Got my first portable target built!

T

taylorce1

New member
Welded it up this morning. I'd like to add some angled braces from the cross bar to the legs to add some more stability. Would have built another one but my mig welder quit working, and had a hard time not burning holes with the stick.

I need to build five more for all the 3/8" AR 500 plate I have. I've got two 10" and four 6" squares. The tailgate chain latches that I bought were a little long for my height but one wrap around the bar fixed that problem.

target.jpg
 
That'll work...simple and easy to fix.

I wouldn't add the braces unless you really think you need them. They'll be closer to the line of fire and more likely to get hit by an errant round. Then,you'd need to burn them off and weld on new ones.

I used steel sawhorses for mine, it's a bitch when you hit a leg or the top crosspiece...unlike the armor plate, the mild steel is like butter.
 
I prefer to hang my plates by welding a loop to the upper corner on the back side. this gives them a natural tilt away from the shooter at the bottom helping deflect the bullets downward. I don't know what you plan to shoot those plates with but most centerfire pistol rounds will cut those chains with a solid hit.
 
These will be used for LR rifle shooting I'm not a pistol guy. I got the 10" plates for shooting past 600 yards. The places I have to shoot allow me to get past K pretty easy. The target stand with plate weighs right at 25 lbs so it is pretty light to transport.
 
I'd weld flat plates to the bottom of those feet. A solid hit with anything over 223 will tilt it over. And depending on the LR distance you are going to use, paint them red or white for better visability. (spray paint is cheap)



Just a suggestion.
Jim
 
Looks good. You could weld two pieces of strap across the bottom to give you the extra stability you are looking for. Is it going to get the rattle can treatment for some increased visibility?

You could weld some bolts to the bottom of the legs if it does have a problem staying upright when being hit. Cut the heads off of some corresponding bolts and thread those into the bolts when you set up the target and jam it in the ground. Remove the bolts when you want to transport the target so you don't poke yourself.

That is a 20lb. brain idea with that loop on the back side Mobuck.
 
That does look good. Paint 'em in a high visibility color so that they don't get lost in the background clutter. We shoot steel out to 300 yards here (that's the farthest line of sight we can get on our range) and it amazes me how a white target can get lost in the background if its shaded. Paint them a bright orange and you should be good to go.
 
I've got a 8" round that hangs from a target frame at the range I shoot at. I usually paint it white with an orange or red bullseye. It is fixed and that range only goes to 375 yards.
 
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