GP 100 cylinder quesion..

T

TonyB

New member
The cylinder on my Gp is really tight...(it does't really spin easily ,not while shooting but when it's open).I never thought much about it ,till a friend commented about it.Is this good(as in the gun is tight to begin with and in great shape)or bad(as in I need to take it apart and clean the inside:cyl. crane)?
I bought this gun used and it's always been like this.It doesn't effect the shooting at all.In fact its tight and shoots wicked accurate......jst wondering if there could be a future problem...thanks:cool:
 
It could become a problem in the future if the gunk that is binding it now gets even harder. Since the cylinder is rotated from very near the center of its axis, it will take more and more effort to pull the trigger as it binds up further. It doesn't have the mechanical advantage of the cylinder radius you have when rotating it by hand. If it becomes hard to rotate even by hand, then reloading manually could become a problem or at least it will take a little longer.

I would try spraying some Gun Scrubber or the like (some folks swear by brake cleaner) down the axle and see if you can get the stuff out. If not, you can tear it down and give it a good cleaning. Actually, you should probably do that anyway since it sounds like it wasn't seriously cleaned by the previous owner.

On the other hand, if it is still binding after cleaning, then the axle is probably bent and some smithing is called for.
 
Experiencing a similar problem, I recently tore down my GP100 cylinder and was amazed by the amount of gunk that had accumulated on the crane axle (lead bullet lube?).

With the crane assembly removed from the frame:

1) Depress and hold the spring-loaded plunger located in the big hole at the top of the crane assembly. This allows the removal of the pin in step 2.

2) Push out the pin that is normally visible on the side of the crane assembly (form inside to outside, should not require much force), releasing the ejector rod, front latch, and allowing you to pull the cylinder off of the crane axle. Watch the little spring/plunger assembly that works the front latch.

You will notice that when the ejector rod is in place, the cylinder is held in place by the two captive ball bearings in the crane axle. Further disassembly of the ejector assembly requires a special tool, but you should be able to get everything cleaned and sprayed out at this point.

Oil lightly, and spin!

BTW, look at the parts diagram before you do this. It's typical Ruger easy. It won't go back together the wrong way, but the parts orientation shown in the diagram makes putting it back together much easier.
 
this is a good discription of removing the cylinder. There is also a discussion of it here:http://www.milesfortis.com/guests/mcump/mc06.htm
Interestingly, you can get the cylinder off the crane without totally taking the revolver apart. All you have to do is remove the grips and then procede as above. The crane latch assembly goes back together in reverse and it you get something in wrong, it just won't go back together. Its. easier than it sounds. .
 
thanks guys...

Gun Scrubber rules!!..yeah it was dirty.I took it apart after I used gun scrubber and was amazed how clean that stuff got it.Although I couldn't actually get the cylinder off the axle I didn't need to.I sprayed the crap out of it w/ gun scrubber and it spins like a dream...Iguess I'll add GS to my regular cleaning routine...A buddy who has many Rugers and is a mechanical whiz said he'll show me how to break it down and get the cylinder off.(I'm not very handy w/ the tools and such)thanks for the advice...:cool:
 
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