Got a question on the Rossi M92

T

twobit

New member
I am thinking on getting a Rossi Model 92 in 45 LC and am trying to decide on which of the three availble finishes I want. I like the longer barreled models that have the metal end cap on the forearm and the octagon barrels (mainly because I have my great granddads real Winchester 1892 made in 1895 44-40 24").

I'm wanting a clone of my real 1892 that I can shoot often. The finishes available for the Rossi are BLUE, CASE HARDENED, AND BRASS. Here is the question... Will the brass receiver hold up to shooting, or is it something to stay away from like you should stay away from brass framed cap and ball pistols? I really like the looks of the brass.
 
I agree with you zullo74. That is why I stay away from the brass framed BP cap & ball pistols. I'm just wondering of anyone out there has a brass framed rifle like a Yellowboy, Henry, or one of the brass 92 clones that has ever had a strength issue with the brass (or has heard others speak of a strength issue)? Since we are talking about a much larger brass frame compared to the small pistol frame I am wondering if the brass vs. steel is still a problem. Also I would be reloading for this rifle as I do my Uberti Cimarron 45LC Artillery model. I might use a warmer load for the rifle, but not the maximum published loads.
 
I went for the casehardened w/ a 20in bbl.
Click to expand...

Me too. It's an outstanding rifle. I did not know that they made one in brass. Is that something new or have I just not been paying attention?

For what it's worth, Henry has been cranking out brass-framed rifles for quite a few years and I haven't heard any complaints about the receivers. I also seem to recall a discussion a while back about the difference between a brass framed revolver and a brass framed rifle. As I recall, the consensus was that a brass rifle should not be a problem.
 
Those of you with the CASE HARDENED.... is it working out to be a good lasting durable finish? Some companies have good case hardened and some have poor case hardened.
 
The finish on mine looks like it did when it was new. I shoot it every week from the beginning of April until the end of October in metallic silhouette matches - about 100 rounds of .357 each match. I try to keep care of the rifle, but after a couple of years, it's got a few little scratches in the stock (which is some sort of weird mystery wood).

As soon as I saw your post about the brass frame, I scampered over to galleryofguns.com and took a look. It's purty!
 
I have a case-hardened Rossi '92 and a '66 Yellowboy (brass). In 45LC, you're not going to have any problem unless you super-load the rounds. Steel is harder than brass, true, but the original '66 did just fine with the pistol caliber rounds it was meant to digest.....and so would yours.

The development of the '92 by Winchester was an attempt to incorporate the greater pressures of the newer rounds, calibers, and powders becoming available.

I have no problems with either of my rifles. Pick what you like and what works for you.
 
The brass frame Rossi, Henry, and 1866 copies all have to be able to stand up to standard, off the shelf factory loads in whatever caliber they are made in. They are fine as long as you don't try to turn it into a magnum rifle. That is, NO HOT LOADs.
 
I wonder which brass that the Rossi 92 with the 'brass' frame is made of? There are MANY different alloys of brass.....

Brass types

1. DZR brass is dezincification resistant brass with a small percentage of arsenic.
2. Gilding metal is the softest type of brass commonly available. An alloy of 95% copper and 5% zinc, gilding metal is typically used for ammunition "jackets", e.g. full metal jacket bullets.
3. High brass contains 65% copper and 35% zinc, has a high tensile strength and is used for springs, screws, and rivets.
4. Leaded brass is an alpha-beta brass with an addition of lead. It has excellent machinability.
5. Lead-free brass as defined by California Assembly Bill AB 1953 contains "not more than 0.25 percent lead content".[10]
6. Low brass is a copper-zinc alloy containing 20% zinc with a light golden color and excellent ductility; it is used for flexible metal hoses and metal bellows.
7. Manganese brass is a brass most notably used in making golden dollar coins in the United States. It contains roughly 70% copper, 29% zinc, and 1.3% manganese.
8. Muntz metal is about 60% copper, 40% zinc and a trace of iron, used as a lining on boats.
9. Nickel brass is composed of 70% copper, 24.5% zinc and 5.5% nickel used to make pound coins in the pound sterling currency.
10. Naval brass, similar to admiralty brass, is 40% zinc and 1% tin.
11. Nordic gold, used in 10, 20 and 50 cts euro coins, contains 89% copper, 5% aluminium, 5% zinc, and 1% tin.
12. Red brass is both an American term for the copper-zinc-tin alloy known as gunmetal, and an alloy which is considered both a brass and a bronze. It typically contains 85% copper, 5% tin, 5% lead, and 5% zinc. Red brass is also an alternative name for copper alloy C23000, which is composed of 14–16% zinc, 0.05% iron and lead, and the remainder copper. It may also refer to ounce metal, another copper-zinc-tin alloy.
13. Rich low brass (Tombac) is 15% zinc. It is often used in jewelry applications.
14. Tonval brass (also called CW617N or CZ122 or OT58) is a copper-lead-zinc alloy. It is not recommended for seawater use, being susceptible to dezincification.
15. White brass contains more than 50% zinc and is too brittle for general use. The term may also refer to certain types of nickel silver alloys as well as Cu-Zn-Sn alloys with high proportions (typically 40%+) of tin and/or zinc, as well as predominantly zinc casting alloys with copper additive.
16. Yellow brass is an American term for 33% zinc brass.
17. Admiralty brass contains 30% zinc, and 1% tin which inhibits dezincification in many environments.
18. Aich's alloy typically contains 60.66% copper, 36.58% zinc, 1.02% tin, and 1.74% iron. Designed for use in marine service owing to its corrosion resistance, hardness and toughness. A characteristic application is to the protection of ships' bottoms, but more modern methods of cathodic protection have rendered its use less common. Its appearance resembles that of gold.
19. Alpha brasses with less than 35% zinc, are malleable, can be worked cold, and are used in pressing, forging, or similar applications. They contain only one phase, with face-centered cubic crystal structure.
20. Prince's metal or Prince Rupert's metal is a type of alpha brass containing 75% copper and 25% zinc. Due to its beautiful yellow color, it is used as an imitation of gold. The alloy was named after Prince Rupert of the Rhine.
21. Alpha-beta brass (Muntz metal), also called duplex brass, is 35–45% zinc and is suited for hot working. It contains both α and β' phase; the β'-phase is body-centered cubic and is harder and stronger than α. Alpha-beta brasses are usually worked hot.
22. Aluminium brass contains aluminium, which improves its corrosion resistance. It is used for seawater service and also in Euro coins (Nordic gold).
23. Arsenical brass contains an addition of arsenic and frequently aluminium and is used for boiler fireboxes.
24. Beta brasses, with 45–50% zinc content, can only be worked hot, and are harder, stronger, and suitable for casting.
25. Cartridge brass is a 30% zinc brass with good cold working properties. Used for ammunition cases.
26. Common brass, or rivet brass, is a 37% zinc brass, cheap and standard for cold working.
 
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I have the blued M92 in .45 Colt. Just got it a couple months ago, but my purpose for it was to mate up with my Blackhawk in .45 Colt and digest the same +P loads for stalking deer. So far I'm pushing a 260 gr WFN hardcast at ~1270 out of the pistol and close to 1800 out of the rifle.

I know your stated purpose doesn't include this level of loading, but if you ever think you might want to load heavy for it later you'd definitely want to avoid the brass.

I must say that so far I have been very happy with the Rossi. Some folks complain of a gritty feel to the action, but it's every bit as slick and smooth as my Marlin 1894c in .357.

Whichever way you choose, good luck!
 
Which ever finish I get, and I dont know yet cause that brass really is a looker, I know the gun won't hold a candle to my real 1892 44-40. It is nice to know that the Rossi case hardened style holds up over time. My real 1892 is now 117 years old and the action is smooth as melted butter. I still shoot it occasionally, it is accurate, but it is a family treasure and I want an everyday "stunt double" for it. Here is a shot of the old girl. Great grandaddy carried it as a saddle gun beginning 1895. He spent several decades in a saddle working ranches in SW Texas and from the scars on the stock this riflle was with him. It has eight notches on the other side of the forearm that represent men killed. Grandpa told me those were 'notches of men that needed killin'! so his daddy did what was needed. It was the Texas/Mexico frontier border near Del Rio TX of the 1890's after all! Note the weathered oil finished walnut stock. That Rossi mystery wood will never be that purdy. If old guns could talk, what tales they would tell! The metal has a nice brown original patina.
 

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Good choice Hardcase, we'e obviously men of taste and wisdom LOL!! I shoot a 255 RNFP "Keith type" bullet with 8.5g of Unique. I have no idea what the fps is, but it shoot's POA at 100yds but anything after 20 or so rounds, you've earned a shoulder ache in the morning.
 
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