Good Decapping Die for 223

N

Northof50

Moderator
Hello all:

New to the forum, but more than 30 years experience reloading pistol, rifle and wildcat. Recently purchased my first AR, but am have a damn difficult time depriming cases.

Picked up spent brass from the range, cleaned them, lubed them and proceeded to but the first pin on a military case. OK lesson learned - INSPECT ALL CASES.

But, proceeded to bust 2 more pins on standard cases [WW & R-P]. The dies are an older [1970's] Lymann.

I've used, both, my RockChucker single stage and Pro2000 progressive.

Just wondering if there is an additional step for 223 of which I am unaware, or a stronger pin? I've have Hornady and RCBS dies without issue.

Thanks for any help.

Rick
 
I use regular old Lee dies and have no issues. My first thought was you got some berdan primed cases (if there is such a thing for 223) but if you ran a WW case then that’s not it.

There are no extra steps for 223 vs other rifle cases. Maybe your case is going into the die crooked?
 
2 different presses

Thanks. I didn't think there was a different step, but really am at a loss. I thought, perhaps, it was the Lymann products. As written, I had the same experience on both a progressive and single stage presses.

I do notice some traditional primers are crimped in. Maybe the crimped primers eventually cause stress? But, the pins broke [literally] within minutes of receiving them from Midway.
 
The crimps aren’t strong enough to bend a pin with the amount of force you’re exerting. Most of my cases are range pickups and are crimped primers, and I’ve not had this issue.

I’d pick up a new die - something is likely wrong with the die.
 
Have you checked to see that the decapping stem is properly centered so that the pin will enter the flash hole? If not centered, the pin could be way off to one side and attempting to punch through solid brass, causing the breaks.
 
I have had 2 similar issues...

1) berdan primed cases will destroy your pin before you can stop pulling, IME....good to inspect head stamps first!

2) some crimped primers are strong enough to bend or damage the pin somehow, IME......flash holes might be off center also...

So, I use the Lee decapping die before cleaning....the reason for the Lee is that after the first pin breaks, you can buy replacement pins by the 3 pack on eBay! Something about that die though, I'm still on the first pin!
 
I'm believe friends don't let friends buy Lee but their decapping die is the exception. They're cheap and work well but you should still have some spare pins on hand; they're not indestructible.
 
pin

How far down is your decapping pin set?

It should be set so that it sticks out as little as possible but still function reliably.
 
I only have one resizing die for 223/556 so that is all I can speak on but my small base 5.56 dies set from RCBS has resizied many thousands of millitary cases and I have yet to break a single pin. (now that I say that....)

I have a small base set for 300 blackout that has also processed thousands of mil spec primers without issue.

might be worth trying a new die...
 
I believe friends don't let friends buy Lee but their decapping die is the exception.
Click to expand...

We agree on that fully! Their non-FC taper crimp dies work well after you replace the nut too. Hornady nut, of course!
 
Not a fan of the Lee decap die. I've broken too many pins. The best I found is Dillon's Universal decap die. I tend to break less pins for whatever reason.

I do like Lee's FC Die and use it on most of my AR reloads.
 
Northof50,

Welcome to the forum.

The small decapping pins always have the potential for the chuck to come loose and let the tip wiggle around and miss the flash hole and snap. I've tightened them with pliers and taken other steps like using green (removable) Loctite on them to stop that, and these things help.

The second issue is having the right shell holder. The different makers use different dimensions, as you can tell from this table in which the same holder used for two different cases by one maker sometimes don't match what another maker uses. You want a shell holder that's not too tight to let an off-center flash hole move over into better alignment with the pin, but not so loose that you constantly miss the flash hole. If the Lyman isn't giving you the right amount of slop, try a Lee.

These days, for all my rifle cases I use a Lee decapper that is left permanently on a small Lee press. I want to decap them before I clean them to get the crud out of the primer pockets, and I want them clean before I resize them to keep grit from scratching up the die. If you don't have an extra press, though, you might like the Lee hand decapping system and a small hammer and a work surface. The principle advantage it has over a press and die is you find the flash hole with the pin before tapping it out with the hammer, so you never have a pin alignment problem except with the most extreme off-center cases where the hole is at the edge of the pocket. In that case, you'll notice the problem before you tap.
 
I broke my first Lee decapping pin the other day on some military brass and after purchasing the pin found a recommendation for the place below and their stuff is exceptional been running that and have not had a problem. LIFETIME WARRANTY

https://mightyarmory.com

This Die is outstanding on all presses including 1050 Automated Drive Systems

Precision CNC Machined, Extremely Tight Thread Tolerances, Perfect vertical alignment. Only the best materials available have been selected to manufacture this Die. Including Aero Space Anodizing. 

Heat Treated 2,Part Rifle Barrel Steel Punch shaft and rolled forged threaded Pin.

Lifetime Warrantied. (see warranty)

Standard .070 Pin or (see products list Lapua .055 Pin available)

MPN # 20105

This is the finest Decapping Die ever made. A precision tool for all reloading presses. “Our # 1 Selling Die” will last a you a lifetime of trouble free use.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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I second Dufus recommendation. The Branford arsenal tool is great. if not I would use a lee universal decapping die. If the pin breaks it is easy and inexpensive to replace .
 
I keep an old speaker magnet tied to a length of rope. I pull it through my range pick up brass. This helps to get the steel case berdan primed stuff out.

Though I have also had some pins broken by badly off center flash holes. I have a Hornady sizing die. With about 10 spare decapping pins. Otherwise I used the Lee collet die to deprime a large amount that were going to be wet tumbled. It worked. I just went to the Hornady as it was simple, and easy to replace the pins, and I picked up 10 extras in a trade.
 
Thank You All

I appreciate all the replies and will look into the Lee decapper. As written, I've been doing this for 30 years and have never had the issue. After my first [original] pin broke, I ordered a replacement from Midway. Literally, within the first 25 rounds the pin broke. I then ordered the complete Lymann die with carbide expander pin AND switched to my single stage RockChucker. The pin lasted about the same time. 3 pins - 2 loaders - 2 shell plates. The 2 purchased pins from Miday have been sent back to them. The shell plate for the RCBS system is a #10 for the 223 case. Have it for the single and progressive.

I will also check the alignment of the pin to the die, as well as the overall pin length that protrudes from the bottom. I have noticed, that regardless of the reloading system, the priming/depriming is achilleas of every system. In reloading mass is your friend. When dealing with a 3 grain component, issue abound.

My pin may have been too far out. I find if not out far enough, the primers don't exit the case, or go down the exit tube - indicating there must be some flex in to the pin, as it certainly looks like it is out far enough to clear the case and shell plate.

Again, thanks.

Rick
 
FWIW, I've processed thousands of military .223 cases with my Lee dies, and have never broken a pin. Must be in the technique...
 
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