I've never reloaded before but as I get older and get more into shooting frequently, I feel that its a good idea to start as I can shoot more because of less bullet costs and achieve more precision when shooting. I want to get into competition shooting, so target shooting is what i'm looking for, not hunting. The competitions in my area are typically 200-300yd and 500-600yd. I was thinking maybe .243, .270, 7mm-08, .308 or maybe 6.5 creedmore. I want something thats gonna be cheap to reload so I can practice a lot.
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Good long range cartridge to reload for 600yds
- Thread starter Mstangret
- Start date
I shoot 6.5 creedmoor. My reloads are about 55 cents a piece. Not counting brass, and not using match primers.
308 would probably be cheaper and just as effective at 600. Brass is more available, and you can get lapua brass(soon to come to the 6.5cm) which is hands down the best.
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308 would probably be cheaper and just as effective at 600. Brass is more available, and you can get lapua brass(soon to come to the 6.5cm) which is hands down the best.
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m&p45acp10+1
New member
Do you have a rifle already?
What is the level of shooting you have done?
How many shots do you want to go through a week/month?
What is your budget for this?
Now for going off of what you have stated so far. I would pick .243 for a couple of reasons. One of those is you can buy ammo for it anywhere there is a store that sells hunting ammo. Components can be fount without too much problem online. Though being able to buy some store bought stuff in a pinch without breaking the bank is nice form of back up. Also as you shoot you can save the brass.
Start with the shorter ranges. Walk before you run. When that is not a challenge anymore then move out farther.
Oh and if it were a person close to me asking that question would try to help them find a place to get some classes for shooting at the longer distances. It saves a ton in the long run on ammo wasted by shooting with bad habits, and poor form. Learn to do things the right way, and how to get that level of repeatability down first.
What is the level of shooting you have done?
How many shots do you want to go through a week/month?
What is your budget for this?
Now for going off of what you have stated so far. I would pick .243 for a couple of reasons. One of those is you can buy ammo for it anywhere there is a store that sells hunting ammo. Components can be fount without too much problem online. Though being able to buy some store bought stuff in a pinch without breaking the bank is nice form of back up. Also as you shoot you can save the brass.
Start with the shorter ranges. Walk before you run. When that is not a challenge anymore then move out farther.
Oh and if it were a person close to me asking that question would try to help them find a place to get some classes for shooting at the longer distances. It saves a ton in the long run on ammo wasted by shooting with bad habits, and poor form. Learn to do things the right way, and how to get that level of repeatability down first.
jwrowland77
New member
.223 up to .308 and practically everything in between. I've shot matches (600yd F-Class) with .223 bolt rifle and did fairly well. Most the time I shoot .308.
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addressing what you said m&p45, I don't have a rifle in the calibers that I have mentioned. I do Have a howa 1500 in .223 that is my go to practice gun for shooting at 100-200yds. I know its not the fanciest of rifles but it gets the job done. I haven't actually shot past 300yds due to the fact that I don't have a range that goes that far that close to me, but i'd also like to point out that i'm not looking into jumping into competition shooting tomorrow. I completely agree with you that until I feel that I have mastered shooting at closer ranges (100-200yd) that I shouldn't even look at shooting further and thats what I intend to do. I just wanted to see what people recommended as a good practice caliber for the 500-600yd range when I feel i'm ready to stretch out the distance that i'm shooting at when I finally go that route
firewrench044
New member
I recommend 308 or 223
( when you enter a match, F class would be a good class for
starting in match shooting )
( If I remember correctly you need a 223 or 308 for F class )
Also find and go to the range where you will be shooting
600 yards, and watch a match and ask questions
( most (not all ) competitors are very helpful )
You will see how its done, equipment needed, types of guns used
( bypods, spotting scopes, shooting mats, marking targets and
scoring targets and a lot of other things you can not even imagine )
( when you enter a match, F class would be a good class for
starting in match shooting )
( If I remember correctly you need a 223 or 308 for F class )
Also find and go to the range where you will be shooting
600 yards, and watch a match and ask questions
( most (not all ) competitors are very helpful )
You will see how its done, equipment needed, types of guns used
( bypods, spotting scopes, shooting mats, marking targets and
scoring targets and a lot of other things you can not even imagine )
"Mstangret, what is the twist rate of your Howa? if it's 1:12, I'd be looking for a new rifle for longer range."
I have a pair of HOWA .223 rifles(one sporter and one HB) and neither will group under 2" with any bullet over 55 grains I've tried. In fact, the sporter gives best accuracy with the 40-50 grainers.
I have a pair of HOWA .223 rifles(one sporter and one HB) and neither will group under 2" with any bullet over 55 grains I've tried. In fact, the sporter gives best accuracy with the 40-50 grainers.
It's no small investment to get into reloading these days. Quality equipment isn't cheap and it seems like every time you turn around there's something else you just have to purchase. In addition to equipment, it seems the cost of components jumps everytime you restock. Availability is also an issue in some cases; just when you get your "recipe" down, the powder goes missing.
If I were starting off today, I would choose 308, 223 or 6.5 Creedmoor and buy factory, match ammo. It's available, much of it good quality and compared to good quality hunting ammo, not overly expensive.
Then I would save my brass and look for a buddy, mentor type, that would let me reload on his equipment and guide me until I had the knowledge to ease into it.
If I were starting off today, I would choose 308, 223 or 6.5 Creedmoor and buy factory, match ammo. It's available, much of it good quality and compared to good quality hunting ammo, not overly expensive.
Then I would save my brass and look for a buddy, mentor type, that would let me reload on his equipment and guide me until I had the knowledge to ease into it.
JeepHammer
Moderator
*Just my 2 cents worth, take it for what you paid for it*
The 'Rifle' is the least expensive, or to be precise, the barrel.
Most guys to through a bunch of rifles at first, then they just see a gun smith and/or rebarrel since they don't want the cost of fitting a new rifle, trigger job, ect.
If you are you are going to get 'Kicked' 1,000 to 2,500 times a week, don't be one bit afrade to saw off the stock to fit you and install a recoil reducing butt pad!
The older I get the more I like 'Gel' butt pads!
You are looking at a good spotting scope & stand.
The $68 versions aren't going to do it.
Top end spotters are not cheap.
If you are going optics, do a LOT of research!
Not all optics are created equal, and the prices aren't cheap.
Put money in SOLID rings/mounts, you will be suprised how knocked around, what weather you will be in.
If you start throwing 2,500 rounds a week down range, a provressive reloader is a good idea, there goes $1,500 to $2,500...
You will like the time savings with progressive over any manual.
Unless you have a sponsor that provides ammo, reloading is pretty much a must.
I suggest you find someone that can teach you how to shoot long range.
Its a learned skill, and its a perishable skill...
Working out things like keeping the rifle square, keeping your body inline with the rifle, ect is something you need a coach or video for since you can't see your posture while shooting.
If you don't have an accessable 600-800 yard range handy,
Consider finding a farmer you can lease from.
Locally, its 200 yards for public range,
I use a fence row for 600 yard practice.
Doesn't give you the noise competition will have, but good to work things out.
If you are reloading, the caliber you pick isn't a huge deal,
But I stick with calibers that have a HUGE selection of ammo available about anywhere,
As above, .223 Rem & .308 Win have HUGE selections.
Others can be quite limited in a lot of places.
When you go to shoots, look at who is winning and what they are running.
Usually, half will be running the same stuff, the other half will be mixed.
The 'Rifle' is the least expensive, or to be precise, the barrel.
Most guys to through a bunch of rifles at first, then they just see a gun smith and/or rebarrel since they don't want the cost of fitting a new rifle, trigger job, ect.
If you are you are going to get 'Kicked' 1,000 to 2,500 times a week, don't be one bit afrade to saw off the stock to fit you and install a recoil reducing butt pad!
The older I get the more I like 'Gel' butt pads!
You are looking at a good spotting scope & stand.
The $68 versions aren't going to do it.
Top end spotters are not cheap.
If you are going optics, do a LOT of research!
Not all optics are created equal, and the prices aren't cheap.
Put money in SOLID rings/mounts, you will be suprised how knocked around, what weather you will be in.
If you start throwing 2,500 rounds a week down range, a provressive reloader is a good idea, there goes $1,500 to $2,500...
You will like the time savings with progressive over any manual.
Unless you have a sponsor that provides ammo, reloading is pretty much a must.
I suggest you find someone that can teach you how to shoot long range.
Its a learned skill, and its a perishable skill...
Working out things like keeping the rifle square, keeping your body inline with the rifle, ect is something you need a coach or video for since you can't see your posture while shooting.
If you don't have an accessable 600-800 yard range handy,
Consider finding a farmer you can lease from.
Locally, its 200 yards for public range,
I use a fence row for 600 yard practice.
Doesn't give you the noise competition will have, but good to work things out.
If you are reloading, the caliber you pick isn't a huge deal,
But I stick with calibers that have a HUGE selection of ammo available about anywhere,
As above, .223 Rem & .308 Win have HUGE selections.
Others can be quite limited in a lot of places.
When you go to shoots, look at who is winning and what they are running.
Usually, half will be running the same stuff, the other half will be mixed.
If you have a .223 and only plan to shoot out to 600 yards, I might just stick with the .223. For hitting targets out to 600, the .223 will do anything a caliber with a large rifle primer will do, and for less cost and recoil.
That said, your current .223 might not be up to the task of shooting 69-80 grain bullets due to twist.
That said, your current .223 might not be up to the task of shooting 69-80 grain bullets due to twist.
boondocker385
New member
If your current rifle won't shoot one ragged hole at 100 yards with match ammo than you will need a better rifle. Long range shooting is a combination of equipment and shooter. Get educated on what it takes by reading. There are a number of good books out there that cover everything from basics to equipment selection and more
The equipment is a function of $$$$ for the most part. There are good rifles to be had at least than $1000. A savage with a bull barrel is probably the best off the shelf available for finding a "shooter" but there are others. You will need two expensive pieces of glass (scope and spotting scope. invest in some 6", 12" and 18" steel plates for feed back. A shooting log and a bunch of ammo....you will need to find what your rifle shoots best. For the money, stick with 308 as there is plenty of great factory ammo available.
I am having a brainfart on books, Google is your friend. Don't believe everything you see on the internet.....
The equipment is a function of $$$$ for the most part. There are good rifles to be had at least than $1000. A savage with a bull barrel is probably the best off the shelf available for finding a "shooter" but there are others. You will need two expensive pieces of glass (scope and spotting scope. invest in some 6", 12" and 18" steel plates for feed back. A shooting log and a bunch of ammo....you will need to find what your rifle shoots best. For the money, stick with 308 as there is plenty of great factory ammo available.
I am having a brainfart on books, Google is your friend. Don't believe everything you see on the internet.....
There are "target" rifles and bullets readily available in 243, 308, and 6.5 Creedmoor. Not saying you can't use 7-08 or 270, but life will be easier with one of the others. To an extent the 223 is a possibility, but it is stretching things to take it to 600 yards.
Right now the 6.5 Creedmoor is the hot round that everyone is going to. That is the way I'd go if I didn't already have several 308's. Which ain't a bad choice either.
Right now the 6.5 Creedmoor is the hot round that everyone is going to. That is the way I'd go if I didn't already have several 308's. Which ain't a bad choice either.
jwrowland77
New member
Since a couple people asked, My Howa 1500 has a 1 in 9 twist
You can definitely run up to the 75gr Hornady bthp Match bullet. I have a 1:9 Savage Axis heavy barrel that they run great in. Use those bullets in my f-class load. Run great.
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jwrowland77 said:You can definitely run up to the 75gr Hornady bthp Match bullet. I have a 1:9 Savage Axis heavy barrel that they run great in. Use those bullets in my f-class load. Run great.
Maybe, maybe not. 1:9 is marginal at best for that length bullet. I've got a Savage 1:9 that keyholes the Hornady 75gr BTHP and Sierra 77gr, but my 1:8 AR15 has no problems with them. Depends on altitude, temperature, and velocity.
Was shooting my .243s from 300-1050 yesterday with a friend who was shooting his .223. Tack driver at 100-300, 600 pretty good, but after that he struggled. At 1000 yards, out of 10 bullets, he had two that tumbled. He is shooting a JPRifle with Sierra MatchKings. He is going to try the new tipped in 69 and 77 and see if he can not keep them flying straight.
It is always windy where we shoot and the transonic is rough. We are sure if he can keep them supersonic, he will have good groups.
For comparison, my .243 (which prints 1/3" groups indoors at 100 yards) was printing just under 3" at 300 and 12" at 1000 yesterday, in 5-15 mph shifty winds.
It is always windy where we shoot and the transonic is rough. We are sure if he can keep them supersonic, he will have good groups.
For comparison, my .243 (which prints 1/3" groups indoors at 100 yards) was printing just under 3" at 300 and 12" at 1000 yesterday, in 5-15 mph shifty winds.