .my Pythons are old and slick as can be right out of the box 4 inch 1971 6 inch 1968 the best trigger on a pistol i have ever felt is on a 1972 S&W modle19 /6 inch done by Lenny the gunsmith at Warren county firearms in Oxford New Jersey if I rember corectley it was on brass castil rd .he is more tan likley dead by now ,i rember he charged me $23.00 bucks for the action work and $219.00 for the modle 19 new in the box and free range time for a year with a gun purchase.I will never sell that one .
 
Polishing the innards can work well in smoothing things up, but keep in mind that this can cause grief as well, but the biggest greif is caused by the changing if springs. I think ruger springs are made as heavy as they are to keep from having to extensively smooth out the innards and still keep things functioning.

Before doing a complete take down of the trigger group, I reccomend studying things, taking a few pics, etc. Typical of ruger, it is really simple, it just looks complex, and can be confusing.

Also, tiptoe around work on the trigger and hammer themselves, be very light on them, and do not use a dremel when smoothing out mating surfaces, infact, do all the work with (try not to laugh) an emory board, they work well, and leave a smooth surface. taking too much off can be a bear, and triggers and hammers are factory fit only so it will end up with a trip to the factory to fix and major boo-boo's.

another method of polishing I like to use is to get some metal polish (like Maas or flitz) and heavy construction paper, and smear polish on the paper and work the part with the paper sitting on a hard, flat surface.

And yet another method I have had some success with...really try not to laugh guys....I use metal polish like a lube, smear everything down with it, put it all together, and dry fire till my fingers hurt......


.....Warning.... keep in mind, I am a SICK puppy, and should have been sterilized to prevent the world from being infested with people that are too stupidly self reliant to ever goto a professional.......This stuff works for me, but I am no way responsible for any ommissions in technique, etc. that may cause damage to you or your guns. I am not a professional, just a gadget junkie.
 
Don't need snap caps with this gun unless you want to - dry fire it as much as you want. The more you do, the smoother it'll get, and your trigger pull will improve to boot...
 
Is it really OK to dry fire a GP-100 as many times as you want? Conventional wisdom has always stated otherwise. Anyone else want to give some valuable input?
 
Mathdude....

Conventional wisdom is probably rooted in gun dealers not wanting to sell guns that have "ring around the cylinder", or from percussion cap guns and/or some rimfires.

Also, Ruger lets you know if a certain model can be dry fired, and the info is in the manual, which is available in pdf format on the ruger site, but for everyones enlightenment, I'll quote...


"“Dry Firing” is practicing the trigger pull of the empty revolver for practice and familiarity. The GP100 revolver can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or internal components. "


Man, I wish Mythbusters would do a show on gun myths.
 
I got a new G-100 about a month ago,I just took it out and shot it' one of the most accurate guns I have.Some gunsmiths won't do a trigger job on a new gun till it wears in some.I think the book says it won't hurt to dry fire, but 1000 times NO WAY at least no gun of mine.Well I say i'ts new the gun has to be 15 years old but has never been fired,found it in a pawn shop,still new in the box.
 
yekimak,

Thanks for the enlightenment...I guess I should read my owner's manual. 'mathdude'...hmmm...that sounds better than mathman! I wonder if they'll let me change my name???
 
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