Not that mine is bad, but I would like to lighten up the double action a bit. I just did my first field strip and through cleaning and it got me thinking (i had to look up a video for the trigger group). What are the fairly simple mods to get a better pull? I saw videos on triggers, spring kits, hammers, etc. I don't need the best out there, but what is a good working man's simple improvement for them? Thanks.
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GP 100 Trigger Improvement?
- Thread starter baddarryl
- Start date
You could go with a Wolff shooter's pack,
http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/RUGER/GP-100/cID3/mID52/dID233
and adjust that way.
What I did was the old tried and true Army Marksmanship Unit way of doing a trigger job.... While sitting there watching (fill in preferred TV show here) keep pulling the trigger and wear in the action.
It's nice and smooth, plus Mr. Trigger Finger is a little more beefed up.
http://www.gunsprings.com/Revolvers/RUGER/GP-100/cID3/mID52/dID233
and adjust that way.
What I did was the old tried and true Army Marksmanship Unit way of doing a trigger job.... While sitting there watching (fill in preferred TV show here) keep pulling the trigger and wear in the action.
It's nice and smooth, plus Mr. Trigger Finger is a little more beefed up.
polish surfaces that are ruff/galled , no reshaping or metal removal , avoid the sears it takes a little knowledge/magnification & good stones to adjust em .
Trigger & hammer shimms recommended.
1 area over looked is the well for the trigger return/ trigger latch spring well
polish this with a 13/64 drill bit turned backwards & fine lapping ,finishing with FLITZ
another over looked area is the side of the pawl that rubs the window ,must be smooth.
I use 10# trigger & a 12# hammer , nice pull after smoothing stuff up & 100%reliable even on cci 400 primers.
1 more thing don`t reshape/or remove much from the trigger plunger (1/2 arrow shaped peice) this peice is for trigger reset & if rounded off will not reset .
Also the other end of the pawl spring is what pushes on the trigger plunger make certain it`s free & strong for qwik/positive resets.
Trigger & hammer shimms recommended.
1 area over looked is the well for the trigger return/ trigger latch spring well
polish this with a 13/64 drill bit turned backwards & fine lapping ,finishing with FLITZ
another over looked area is the side of the pawl that rubs the window ,must be smooth.
I use 10# trigger & a 12# hammer , nice pull after smoothing stuff up & 100%reliable even on cci 400 primers.
1 more thing don`t reshape/or remove much from the trigger plunger (1/2 arrow shaped peice) this peice is for trigger reset & if rounded off will not reset .
Also the other end of the pawl spring is what pushes on the trigger plunger make certain it`s free & strong for qwik/positive resets.
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I ended up using the 8 lb trigger spring only in the 2 gp100s I have as well as in 2 of the SRH's I used the wilson in 2 1-gp and 1 SRH and the Wolff in the other 2. The Wilson gives the lighter pull. I did not change the Hammer spring because it slows down lock time and I can use all the help I can, if you do change the Hammer spring you will however notice a much better Double action pull. GP100Mans combination gives him lighter double action pull with a faster trigger return, my set up slows up trigger return and if speed is important you may want the heavier trigger return spring. Also his other mods are a good idea as well.
As of late Rugers GPs and SRHs have been coming through with a little better trigger pull than in the past, at least on the few that I have seen.
As of late Rugers GPs and SRHs have been coming through with a little better trigger pull than in the past, at least on the few that I have seen.
warningshot
New member
Does the Pistolsmith come over and due your taxes, program your computer, repelace a crown, analyze a x-ray, re-set the airbag gizmo on your steering wheel?
When you can give a 5 minute lecture, on the topic of spring tension, to a class of High School begining metal shop students, without repeating yourself, then maybe, just maybe, you might be able to make an informed decision on the need of replacing a serviceable factory installed spring inside of any Ruger revolver.
When you can give a 5 minute lecture, on the topic of spring tension, to a class of High School begining metal shop students, without repeating yourself, then maybe, just maybe, you might be able to make an informed decision on the need of replacing a serviceable factory installed spring inside of any Ruger revolver.
warningshot
New member
My intention is not to be so tuff. But the designers and techs whom put those guns out know what they are doing. There is a reason why unaltered revolvers are 99.9999% times more likely to be more valueable than those that have been 'Handy-Hand-Dead'.
Stressfire
New member
What I did was the old tried and true Army Marksmanship Unit way of doing a trigger job.... While sitting there watching (fill in preferred TV show here) keep pulling the trigger and wear in the action.
It's nice and smooth, plus Mr. Trigger Finger is a little more beefed up.
Pretty much what I do with mine. That, and just shoot it.
DA smoothed out pretty fast, and SA was beautiful to begin with.
Warningshot, although I can see the wisdom in what you say I can not agree with it 100% example:
My Father Has a Colt Python 6" Blued 357 mag that has been altered by the factory, it comes with documents from Colt explaining the Mods. This actually brought the value of the Handgun up not down. Can't figure out why if the designers and techs whom put those guns out know what they are doing, they would ever have to make any Mods to improve them. By the way the Colt mod also resulted in some rounds not firing, not enough hammer strike. Working on a revolver is not rocket science by any stretch and most factory guns can be improved. They try to arrive at an average that will be suitable for most individuals and lighter trigger means for those who are not experience they could be more dangerous. I am not concerned with what Joe Blow down the street may prefer, just what suits my needs. Just remember any mods you make are done at your own risk. Funny concept that any one would be responsible for there own actions in today's society.
GP100man don't know if they are all the same from the factory now but my buddy's SRH 44 mag 7.5" came through at a good enough pull he did not want to lighten it, and my GP100 4" was much better than the older SRHs I have had in the past. I still changed the trigger spring, polished parts and shimmed trigger, hammer and hammer dog. Once I get a set of good Carbide drill bits I am going to lighten the Hammer and try the 12 lb hammer spring. I am not worried that I may ruin the hammer, as if I do it is replaceable, nothing ventured nothing gained.
My Father Has a Colt Python 6" Blued 357 mag that has been altered by the factory, it comes with documents from Colt explaining the Mods. This actually brought the value of the Handgun up not down. Can't figure out why if the designers and techs whom put those guns out know what they are doing, they would ever have to make any Mods to improve them. By the way the Colt mod also resulted in some rounds not firing, not enough hammer strike. Working on a revolver is not rocket science by any stretch and most factory guns can be improved. They try to arrive at an average that will be suitable for most individuals and lighter trigger means for those who are not experience they could be more dangerous. I am not concerned with what Joe Blow down the street may prefer, just what suits my needs. Just remember any mods you make are done at your own risk. Funny concept that any one would be responsible for there own actions in today's society.
GP100man don't know if they are all the same from the factory now but my buddy's SRH 44 mag 7.5" came through at a good enough pull he did not want to lighten it, and my GP100 4" was much better than the older SRHs I have had in the past. I still changed the trigger spring, polished parts and shimmed trigger, hammer and hammer dog. Once I get a set of good Carbide drill bits I am going to lighten the Hammer and try the 12 lb hammer spring. I am not worried that I may ruin the hammer, as if I do it is replaceable, nothing ventured nothing gained.
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warningshot
New member
bowfissh
I was refering to 'Factory' work. Colt... Factory...
As far as Ruger goes, Factory Ruger new parts are inexpensive and available as compared to Colt.
Plenty of excellent gunsmiths openly admit they destroyed perfectly good guns before they really knew what they were doing. Do you have any idea how many 5 screw S&Ws, Pythons, and Colt, civillian and Military, 1911's were improved buy adding compensators and after martket springs alone?
'Have Milling Machine. Will Travel.'
"A Welder By Day and Exotic Dancer By Night'' (1983 movie, Flash somethng, Dance, Flash, whatever) is more believeable than Information Worker, slash, GP 100 Improver.
On the flip side...plenty of ordinary Joe Six_Packs of the world, (tinkering outside their day job skill level), made plenty of improvements on mechanical factory gizmoes. Please don't let me hamper your learning expeiments, as well as your fun and enjoyment. Best of luck. Happy Holidays.
I was refering to 'Factory' work. Colt... Factory...
As far as Ruger goes, Factory Ruger new parts are inexpensive and available as compared to Colt.
Plenty of excellent gunsmiths openly admit they destroyed perfectly good guns before they really knew what they were doing. Do you have any idea how many 5 screw S&Ws, Pythons, and Colt, civillian and Military, 1911's were improved buy adding compensators and after martket springs alone?
'Have Milling Machine. Will Travel.'
"A Welder By Day and Exotic Dancer By Night'' (1983 movie, Flash somethng, Dance, Flash, whatever) is more believeable than Information Worker, slash, GP 100 Improver.
On the flip side...plenty of ordinary Joe Six_Packs of the world, (tinkering outside their day job skill level), made plenty of improvements on mechanical factory gizmoes. Please don't let me hamper your learning expeiments, as well as your fun and enjoyment. Best of luck. Happy Holidays.
I got some real improvement by installing a $10 Wolf spring kit, cleaning up the internals (just some polishing with steel wool), and lots of dry-firing. I used the strongest of the springs that came in the kit, so no problems with light strikes on CCI magnum primers etc.
The trigger is just as good or better than any Smith I've tried.
The trigger is just as good or better than any Smith I've tried.